001

this is a big possibility too but he said he tried other speakers & they sounded ok so might be an internal issue. or maybe the placement in the basement with the rear passive of the fortes just isnt working? get them in or close to corners & see if that helps the bass. would be very strange if both speakers had wires with crimped connections come loose from the xover or woofer terminals, dont think rough handling or pot holes would cause that to happen without some visible damage to the cabinets. but ya never know. i let my now EX brother in law borrow my pair of epic cf4s for his makeshift theater room in a basement & he complained they had no bass when as most know epics have great bass... turns out his room had a terrible null in his seating position & he had the speakers far away from corners or a rear wall... that plus his older AVR defaulted to "sub on" (but he didnt have a sub hooked up) which in turn cut the bass at 80hz to the main speakers. those 2 or 3 things combined made the big dual 12" woofer epics sound like a ghetto blaster. we moved them into the corners & changed the AVR settings & things were much better but still not as strong of bass compared to when they were upstairs in my living room. basements can be weird for sound depending on room dimensions & seating positions.

SVS are very good subs & they have the best customer service hands down. they have black friday deals & always have outlet subs listed cheaper than new but full warranty. 5 yr warranty that many times has been honored after it expired. they also offer free in home trial & upgrade credit & the warranty is transferable to used buyers. cant say that for any of the other brands mentioned.

anyone able to check their cf4 crossovers for what caps they have? im really curious why the top pic shows the black poly type caps vs the traditional yellow/blue mylar caps used in most other klipsch of this era. if those are original, why the difference in capacitors in the early epics vs the other common types used in most other models of this era??

the caps in the woofer circuit are electrolytic & most say dont really have much if any effect on the sound. you changed those with film caps?

im a little late to seeing this, i owned 2 pairs of K-horns, 1982 AA & 1994 AK3, i had many of the same issues described by the OP & was not willing to spend thousands of dollars to do the higher end upgrades like new horns & drivers & active x-overs or the slightly cheaper changes to x-overs & tweeters etc but still have the mid horn issues. my room size is similar, a basement with ~21'x14'x8' with doors on the right side to other rooms but rear small wall had perfect corners with pipe insulation on backs of speakers. with all the hype i read over the years about K-horns i was underwhelmed & not happy after a few years with them & sold both pairs. the AA pair were not intended as keepers due to cosmetic issues but the AK3 in oiled walnut were intended to be keepers but had too many issues to be happy with them forever.. dont get me wrong they do many things very well but too many things not very well. a little background, ive owned many combinations of speakers & gear over ~30 years in this hobby, all probably considered mid-fi to many on here, no tubes or fancy high dollar cables etc, just decent quality solid state amps & pre's & speakers. i also like to listen on the loud side to mostly classic/newer rock music but also some heavier rock & even some jazz. gear is stuff like adcom 555ii amps & pre amps from mid to late 80's, rotel of same era, onkyo M504 amp & have owned all kinds of other klipsch speakers from KG5.5 to fortes, chorus, epic cf4 & many other smaller ones, also have definitive technology bi polar speakers more for home theater but also great for music, & had big cerwin vegas in my younger days. ive been to countless A-list rock concerts & local bands in a bars & also play drums & have friends that play drums on a local & nationwide level, im pretty familial with what very loud music sounds like when it sounds good & also when its bad. im no pro but far from a beginner when it comes to klipsch or music reproduction in general... with that said, the K-horns were great at the kick drum hit you in the chest type bass & also very good at lower freq bass, but in my room the bass was very location dependent, meaning you could move just a few feet in one direction & it was almost non existent, go a few more feet & it was overwhelming, im sure that was due to the room dimensions & no real sound treatments but it is full carpeted & has a big couch & other furniture to soften it some. the things they did bad i just couldnt accept & was just as described by rooze, the mids were very congested, harsh, unbalanced & fatiguing at mid to high volumes on almost all music, i had to EQ the bass up quite a bit to be more balanced at all volumes. this was even on stuff considered good recordings, im aware there are good & bad recordings but when 50-75% of what sounds fine on other speakers sounds like crap on K-horns thats not a plus in my opinion. yes i could spend thousands on tubes & other gear or speaker upgrades but thats just not realistic for the average person in this hobby. the whole "they are revealing of bad recordings" thing may be true but when the same music on the same system in the same room sounds good on other speakers including big high efficient klipsch models like cf4 & chorus etc, they are not enjoyable to listen to. all in all i did like them for what they did good, very efficient, great bass & strong mids (too strong)... & they looked great in the room! i occasionally miss them but then i remember all the things i didnt like or that didnt work in my room so i sold them when i had an offer for double what i paid. i now have chorus 2 in their place with mid level dual SVS subs & am much happier in every way. i sold my epics & some other gear to buy the K-horns & in hindsight that wasnt a wise move, for everything the K-horns did good the epics did almost as good but for what i didnt like on the K-horns the epics did very well, no harshness up loud, excellent imaging, no time alignment or congestion issues, could be towed in/out with no effect on bass, most music sounded good, even "bad" recordings. the chorus do most of those things very well too. that is just my opinion & i realize the room was a big factor but they just didnt work for me for many of the same reason rooze mentioned. im sure in a different room with a different system the K-horns would have done much better but its pretty common that many people have the same issues with K-horns & thats why they are so often modded with aftermarket parts to fix or improve these downfalls of what is otherwise a great speaker. i just wanted to comment based on my experience with K-horns of the same era in a similar room listening on the louder side, i hope rooze can figure out a way to address the issues he mentioned & ultimately be happy with them.

pics & price please?

says see pics but there are no pics or links to pics.... & please include a price so we know what you want for them. nevermind- https://miami.craigslist.org/brw/ele/d/fort-lauderdale-klipsch-quartet-floor/7393911029.html

hard to tell how bad the veneer & cabinet are without seeing in person. can you post other pics showing the tops & how the mitered corners are? that is what will determine how bad the cabinets are & if they can be salvaged. if the corners of the cabinets are swollen & split they will most likely need to be replaced or some heavy sanding & resealing, contact a local cabinet maker or carpenter if your wood working skills arent up to tackling something like that. if its just the veneer on the border that is expanded you might get by replacing the border veneer, or worst case if the cabinets are ok & the veneer is bad you could re-veneer the whole speaker but that will probably not match the other one so both would need redone. check youtube for some videos on how to replace veneer. best of luck on saving the speaker.

many times they get stuck, try pushing harder on the magnets or very carefully prying around the frame to break the seal the gaskets can create after many years. they will come out, cant see why anyone would glue them in, the screws hold them in securely... unless the screw holes were stripped at some point.

can you clarify this? every set of cf2 3 & 4 i have seen dont have just holes for ports. the later series got shorter ports vs the V1 that had longer ports but none of them were just holes, like on the chorus that were just holes in the wood. also, what do you mean by "more economically sourced components" in later versions? the mid/tweet driver was the same in all versions as far as i know. a slight crossover change & a lighter woofer cone material for the V3 was the only component change & different wires since they stopped using the clear monster cable that was prone to corrosion problems.

nice. care to mention what parts you used & any changes in sound? looks like dayton 5% for the electrolytics?

thanks for the pics... the right one was upgraded?

hmmm, wonder if they changed capacitor types on the later versions? do you know what version yours are? i used to own V2 cf4's but never thought to pull the x-overs to look. if they are indeed propylene vs the more common mylar type, i wonder why that is?? anyone able to confirm this by looking at their cf3 or 4 xovers?

"preferred"... polypropylene in general is better quality than mylar in many/most of the reputable crossover builders opinions... without getting into the whole "authorized" conundrum. & looking at those epic capacitors, they sure do look like polypropylene & not the traditional yellow/blue mylar found in many other klipsch of this era. are those originals in the epics?

i saw they offer mylar caps too, but notice how they mention they are "a great choice for lower freq applications" & " a higher quality alternative to non polar" electrolytics... also i noticed they mention the film they use is higher purity dupont film compared to competitors lesser quality chinese film...

just a suggestion, ERSE makes some very good capacitors, the electrolytics are very good 6% tolerance & they are what crites uses in their complete crossovers & kits. they will ship first class mail for a few bucks if the order is under 16 oz too. they sell many other parts as well & crites uses them for most their other parts. bob also said he prefers their poly caps over other budget caps like dayton etc, i have used them in many speakers including klipsch & they sound great & fit on the board much better than larger caps like sonicaps etc. & fyi: crites says there is no sound improvement in resistors, he uses the cement cast for all his crossovers. im not saying thats 100% true since some others do use the mills types, just passing along what bob has said. https://www.erseaudio.com/

the format changed based on years, info is in the link i posted above. but yours are 53rd day of 1994.. then 4028 is the production number & what people use to confirm consecutive serial numbers.

must be an echo in here...

should be 1988, 7th week. last 4 digits are number of speakers made.

Price please ??

he should reply pretty soon, im sure hes busy but should reply soon. or maybe he will see this tag & contact you @ngen33r. cant recall where hes located.

& why exactly is a thread on water softeners in the general klipsch sub forum?

read the repair threads in the tech section on these subs &/or contact @ngen33r he repairs these amps that are notorious for failure. good price great service.

@Muddster a member on here @ngen33r repairs these amps & its far less than $ 250 or $265. he has a couple threads on it & can just send him a PM for details. repaired my rw12-d & did an excellent job in a timely manner, does a full recap as well, amp should/will last for many years to come.