Dave A

I believe it is still here and I will check tomorrow.

Proving that Heresy's stand the test of time. Old to the forum maybe but not to the poster who revived it.

I suppose one could go with low efficiency high excursion woofers, providing they don't mind bar room boom sound quality.

A Pretty simple actually. You start with an H1 which has a removable back. You can save to OEM back to restore to factory configuration later if you wish. Then read up on Claude's super heresy thread and follow instructions. Now I know you have an H2 but I don't know anyone who has made a super out of those. B Save the money for H4's which will be a lot more money but they are really good. C Cheapest most common bass maker for Heresy's would be a sub. If it bothers you to have a sub you have limited yourself to choices A and B above.

100% agree. I am also amused by how many things are edited after the fact. To bad there is not a time limit on edits.

Another vote for the H1. Get real wood not glued sawdust and also get deeper bass. You have to go to the H4's to beat the H1's in my opinion.

Those K-43's are the way to go in MWM's and La Scalas. You give up a couple hz in bass and pick up astonishing mid range. You DO realize that you have doomed yourself, right? Once you hear big you can never UN-hear. La Scalas are not even close to those MWM's. Single fold horns rule. To bad you have not heard the real deal though. You still are running those plebian regular size bins.

Ha Ha yes indeed and the kickers will all wail and moan about missing the good buy when the right buyer sees this and buys on the spot first thing. I have bought some great gear on Craigslist while people on the Klipsch forum are debating going or trying to knock a super price down even more. In the mean time I drive home with them and then post about the great buy later. These should not be here still.

People be careful about selling your stuff unless you have your replacement in hand. Right now I cant get 25mm Baltic Birch and they have no idea when more will be here. B&C tells me if I order DE-120's or DE-10's today it will be 6 or 7 MONTHS before I get them. Eminence Kappa 12A were on order from me on 6-1-21 and were not in stock until 9-16-21 and they have been out again for a few weeks now. Go to Parts Express and see for yourself how many drivers are out of stock. Plus when they tell you a date for when they will get more in expect two or three delays on that. I don't know how Klipsch handles this type of thing but if they have delays in product to you it is certainly not their fault and be patient with them. Now replacement parts is totally messed up from what I hear and communications are bad. I think that is a different problem.

Do you know Jeff Medwin by any chance?

Always right I guess eh? Everyone else wrong I suppose also. Are your prototypes in cyberspace or do you have some physical samples to show?

Yes indeed and far more then he bargained for.

I guess modeling things can be the end goal for some. Roy does this modeling thing too but he also stops to LISTEN and verify the academic calculations with audio perception by well trained ear and arrives at great conclusions backed by physical examples. Which are often sold by the hundreds of thousands to happy campers. So once again I want to know what you do with these copious amounts of data. If you use this data to make things with lets see the practical real world examples and not just another chart. I can understand being fascinated with the process of designing from the I want to know part of the mind but to me the more important part of the equation is what can and is done with the data. Until you build it all you have is predictive data. In the right hands this is a really powerful tool which cuts down on the amount of physical builds to verify the predictive behavior. Analytical data derived from a built sample leads to does this idea really work and by analytical I mean trained ears and electronics and real tangible put your hands on them goods. So what do you do with all this stuff anyway? As an aside here. Edgar builds a lot of stuff and has a long track record of design builds. I always look forward to his informative real world posts.

OK giving you the benefit of your claimed expertise when are you going to present us with a correctly designed crossover? Something that would take the place of perhaps an AA. I want to see and listen to an example of what you feel would be correct design parameters. I tend to pay a lot more attention to people who provide examples and how to's and have audio examples I can listen to. Lectures on proper engineering implementation with no practical real world example followups is not helpful. Curves and charts are indicators only that may be very good but until you supply examples it is academic. Example. I took the 67uf aluminum electrolytic capacitor from a Chorus crossovers and replaced it with a Tantalum (or whatever) and here is what I found. Example. I took an AA crossover and replaced a with b and here is what I found. How did it sound and since you are a measuring guru what about the results you obtained for better or worse both audibly and electronically? What were your reasons for replacing the component and then the results would also do.

My reason for buying this was Bob Crites used it for this purpose. I found Bob's advice over a number of years to be good and as I have said the only thing I ever disagreed with him on was woofer caps. If it was good enough for him it is good enough for me. I find your "at least it doesn't just" comment somewhat amusing as that is what I think of people using Fluke Multi meters for capacitors. I have no worries about what my meter tells me though. As often as I have told the story of why I use poly caps for woofer circuits I guess I should just write it up and save it so I can copy paste in the future. I think you were part of a thread where I mentioned this but I will do so again. So here is my copy and paste why I use poly caps on woofer circuits. First off is life span. All I have read says electrolytic's last a shorter period of time so since I do not need to pay attention to a penny pinching accountant I use all poly caps. Should have a roughly similar life as the rest of the crossover caps. More importantly I ran across polypropylene or polyester caps, but in any case a film cap, with a pro speaker. Up until then I used whatever was on the crossovers which for woofers was electrolytic. So it was a KP-450 which has the same two woofer bass bin from then all the way until today where it is still in current production with only minor changes. It sounded really good and was my introduction to higher end Klipsch Pro gear. So I open the bass bin and there sites a 50uf Dayton polypropylene cap. No one admitted to recaping them and they figured it was a stock crossover. I had a set of MCM-1900's with a Klipsch OEM three way crossover and it also used all poly caps. Because of this I started using things like 67uf polypropylene caps for KP-301's and Chorus speakers. These poly caps sounded better to me and I have never quit using them to this day. I have some current version KPT-942 crossovers and sitting right there is a big fat ol polyester 50uf cap. Not one electrolytic in sight. Whether it provides as an adjunct to the superior headroom pro gear has or is more durable under load or simply lasts longer in hard environments or all three I don't know. I change everything over to these poly caps now as it is just too cheap not to and I have never disliked the result.

I suppose anything is possible but I read far more for then against and I see what I measure. To be honest I can't hear a difference and my opinion is based on what I have read and ESR measurements I have done. I have no way of detecting what you reference so even if it was there I could not fix it. Nor would I try since I am basically happy with results I get.

Sure. It has been a while since I ordered them and the reason for that was they were always running out and I would get partial orders. They had their chance and I just got tired of waiting. This was way before the current nonsense by the way. I never discussed caps with Bob other than his use of electrolytics for woofer circuits which I disagreed with. I got my B&K 885 meter after I quit ordering caps from Erse so I have not had a chance to measure any. I have ended up using Dayton and Audyn caps for a couple of years now. I wonder why Micheal has moved to Daytons? For my money they are economical and sound good, to me of course, and PE tells me up front if they are in stock so no here is part of your order suprises.

I am not crazy about Erse caps though they do offer many values. What I do get from them are Super Q crossover coils which are really good FYI.

Ha Ha and yes that is how I operate. Interesting comment on the La Scalas. When I get done fixing up speakers I normally listen to them for a few days. I start off thinking how puny they are to the S-MWM's but in a day or so thinking I could live with these if I had too.

When you refer to timing are you talking about the length electricity has to travel in one cap vs the other? I looked up speed of electricity and what a can of worms that was and differing conditions and answers. I have people who maintain they can hear the difference of a freestanding tweeter being moved front to back just a few inches and perhaps they can. The human eye can perceive 1,000,000 colors, or so I read today. I sometimes think the minutiae drags down important things that matter to inconsequential levels while in pursuit of fixing that .001% of the problem. Now on my Super MWM's there was no question that time aligning and active DSP made it sound awesome. 108" throat depth though. On a speaker that has maybe 6" between mid and tweeter and woofer? At what point do these things become academic and not real world relevant?

Heck I was hoping you had the answer. OK could you explain how this smear happens? I never change values on crossovers either and stay with the values used by the OEM. On rare occasions I do things like Claude's crossover mod for Super Heresy's as I figure he knows what he is doing judging by the results he gets. Apparently stacking caps was allowed at times with Klipsch crossovers as I remember reading that two lesser value caps could be used in lieu of a single cap on some of the schematics. I agree with active is better but passive can sound pretty darned good to.

Are you privy to these specs? I have found nothing that indicates more than uf values. Just had a look at 6 different Klipsch crossover schematics and there was no tolerance other than uf and volts. uf was even numbers and no tolerance range and volts were specified, as I assume a minimum. Not one bit of information on ESR. I would REALLY like to get this info you have as I have been looking for some time for it. For instance lets take the AA crossover. What is the allowable resistance range and where does resistance fit in for each driver in allowable resistance as an aggregate of all components used counting tolerance stackup and for individual components. My assumption is anything that reduces resistance gets closer to design intent but I would really like to get a real definitive answer on this. I know for instance that reduced resistance in coils is supposed to be desirable, or so I read.

Well I might disagree on this one. It will reduce ESR when you use two caps and not one. I don't know how it does this but I can see it in measurements. I also don't know how important the minor drop in ESR is when you do this. Price wise if you are not buying expensive caps you won't be spending much more at all.

+ for 12g zip cord. I get it in 100' or longer rolls and it does the job with no problems. In my shop I can roll over it, people walk on it and never a problem with it. Heavy enough to far surpass any demands I might place on it with big pro gear. I guess my longest runs have been maybe 50'.

@CrankysoldermeisterI have your new avatar.