Steve Phillips

The amps were supplied by a different vendor from the series I to II Also the feet were attached a bit differently.

The picture does not show this, but that is not a chamber around the cone. That is the side view of the bracing and has openings in it. The "hole" in the rear is used as a handel.It's sealed from the rest of the cabinet. You may pick up and carry the sub with the front port and the hole slot in the rear. It's a bit heavy.

During the late 80's to early 90's there was bit of a problem with the s/n system making it impossible to know exact year of manufacture. The AL-3 network indicates 1989 or newer. The s/n on the K-33 does not suggest they were built in 1967. The length of that s/n suggests the same time frame of the 1990's

Hi David, It may be best to give us a call at 1-800-554-7724 option 2 We are on central time 8 am to 5 pm

Hi Jason, The Cinema 10 is a package suggestion and not something that comes in one box per say. So you would need to purchase 4 RSX-5's, one RCX-4 and one RW-10. You may opt for the RW-12 or use the RSX-4's as surrounds if you would like.

Try holding the passive from moving by placing your fingers around the outside edge of the dustcap. Have someone run the volume up to the point where you noticed the buzzing. If this stops the buzzing, check the dust cap to see it may be loose. If it is not, then you may need to replace the passive KD-16-K part # 121552 If it the dust cap, a small dab of wood glue should do the trick

Dave, I am the "Steve" you mentioned. In 1981 I became a Volunteer Fireman in North Carolina. 8 and 1/2 years with that Rural dept, I learned a lot, saw a lot, both happy and sad endings. In about 1992 I joined another dept that was all Volunteer, but in a township. We were respected highly by the local main city and called on frequently for help. We had an ISO Ins rating of 4, we were the first dept in the state of NC to achieve that low a rating. The next year, another dept next to us achieved a 3. In all that time I never experienced anything as you described, but expected to every time the alarm went off. I was always ready to do whatever I could and even now would do whatever I can. A very moving and touching story, thank you for sharing. The Type 1 network, I do not have a schematic for it, but have the 1 R The Type 1 was adopted about that time frame. I tried to up load the schematic without any luck, if you want it, please email me at support@klipsch.com

Try the Denon in Direct Mode. It may be the Denon is set to "small mains". When in Direct, the mains are full range as they would be when set to "large" The same with the Onkyo, I am not sure, but it may default to Large when using the "B" speaker out. Some receivers set to small as default, but when in "B" speaker out, they set to "large" or full range. Just a thought

It is a KM-2 Both the KG-1.5 and 1.2 tweeters were intergraded into the front fascia, plastic type front. Mounted from the inside. The KM-2 tweeter as you see was mounted to the outside of the motor board.

Hi Lee, The KP-301 is basically a Pro Cornwall II in a bit smaller cabinet and ported differently. The 301 uses the same K-79-K tweeter and K-57-K with a K-601 horn lens as the Cornwall II. The woofer in the 301 is the Pro K-48-K. The crossover network is different do to the cabinet size and the intended use of the KP-301. As the speaker is for Pro use, it may not sound right at home so to speak. May sound much better on a stage or in a large area application. But you could be the judge of that. I know of several customers using the Pro La Scala's at home and like them. Basically the bass extension may not be as deep as you would expect, but in a large area or outside, they would perform much better. I may suggest an EQ for a few setting changes and it should be fine for home use

If a 3 amp slow blow fuse did not help, it will require service to determine the problem

There was a run of about 92 with that designation. Only a few stores got them. Mahogany Lacquer

Replace the fuse with a 1 amp slow blow. Radio Shack part number # 270-1021 for the 1/4x 1 1/4 270-1063 is it is a 5 x 20 mm

The speaker is acting like a radio...picking up something the tv is putting out. fix... not one that is more easy than moving the speaker away from the tv ...most the time a foot or so will do it. Try placing the speaker upside down, let me know if this addresses it

Jeff, Your thoughts on surround and rear center location are fine and would be my suggestion as well. I have had excellent results with that placement.

HF is the top pos and neg, LF is the bottom pos and neg.

James, We also tested my Klipschorns at work using 1/2 MDF 2x4 sheet attached to the sides, ending just an inch or so past the side grill. Q-Man, The results of the curves we ran on mine show a freq. drop off starting at about 300. It is 2 dB down at 300. At 250 it is 4 dB, from 100 down it stays about 8 to 10 dB down. This was compared to the same cabinet placed in a concrete corner. This MDF was only attached securely at the top of the LF section and at the back of the speaker to the floor. At the point of the LF side grill, there is nothing attaching the MDF to the cabinet. So, unfortunately, the bottom of the MDF "breaths" I do not have the room in my rental home to build proper false walls.

Yes, you should keep the loose, blown insulation from the back of the speakers. It will rest against the woofer cone and cause an irritating, vibrating sound. A barrier around the speaker should be sufficient

The white foam/filler stuff is acoustically transparent and used to "hide" the driver. Using it is optional Sorry for the delay in getting back to this question

To determine the fuse value for the entire speaker: · Divide the continuous power rating of the speaker by 6 · Take the square root of that result and divide by two 100 watts divided by 6 = 16.666666666.. / Square root of this is 4.08248290463 / Divide by 2 = 2.04124.(2 amp) 55 watts = 1.51 amp fuse size Some of our Pro speakers use a 1.5 amp in the HF and 3 for the LF. This is just a starting place and may be increased a little at a time if higher levels are required. It is much easier and cheaper to replace a fuse than the component that you may have to replace..... And yes I noticed the post was an old one..............

Problem usually comes from a half-wave device. Something that may be plugged into the same outlet as the amp in question. Starting point; Turn off the breaker that will shut off the outlet the amp is plugged into. Check to see what else is now off. Start with unplugging everything else that was off. Turn the breaker back on. Then plug items back in one at a time checking for the hum. Most common devices. Clock radios, Glade plugins, lighting dimmers, coffee pots( automatic types with plate heaters). Power conditioners won't help.

As long as the jumpers are in place, you may connect the speaker wire to either set of positive/negative

Please give Tech Support a call 1-800-554-7724 option 2 8 am to 5 pm Eastern

It takes time to find this information, that is why Trey has suggested, in a past post, it is not something easy to find, do to the shipping information being in a locked room with very limited access. 12R244 was shipped from the Hope factory on 4-25-77 to Acoustic Ultimate and was walnut oil. 243 was it's mate. 12R245 was shipped on 4-25-77 to Matthews TV & Stereo and was birch raw, 246 was it's mate. The letter could not have been a "F" because the s/n numbers could not be 12F244, the s/n numbers are unique. They could only have been 12R244 & 45.

One thing else to try, swap the polarity on the tweeter. It is possible the previous owner change the diaphragm and it may be out of phase. That will lower the output from the tweeter on a Heresy I. When you check the caps for any possible wetness, it will more than likley be where the wire/solder points are.