Dave A

I have sold more KP-301's and KPT-456's to Nashville area studios than anything else.As a matter of fact they only call me when I have those here.

That's a new one to me. I have had one broken lead on an autoformer and a couple of melted capacitors and resistors that had gotten so hot they charred the board and unsoldered themselves. Never had a cap with a broken lead though.

Most of the pro gear I have had that had that problem had either loose female spade ends at the driver terminals, loose screws on the barrier strip or worn out banana plugs on the terminal cup. They can get loose enough to give you problems under some conditions.

Imagine a smiley face or sarc S at the end of my comment.

Free crimp tool with it?

Good buy guys, why are these still here? You fart around and think about it you lose as someone will see that add for the first time and not think twice. If they were closer to me they would have sold upon first reading.

First gen 402's and 501's were really bad. It was easy to break chunks off the 501's simply by snugging down screws. I had one with a corner broken out and a visitor that did not quite believe my brittle comment. So I dropped it on the floor and watched his jaw drop next. The 402's cracked easy to but they also sagged in heat and became deformed. The top holes where the 501 mounted for 535 three ways nearly always cracked. Klispch did learn their lesson though and never used that junk again. Bet it cost them good will and money. The broken pieces reminded one more of cement then plastic.

I was reading this and thinking of Bill Gates famous no one will ever need more than 500mb storage on a hard drive years ago. Just as fast as capacity and speed advanced so did the demands placed upon it by increasingly more complex software. I had one of the current KPT-535 crossovers here a while back and it had 37 components on it. I counted because I could not believe it. Not reflecting on Al's work here just thinking about what is going on today. Complexity not dreamed of a few years ago because design software allows for it for better or worse.

Well Google has become a really poor search engine these last few years with lots of irrelevant search results. This showed up as an image in a search for speaker designs. The site it referenced had nothing to do with designs but it did have this picture.

I can relate to that. Since my life after 1981 revolved around technical skills, especially after 2002 when design software and machining software and cnc machines entered my life. Forums were full of things that did not jibe with my experience. I started looking to those that do and not those that opine long ago. I don't agree with some very technical people but at least they had real reasons for their conclusions.

AMEN to that. I keep looking for the definitive final answer to speakers and get instead numerous definitive final answers. You would think with the limited numbers of components typically used in speakers and their drivers that this would have been well defined long ago. I did stumble across one speaker design this morning I found intriguing though.

Well I can tell you how to stop them easy peasy. Get a carolina reaper and where ever the problem child chews on things rub the pepper on that section. Hilarity will ensue as the perp becomes a victim and you won't have to worry about it any more. Works on any chew toy they have been forbidden to chew.

That was my thought to and had even thought about embedding a few pieces into that support block also.

@Woofers and TweetersLike a guy with MCM 1900's in his house has any ears left, right?:D

If you look closely at the plastic where the spade end connections are on your diaphragm you will see a + mark on one of the terminals on the top side. As stated black is to negative and the colored wire to the positive. 99% of the time the wires are crossed at the driver and not the crossover. Both deserve checking though

I thought about that too. The support rod is removable and can be cut down in length. I suppose that a wood dowel rod could be used too which would allow anyone the ability to shorten the rod. There will be set screws on the bottom that will tighten to the rod which are not shown yet.

Well when you get close to 70 good wood is not the problem. It is finding the remnant left by then that becomes an issue.

Much cheaper in material and the equipment required to make solid wood horns. Reflecting on the difference between formed plywood horns and solid stacked BB machine horns brings me to something I experienced last week. I had been running those ZXPC 10 x 18 horns recently as I had a visitor here talk me out of my first set of 7 x 14" mouth solid wood horns. Wanting to listen to something before I cut another set I used the Faital HF146R drivers and that ZXPC horn. When I had another set cut I went to swap them out and noticed the ZXPC had vibration in it and it never sounded as good as the wood horn. Now it was not mounted in anything so how it would behave with the flange screwed in tight I don't know. It made me wonder about plastic horn resonance though. I think the same could be true with formed plywood horns.

I have tossed these around for about a year now as I have been asked a number of times if I was ever going to make any. Part of the problem was making them as simple as possible but still look good and be durable and steady in use. One of the big pieces of the puzzle was getting good wood and I think I have a good couple of sources now. The pictures are not fancy as I came inside late today with a grin on my face and figured fancy can be for another day. This wood is Ambrosia Curly Maple and takes a very nice smooth finish. When I get the second one done you will see this set is book matched which is how I intend to make them if possible. I will be getting serious about the K-400 in January and I think I have figured out how to do wood LMAHL also. That remains to be seen though and they will also be done in January. IF I come up with a good way.

Dean has been a pretty sparse poster for some time now so the newbies don't have a clue he has been in a number of rodeos.

Oh forgot to mention this. There are three types of K-77's used in La Scalas. The K-77-M which is shown in this thread and is by far the most common, the K-77-F which is the Zee Bracket type and finally the K-77-D which is the newest one with a cast flange and boss. Picture of the two courtesy of Bob Crites. Miss you Bob.

Though it is a long and rambling thread this one Claude started has his test info and what they are and do according to his measurements and other forum members also have things to say. Typing SMAHL into search will take you to other posts.

While I could spend much more if I chose to I seek for the best bang for the buck. Setting a certain dollar level as being the minimum for quality is what overpriced audio equipment makers trick you into on places like Audiogon. I am very happy with plain old Crown XLI800 amps at less than $300 each. No one that hears my setup complains about sound quality or poor amps.

@edzu1234 The SMAHL V2 is the only one available. There is a first version which has not been made for almost two years now shown. Both were made to be drop ins.

I thought they packed some sort of wadding around those balls and they were not metal to metal. Well if you are skeered of it why not start a trebuchet range and launch toilets and pumpkins?