JiminSTL

For admittedly low volumes, personally I don't know why you'd want to go the DIY route except if you just like to tinker with crap, except your last sentence makes it obvious that you do not. These new Klipsch 15's will literally do everything you want. I've got two and am getting volumes that you would obviously shy away from. If it is in the audible frequency range then it comes through with authority. No fans to make noise either, perfectly silent, a truly plug and play solution. Your combination is easy. There's an old engineering adage: "good, fast, cheap - pick two". Specifying lower volume lets you "pick two" in my opinion. Personally I would get something that has high efficiency and is ported. I wouldn't choose the ultimax due to the very large ported design (you did specify there's no way you're getting two so I am assuming space is an issue) plus it takes a lot to get them going. Moderate "tinkerer". Not inept, not really skilled either (though, my heart is in the right place!). The reason why I am thinking the 18" is that most of the advice I have received is that it will be difficult to give me the HT thump I want (given the 6,500 cu ft) with anything smaller. If a 15" might accomplish that I would be delighted, but other knowledgeable Forum members whom I respect have advised to go larger. Hence, all of my questions!

Hi, Chuck. Yes, I have brought this up before (although, with a KV-4 center. Now that I am acquiring [tomorrow] the KLF-C7, which has a higher low frequency than the KV-4, I wanted to see if that might make any difference.). I particularly desired the input of those who have similar eqpt.--yourself-- as I have, plus those answering the "theory" or practical applications questions asked. I really do wonder if what I want (deep HT frequencies, lower volume, and single sub) are really do-able. I only get one crack at this! For instance, if I set the crossover at 40Hz, am I compelling the, say, 40+ - 120Hz+ frequencies to take a detour to the sub, and thereby "robbing" myself of the reason and the capabilities of the KLF-30s with their twin 12" speakers, published to go down to 36Hz?

Stonehenge is too small for the ultimax in a ported box, you need at least 8 cubic feet. I've damaged a living room before, but it took six ported Yamaha 18's in ported boxes powered by 4,000 watts in a fairly small space. Split the drywall open and crap started falling out of the ceiling. For even remotely normal volumes from one sub in a 6,500 cubic foot room, the worst you're going to do is rattle any loose light fixtures. Must have been a giant, fingerless massage parlor!!!

Revisiting a subwoofer size and volume issue that I have nibbled around about in the past. Really want to get this subwoofer integration as right as possible, but am very aware of all that I do not know! Here’s the situation: 1. Approximately 6,500 cu ft general area—vaulted ceiling great room, open to adjoining dining area (continuing the high ceiling, sharing the same back wall as the great room and the TV/AVR/main speakers), and open to the kitchen through a pass-through. 2. Main listening positions range from about 5’ to 11’ from the front of the intended subwoofer, which will be positioned behind the MLP area. 3. Truth is, despite the greater perfection of multiple subs, that is a non-starter: my budget, aesthetic harmony, and WAF marital harmony and no-fly zone must be accommodated! 4. Importantly, my main purpose is HT enhancement. I have a Pioneer Elite 35 AVR, KLF 30s as fronts, KLF C-7 center, and KLF 20s as surrounds. 5. Ear-splitting volume is not what I am after. What I want is to bring the low end of movie frequencies into the experience, while listening at my typical volumes ranging from -35 to -25/-23 (real “action” movies). Not married to this “solution”, but based on what I have been reading, and upon the cumulative experience and comments (and urgings) of a number of Forum members here, I have migrated toward thinking that a DIY sub likely offers the best overall solution. Specifically, the “Stonehenge” (30” x30” x 16”--the 16” depth has a lot of appeal!—tuning at 19Hz, and 5.4 cu ft internal volume) flat pack. Seems that most subwoofer recommendations in my price range are a Dayton Audio UM-18” sub or an SI HT18. Any second or other thoughts? Some “concerns” that I have are (comments about above welcome, too): 1. Don’t laugh, but am I likely to do damage to my physical structure (drywall, wall hangings, vases, etc.) if I do not often have very high volume—which some people enjoy and consider normal? 2. Given the distance of the sub location, is my MLP likely to really hear and feel the LFE of such a sub (box) and driver, without “extraordinary” volume? 3. If the port is to the right of the box (looking from the front), how far out from the wall should I put the sub? That distance plus the depth of the sub box is a large reason for the preference of the Stonehenge, at 16” of depth, along with the 19z tuning. 4. Have seen several different recommendations for amplifier. Based on only 1 sub (no chance of a 2nd down the road), and not needing or wanting ear-bleeding volume levels, what would work well? What about noisy fan issue and/or others—for someone not likely to “fix” it himself? 5. With respect to an amplifier and the one sub, what process do I go through to have the sub properly integrated and sounding right? Is one sub or process simpler (successfully) than another? 6. Given that the center channel speaker has a low range of 75Hz, and the KLF-30s are at 36Hz, what would be the proper crossover setting? I presume that I should take advantage of the 2 12” speakers in the 30s for most music? Where best to integrate the sub, relative to the center and mains? 7. Please inform my understanding: if my center channel has a low frequency of 75Hz, I presume that if I had the sub crossover at less than that level, I would have a gap or void in that frequency? Many thanks for the thoughts and answers that are likely forthcoming. I do appreciate all your contributions to my education, and my listening pleasure! I do attempt to contribute here from time to time, if/as I have anything to say that may be helpful.

Thanks Carl, I've been looking at these Marty cube/Marty flat packs on AVS more and more. I may build two of them for the basement and selloff my SVS. Hi, Tim, Am in STL, too. Noticed this very sub on CL two or three months ago. I was tempted, too, and came to the same conclusion that Carl did. Since then, I am seriously interested in building my sub, too. Specifically, thinking of a "johnnysub". Have you seen it mentioned? What kind of sound and performance are you thinking of building toward?

Huh? Not sure of the (constructive) purpose behind that comment, or why you bothered to make it. The question I asked remains for any who have experience/thoughts: if a speaker--specific brand, model #, specs, and expected sound and range--receives a single or a variety of modifications--when or what generally accepted guidelines exist to judge whether it still is that speaker or not? May still carry the name badge, maybe a paper sticker on the back, but . . . . Moray, if you are not inclined to answer or respect a legitimate question and topic, fine. Your choice. No need to respond, either. Best, JiminSTL

Billy, Please, take a deep breath, and one large step backward--away from the ledge. We have located your meds and they will be here shortly. I have 4.2s, and can only imagine how much more your 5.5s offer. Actually, I would buy them (but for the distance to St. Louis), if only to do a "favor" for a Klipsch brother . . . . Guess you have a lot of good speakers, and don't "need" these?

Question from a non-techie (but, techie wannabe): if there are "mods" made to any particular (Klipsch) speaker -- Crites diaphragms, for instance)-- what does it take for the speaker to no longer be considered "Klipsch"? I read about people who purchase various speakers, and then modify them a lot to "improve" them, and I wonder if they still produce even close to the original sound. Is there any more or less objective standard or sliding scale when the speaker is no longer considered to have the original sound and quality? Thanks for your answers.

Hey, billybob, are you a former "military man" yourself? I suspect that not everyone knows about "Bravo Zulu", and some may not make the effort to look it up.

Bravo Zulu, Brother!

OK, Scrappy, You've teased us long enough. What are you getting--specifically--and what (specifically) are you replacing with it?

Congrats, Scrappy! Selling anything?

Sb001, "Pawn shop", "thrift shop"--I keep reading about the extraordinary good luck some people have. Hesitate to hang around pawn/thrift shops for the excitement, though. Anyway, to give an answer to your question, knowing that there will be additional answers following, there recently have been CF-4s for sale on this forum. Seems that the initial/starting price tends to be $1,200 at the high end. The transactions that I have noticed generally end up about $800, though a recent one apparently sold for $750 (in NY). But you may be in a somewhat less-populated area where there is less activity/population w/ the CF-4s, which would affect the transaction price, too. Likewise, I have noticed various CraigsList advertisements in the $900/$1000 - $1,200 price range. Anyway, please let us know some of the specifics of what you have purchased (color, condition, location, and price, if you wish), and we will all rejoice with you in your certain delight (except, possibly, for those of us with a twinge of jealousy for those who find the color, condition, location, all at a great price).

Beautiful equipment. And I LOVE those 60s/70s style "stereos". So good looking! Remembering "back in the day".

Good heavens! Would love to hear them. Those are beasts--beautiful, magnificent beasts.

"Tempestious1" (sic), would it be too "snarky" to ask for a period--just once in a while to help the comprehension . . . .? Don't mean to offend, but it may keep a reader from having to reread your comments to make sure he is understanding your question/comment. Thanks.

All three like to stand up on their hind legs and "paw" the speaker fronts, as if it were a scratching post. What I have done is to create a mixture of water and vinegar in a spray bottle, and then mist the grille covers, repeating every month or so. Seems to do the trick.

You bet! I think the behavior is both instinctive and pleasurable (even declawed).

So, while the cats are declawed, you would not worry too much about their stretching and kneading the actual woofer itself? Maybe the noise/aversion conditioning should do the trick?

Non-technical but important question--to me. Am getting close to a DIY project to build a sub (maybe a "Johnnysub" with an 18" woofer). My question revolves around my 3 declawed cats. Does anyone have any similar experience? I suppose that I should have a design which includes a grille cover? Or not (likely) to be necessary? I welcome your comments!

Agreed, and time to say "g'night". What in the heck are we doing going on about such stuff at this hour?

Thanks, Billybob, for the "like". Not sure the OP is any closer to receiving an answer/understanding to his original question, but at least others have opined, right?

Hello, FTT, and welcome to the Forum. FWIW as a non-expert, I had the Synergy F-3s as L&R speakers. Liked them considerably. I had the RC-3 center, and I thought it worked very well (excellent balance, power, sensitivity, and "grace"). I did move on to the KLF-30s for my fronts, and KLF-20s as surrounds and replaced the RC-3 with a KV-4. But that is another story. So, let us know what you decide, and wish you many hours/years of delightful listening.

Scrappy and others with the iNuke 3000. Does that amp have an "Auto on" feature, or must I physically turn it on--or off--whenever I want to use it in my system?

Roger that, Scrappy! "Measure twice, cut once."