Dave A

Laughing about this. I had two buzzers that took forever to figure out. One was a bug screen that had fallen loose and in behind the dust cap. The other was a screw stuck on the woofer magnet.

CWOReilly is giving you good advice. I would check the freebies first. Back panel screwed in good and all drivers as well. The mid horn gasket gets hard over time and can make exactly that kind of noise. Something many overlook is a frequency generator. $50 bought a good used one for me off ebay and you can use them to check your cabinet and all components for buzz and rattle. Again great advice. I have some music that did just this until I gave up trying to fix or find a good copy and threw the junk out. He has covered every base for you and if all fails an ohm meter and your newly acquired frequency sweep generator will tell the tale on a bad diaphragm.

OK sent. I would like to hear both types some day. I know with the 1132's the new phase plugs made a real difference over the old ones.

Did you get the ones with Roy's new phase plug in them?

You are a true forum paragon of steely resolve and diligence, a bulwark against negativity plus you did not need to google your answer.

My thought was to use crossover L-Pad calculators to get a value to start with. Then I could set the adjustable resistors to those values and tweak from there without having a drawer full of resistors of fixed value. Calculators are a place to start not finish unless you get real lucky. Or they are attempts to answer questions that were not asked. Well he really meant to ask ------- so I will help him out by asking the correct question he meant to ask.

So far I have not had to worry about boxing etc. It has all been pro gear so nothing as fragile as say fancy veneer to worry about. I think it is all in an accurate description of what you want shipped and then see what needs to be done. Moving blankets have been provided for instance the one time I was worried about items. I imagine boxing could be done by the UShip agent also if covered and required by the seller.

I have two drivers I need diaphragms for and indications are this could be a long wait to get them from Klipsch. So does anyone have a suggestion for an 80 watt horn driver that would do the same thing? I want to be able to restore a set of KPT-942/4's and use the stock Klipsch crossover that came with them.

Talking to American Cinema today about diaphragms for two 1132 drivers and I am told I need to order them to get in line. Problem is that there is no ETA when they might ever get them and I don't want to wait. So anyone out there with some drivers?

Bet I did. I don't ship speakers but I do have UShip make local pickups at my place. Buyer arranges the deal and I help load and off it goes. I mean they back right up to my shop door and you can't get more local. Way out in the country down a 1 mile one lane road.

Sigh, I have two Xilicas and a Mini DSP HD and use a Xilica 3060 on my Super MWM's. I know all about electronic crossovers. What my question is though, and still is, has anyone used adjustable wire wound resistors to attenuate a passive crossover on the HF side. Please refrain from answering this very specific question by suggesting it is not optimal or there are better ways etc. I want to talk to someone who has tried this and yes I have my reasons for doing so.

Just sent another load off by UShip today. Sending a set of KP-301-II's with 115 subs off the same way next week. Not being able to travel is not a valid excuse. Unless of course those big bad speakers scare you and you want to avoid them.😏

I have some resistors on order using that method too. My problem is attenuating a 109db 150 watt hf driver to a set of 99.9db woofers.

Yes that is what I am thinking. I have tried some L-Pads but they seem to drift a bit.

Yes I know that but my question is as posted. I want to hear from those who have tried these and what they found.

Has anyone used wirewound adjustable resistors to dial in their HF? Reading about these and wondering if for experimentation purposes these might be the way to go to find correct values without having to buy tons of wire wound resistors instead. Yes I know those online calculators exist but not thrilled with them.

Well something they could hear but could not measure. Of course with proper equipment I am sure they could have.😉 Why climb Mt Everest too.

Have you considered the possibility of lousy recordings? Far more of them out there then you might think. Audacity might help you and finding a better quality file of the same music might prove the bad file issue and not a tweeter problem.

I am not going to fool with these. Bought originally to measure from to make SMAHL derivitives of and waited way to long to test them. When I did they were shot and I am not going to add the cost of new diaphragms to something that I have already spent to much on. So, you want them pay the shipping and they are yours.

I think you are right upon closer look. Wonder how many of the "some of the speakers don't work" problems go with the bad cabinets.

Speakers require the garbage can. You cant fix smashed corners in MDF.

OK what do you mean? Never heard of this before.

If your room is large enough to fit them in no speaker is "too big". Golden rule for great sound where Audio rules and not WAF rules.

Yes, put it back in and run them. Save your money if you liked how they sounded to begin with.

I thought the K-79 was supposed to be phenolic and in looking at a set of K-79's I have in the shop it looks like the Simply Speakers material. Phenolic by definition is cloth impregneted with synthetic resin. I have cut some a half inch thick in the shop but the same material in one layer of fine cotton cloth would be the same just thinner. I assumed since you mentioned the K-79 that is what the KLF-20 uses. I see just now in further search though that the K-79 in the Chorus is listed as phenolic and the KLF-20 which also has the K-79 has polymer. So for what it is worth regarding polymer vs Ti I prefer the polymer in 1" diaphragms and find the Ti to be tinny and a bit harsh to my ears. I have no knowledge as to why they used two different materials here on the Klipsch diaphragms.