Curious_George

It's a tough call, technically, the owner did not look threatened, which means he did not have to kill the robber. I don't know the laws in Nevada, but if you put yourself into those positions (the robbers), you have to be prepared to get what is given.

The 6Y6G was designed as an "Beam Tetrode". This would indicate that it was designed for audio service, but could also be used in TV sets as well for video. The 6Y6G was used in a lot of table top radios or where only a few watts were needed for audio. The 6V6 was the successor which is also a great tube for a low power SET amp.

I guess the original Little Sweetie was designed for 1 watt or so output. Technically, since the plate dissipation of the 6Y6G/GT is 12.5 watts, you can get 1/4 of that dissipation in output power, which would be 3.125 watts.

I have a PL 4000 as pictured below. I restored the main audio section years ago and now want to finish the other sections. I've been curious how the peak unlimiter and downward expander enhance the music. Overall, not a bad preamp, but it required a lot of TLC. Not a restoration for the faint of heart. Of course it is modified as well. I redesigned the power supply from Zener based to three terminal regulator and the gain IC was changed (but not plug-in compatible, had to cut traces and rewire the PCB) to a more modern low noise type op amp. The 4000 Autocorrelation Preamplifier was a collaboration design by Bob Carver and Bill Skinner. It was designed to expand or decompress the sonics of recorded material. In audio parlance, it's called dynamic headroom. In the midst of all the knobs and toggles was the four channel balance joystick. The 4000 had the capability of controlling up to six components: a tuner, two tape decks, two turntables and an auxiliary input. It had three switched and three unswitched AC plugs. The 4000 was manufactured from 1973 to 1977. It retailed for $600 but the price rose 10 % in 1977. It's still highly sought after today.

Go down to the Ram Sound post. All kind of good info on what fuses to use.

What speakers are you listening to know Dean? I know they were not Klipsch's awhile back or do you swap in different pairs every so often?

I put them in the positive, but technically it could go in either. No difference.

Yes, the Larry King solution would be 2 ~ 2.5 amp fuse for overall listening protection. 3 amp if you really crank it up. Bulb can go in either wire; negative or positive. Since the audio signal is AC, the negative and positive are really only references for speaker polarity / phase.

Yep, it's a graph, but not a great one representing a k-horn. The dip between 5 and 6kHz is likely due to the crossover point [interaction]. It hard to say since we do not know what crossover this graph represents. Trying to EQ this area is not easy and requires measuring equipment and many iterations of changes.

About 0.6ohm in the tweeter circuit yes. I should have clarified that. You can still fuse the main input for overall speaker protection, but the light bulb would be used in place of the Zeners. Works very good for tweeter protection. The 0.6 ohm series resistance should not be audible. Key words there "should not be".

I know this thread is titled "Fuse Recommendations", but a light bulb would work much better. A 561 or 211-2 type automotive bulb. Do a search on the forum.

All may not be as it seems...

It's hard to control quality that way, which they obviously found out very quick. Sounds like a great idea until the Turkey (101) starts flying around.

At least, he should request to lock the thread next.

I've never had a "high-end" preamp, but throughout my audio years I have listened to more equipment than I can remember. One of the main reasons for learning how to design and build my own gear was because I could not afford the "audiophile high-end" gear. I remember listening to a Perreaux preamp decades ago and it did not sound worth a fraction of what it cost. I have two main preamps that I use for listening, testing and evaluation purposes, an NAD 1240 (also have a NAD 1130, which is nearly Identical) and a Kenwood C1. These units are op-amp based and have allowed me swap out just about every op-amp made for comparison purposes. The NAD and Kenwood have very different designs, which is one reason I have these two units. The NAD has a discrete transistor fully regulated power supply, the Kenwood has a full-wave voltage doubler Zener regulated power supply. These units have been refurbished with fresh electrolytic caps and resistors matched to within 1% in critical areas such as tone control circuits. I prefer bi-polar input type op-amps vs Bi-FET's. The bi-polar's are much quieter usually. Despite their relatively low cost, these preamps add almost zero coloration when placed in the system. I have tested a high output CD player with a passive control into my system and A-B'd the difference inserting the NAD/Kenwood preamps into the system; I can't tell a difference. I have to guess what is or is not in the system. I gravitate toward using the NAD more because it has an excellent low frequency EQ function as well as a very nice loudness function that boosts low & high frequencies. I also have a tube preamp I made based on a 6V6GT with cathode follower. I also have a Phase Linear Series 1 4000 preamp, that I restored and use occasionally. It is mainly for nostalgic purposes.

I see Carver has not lost his marketing edge... RPM: Reference Preamp Model.

None of those have a "loudness" function, which to me is very effective at low listening levels. Although I love tubes, I would go with the Parasound if those are the choices you have narrowed it down to.

Hope you recover quickly. Sounds like a good time to bing watch a series on Netflix or Prime video.

Make sure you don't pack any contraband. Do some research of what contraband might be in countries you are traveling to. For example, in Singapore, chewing gum is banned.

I have 4" casters underneath my ported 1974 LaScala's and they sound great. Before the casters, the bass was somewhat feeble even after the port mod. Decoupling from the floor in my case made a huge difference.

https://www.roomeqwizard.com/ Room acoustic measurements

Geoff, do you have REW to make measurements?

No doubt…

Good to know that he is well.