fabulousfrankie

---------------- On 1/1/2004 7:16:53 PM dbb wrote: Hey gang... I'm just setting up and tuning my theater. The Klipsch manual that came with my sub was very minimalistic with regard to instructions. What's there assumes the reader already has an intimate understanding of crossover concepts, signal levels, etc., and therefore how the toggle switches should be set. I've read the posts I could find on setup, but am still somewhat confused on the best sub setting, with respect to my Onkyo TX-NR900, (which I've set to 80Hz for the crossover). The sub has a rubber-like adjustment wheel on the side, which is not even mentioned in the manual - I have no idea what it's for... I guess I can just play around with different settings until I find a combination that sounds good to me - I like a nice, tight bass, without being boomy. Also, on the RSW-10, is there some type of grill available to cover the rear-facing speaker? It only came with one for the front. My concern is not one of aesthetics, but for protection. I just don't like the idea of an exposed speaker. Thanks!---------------- Here's a couple links: http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/setup/loudspeakers/crawling_for_bass.php http://www.adireaudio.com/tech_papers/sub_setup.htm I recommend setting all speakers to small and sub to yes or on(whatever the Onkyo says). Turn the crossover to it's highest setting(or disable if possible) so it doesn't interfere with the crossover in your receiver. Next you can set the phase, you'll want to adjust it to the position which gives the most bass at the listening position, it's best if you an sit at the main seating position and have someone else adjust it(for a better but slightly more complicated method see the 2nd link above). After this is done, then you can adjust the subwoofer to the same level as the rest of your Klipsch(preferably with a setup dvd and SPL meter).

---------------- On 12/31/2003 6:03:24 AM rdfish1 wrote: I followed the SVS manual which said set sub at appx 6 db above the rest of your speakers (if spkrs are at 75 db, set sub at 81 when volume is at reference). However, I have found the base/sub to be less impressive unless i set it even higher. I know to a large extent it is personal preference, but I am interested in knowing how many of you set the sub relative to the other speakers when watching movies and/or listening to music. By the way, my new svs is the 20-39 pci Thx. ---------------- Where does SVS say to calibrate the sub 6dB hot? As a starting point, the sub should always be calibrated to the same level as your other speakers, then you can adjust to taste. Are you using a disc to calibrate or your receiver's test tones?

You also could have mistakenly looked at the 16-46PC Plus which is around that price.

---------------- On 12/31/2003 1:44:16 PM Manuel Delaflor wrote: I couldn't let it pass, it costed me 200 bucks and everything I found on the Net indicated it was a good sub even at 400-500 bucks (its original price). Im complementing my HT set with it, and it sounds amazingly good down to its rated 32Hz, from there it falls like a brick (about -10dB at about 25Hz), but I have to tell that it really sounds amazingly good down to those 32Hz. After good possitioning and calibration it was the best I could do without expending the big bucks (nor working in another DIY giant sub, which I only use for my two channel system). Im very happy with my finding, I might try the RABOS system later. ---------------- Great sub at a great price...I used to own one, then two, then one IL120, then two IL120's, then I tried Infinity's HPS-1000(great sub). I used to recommend them quite a bit but since they're not made any they're getting hard to find. The RABOS can make a significant difference in SQ and it's easy to use using Infinity's online calculator. I only wish they would have made it like a normal parametric eq instead of having to buy their kit to use it, regardless it is worth the money. I sold mine but I snagged one with a damaged corner off ebay for only $165 shipped, even though I'm used to much more expensive subwoofers, the Infinity Interlude subs don't dissappoint one bit. One interesting note on the IL100s vs the new Alpha 1200s, Tom Nousaine tested both of these and the low end output of the IL100s spanked the bigger and more expensive 12" Alpha 1200s which only managed 1.5dB more in the 25-63Hz ave. Infinity Alpha 1200s 105dB / 25hz~85dB Infinity IL100s 103.5dB / 20hz~79.2dB__25hz~94dB

Where are you located? If I can find someone to buy my surrounds, I'd be interested in yours.

Here's what happens when I get bored....

---------------- On 12/30/2003 12:24:52 PM tankhokie wrote: frankie, so does the customer buy the motor seperate and rig their own cone/panel? or is this a new motor that a driver manufacturer might use in a new line of subs? i can't imagine someone trying to build their own cone...i keep seeing this thing attached to a big square piece of plywood that is painted black and sits in the corner of your ht room with caution tape around it ---------------- No, there's no building a woofer yourself. Towards the bottom of the link, it says: These motors are semi-stock items. We have parts to build several up in stock, but don't actually build them until they are ordered. Voice coil configurations, diaphragms, suspensions, all those are full custom units, so you can spec out what you ideally want. So basically, they'll be able to custom build a woofer to your needs. Does anyone else picture a 4'5" elf carrying a motor structure as big as he is?

Congratulations on the two new family members.

---------------- On 12/29/2003 8:25:21 PM tankhokie wrote: i am new to this motor stuff...all i could gather in my reading was that it would act like the magnet and voicecoil assembly for a really big speaker?? ---------------- Yup that's it. When people talk about the motor structure of simply motor of a speaker that's what they're talking about. While it is pricey, I don't really think it's all too bad for what you get.

Sounds like a great sub...besides the air leaks. I think it would be interesting to see FR plots of the VTF-3, Tempest, and Tumult. Another cool thing would be to get all subs calibrated and play popular bassy dvd's and record what levels you're reaching with each sub...only if you can put all subs in the same location.

---------------- On 12/28/2003 9:38:45 AM Q-Man wrote: Frankie, Thanks for the DD-18 review. It makes it sound like this servo and equalization is the only way to go if your into getting the best sound out of a subwoofer. There is one for sale on ebay right now for $2,995.00. That's $2,000.00 below cost. I'm very tempted to do it. ---------------- Well servo is just one way to get low distortion so I wouldn't say it's the only way to go. Other's more knowledgable than me say that distortion in subs isn't really noticeable until it gets to 10% but I don't have any equipment to measure myself so I can't really back that up(I'm working on getting some). For the eq, I think every sub should have one. After seeing the effects a single band of eq(from Infinity's RABOS) had on sound quality I was really surprised, it led me to get a BFD and I'll never have a subwoofer without eq again. The Velo's eq system is easier to use than anything out there but now that I know how to use the BFD it's not too bad(but still not as easy as Velo's system). I'm going to be looking into a new eq coming from av123.com called R-DES.

Do you mean $600 alltogether on a sub or $600 plus what they're giving you for the Boston sub? If it's $600 total, does the Velo CHT-15 come within your budget?

---------------- On 12/27/2003 6:16:27 PM TheEAR wrote: For the Digital Drive subs from velodyne do not expect any gain in SPL.Its a gain in linearity and accuracy,direct result of the analyser/EQ onboard.The Digital Drive are little 1812's in disguise.If you want maximum bass quality YES there is a clear gain,want more power over the HGS forget it. And Velodyne is asking mucho for these,I may still get the DD12 and use it as correction setup device. Good Lord what did I do to deserve sub human sickness? ---------------- I think you'll be pleasantly surprised to know that you're incorrect...it gives you more of a reason to add one of these to your arsenal. This comes straight from Bruce Hall(President/CEO of Velodyne): ---------------- all DDs go up to 1.75" peak to peak ---------------- ---------------- All other things being equal, we measured the DD-12 at 2.5 dB louder than the HGS-12. We measured the DD-15 at 4 dB louder than the HGS-15. ---------------- I believe the HGS subs were capable of 1.5" peak to peak. Also on the gaining linearity here's some more info from him on how the servo compares on the different settings on the DD and how it compares to the HGS subs: ---------------- The theater/music setting controls the servo. The theatrical setting (setting 1), causes the cone to be corrected at 6,000 times per second. The music setting (setting 8) causes the full 15,800 times per second correction. The settings in between control the servo in between accordingly. As a reference, HGS corrected at around 3,500 times per second, so even at the lowest setting, the servo is still doing quite a bit of cone correction. ---------------- The new DD subs seem to be pretty awesome, also Dr John Johnson reviewed one and he gave lots of good objective data: Veloddyne DD-18 review

---------------- On 12/26/2003 8:22:50 AM rdfish1 wrote: Marantz 7200 105 watts, HT receiver with KG4's in front, bose acoustimass 5 rear and KV3 center (on its way) with a SVS 20-39pci in the corner. I purchased sound level meter from radioshack as suggested by svs and set each speaker at 75 db when the receiver is at Zero (is this considered 'reference'?). However, i set the subwoofer at 82 db. To accomplish this, the svs "gain" is set exactly at 1/2 and the Marantz sub channel at negative 6 db. Is this the right way to do it? Should I avoid turning the svs gain past 1/2? That's what is sounded like in the directions but i wasn't certain. When the center channel arrives, should it be set at 75 db too? After setting each channel at 75 db, my unit is not as loud, but i guess this is because I was exceeding reference under the previous uncalibrated settings. Any other suggestions are appreciated. ---------------- What ever the volume is when you set all speakers to 75dB(or 85dB if you're using Avia) is considered reference level. The way you're setting the subwoofer level is fine, don't worry about where the gain on the SVS is as long as the meter reads what you want it to. Also don't forget to set the meter to C-weighted and slow. I also second hwatkins suggestion to set all speakers to small and the sub to yes or on(what ever your receiver says). Before you calibrate, you need to set the phase, to do this just set it to the point that gives you the most bass at the main listening position(it's preferable to use warble tones at the crossover freq of the Marantz). You should set all speakers inlcuding the sub to 75dB(or 85dB depending on which disc you use) as a starting point. After that you can adjust it to taste, most people usually set the sub a little higher, I also turn my surrounds up by a dB. Also be sure to experiment with different sub locations if possible. Your room will have the biggest impact on how the sub sounds. One method I found that works well is "crawling for bass".

Hsu Research has some new lower priced offering that I would look into first before going with the PB12 or KSW12. You should also consider the JBL S120, it can be found under $400 online and it's pretty good for the money.

It looks impressive and I'm sure it sounds even better.

---------------- On 12/24/2003 7:33:55 PM hammerin wrote: I just bought a pair of KLF 20's from jazman, should be here next week.I'm going to check into biamping them,I plan on running the low's with a pair of kenwood L-07M monoblocks, but i need suggestions on what to run the high's with??? would like to try tube's, seem's from what i gather on this forum tubes would tame a little of the harshness on these speakers. any thought's???? ---------------- I'm powering some KLF-20's off of 2 channels of my Parasound HCA-855a and I' don't think they're harsh at all.

---------------- On 12/24/2003 6:27:53 PM djk wrote: I hear this is the longest movie made without an intermission. Should I take a bedpan with me or just tape a catheter down my leg? ---------------- On your way to theater just pick up some Depends underwear.

Maybe you're confusing him with Aragon?

---------------- On 12/26/2003 7:11:10 PM tpg wrote: OK, this has been bothering me... I just watched FOTR today and am probably gonna watch Two Towers here in a while, but ok... In FOTR, Boromir dies... he gets shot 3 times with arrows by Orc... correct? And they set him afloat in a canoe with his sword and he goes over the waterfall. Correct? I keep asking if I am correct because I may have the wrong person... OK... So if he dies... how the heck does he come back in the 2nd and 3rd movies? Hopefully someone can enlighten me here... ---------------- I just watched Return of the King last night and I thought it was an awesome movie. I actually didn't like FOTR that much, I thought it was kind of slow. I really like TTT but I think the third part is the best. It's kind of funny because usually I find myself liking 2nd and 3rd parts less and less. Umm...he died and he doesn't come back. Where did you get that he comes back?

---------------- On 12/23/2003 8:26:47 PM space_cowboy wrote: Looking for a new sub in a cheap kinda way. I have an old Kenwood surround sound that may work as an amp for the CS but wonder if another $170 is worth it for the PC. I'm only interested in the basic SVS. $650 for the PC 16-46 is the max, $380 for the CS 25-21 is the min. Anyone have a passive model with outboard amp? The connection seems kinda cheesy, maybe the extra smack for the PC is worth it, I don't know. This will be for movie only. Looking for opinions. Thanks ---------------- The Kenwood receiver would work fine but it wouldn't give you the full potential of the subwoofer. Keep in mind that SVS' don't need much power to really get going, I've powered a DIY sub using the original SVS CS driver(an 18-50CS if you want to go by SVS nomenclature), and a CS Ultra from a 100W Audiosource amp and I was surprised at the levels it could reach. With the DIY sub I was getting levels over 110dB at the listening position(9ft away) in a 1500 cu ft room.

I agree with everything that's been said already, but I just want to point out the importance of that eq. While more bands are preferable a single band can have a significant impact on perceived sound quality by reducing the level of your biggest room induced peak. I just don't think this is stressed enough. It seems like a perfect candidate for you if you mostly use it for music. I've used the Dayton DVC12 in a sealed enclosure and it did a fabulous job music and home theater.

I use weather stripping on the back of my subs to make a good seal.

---------------- On 12/22/2003 8:34:32 AM larrymaher wrote: WOW! Thanks for all the feedback, fellas! Great discussions! I am leaning toward the Sunfire True Signature. OR 2 of the sunfire smaller subs? Which would be better? 1 13" sunfire? OR say 2 of the Junior 9" sunfires? Im guessing 1 of the 13" signatures? Thanks again! ---------------- TheEar would be the best one to tell you how the different cubes compare to each other, but instead of two Juniors I would do two Carver Knight Shadow.

---------------- On 12/20/2003 11:40:01 AM TheEAR wrote: DecibleLvr, The REL Q200E uses a woofer almost identical to the Sunfire Mark II,probably made by the same company too. ---------------- Just curious, have you had the chance to compare it to your Sunfire?