The History Kid

I did a side-by-side with the RSW-15 in case anyone else was having the same question. The 1600SW may have me putting Klipsch back on the shortlist if I ever have issues with mine.

Another bump. Make an offer. It needs a new home.

The 2.2's I'd run as Speaker A. 2.1's to Speaker B. For the passive sub, you'll run the Speaker A (or B ) from the receiver to the sub input. Then from the sub output, you'll run it to the speakers. Don't double up on the receiver, that isn't how its designed to work.

I held onto these forever, because they're such an awesome speaker, but an offer to upgrade presented itself. Thus, it's time to part ways. These speakers held their own against many other contenders over the years. They've been moved around from computer systems to finally resting in a bedroom. I'm the second owner, but while they've been in my care they've been well cared for. Their only flaw right now is dust! I'm in the process of cleaning the grilles on them, so those are not in the picture below. Drivers are nice and clear, stands are in good shape, binding posts are clean. These speakers are ready to rock someone's world. The satellite speaker that doesn't know it's a satellite speaker is up for $100 + shipping. These don't come around super often anymore (the 5's at least).

The "minimum input" figure is something I've never understood - especially with Klipsch speakers. The mainstay of Klipsch speakers (or one of them anyway) has always been their power efficiency. Plenty of us power systems with as little as 1 watt. Let alone 120.

The matching floor speakers are the RF-25's. You could run 15's (less preferable) or 35's (more preferable) as well. Other systems that use 6" drivers and 1" horns would work, but the timbre matching and voice matching is the RF-x5 series, and those speakers were specifically designed with the RF-25's in mind.

A 16"? 👀 I wonder how it'd stack up against the RSW-15's.

The RF-3's would be an upgrade over the R-28F, however if you have the option between the CF-2's and the RF-3, the CF-2's would probably perform better in most scenarios save possibly for Home Theater. As a reminder, Reference pre-2016 are the lineage that "Reference Premier" draws itself from. The progression from past to present in Reference is RF-3, RF-3 II, RF-35, RF-82, RF-82 II, RP-820F, RP-802F. The analog comparison is the R-28F to the SF-3 versus the RP-802F to the RF-3 II.

Sony Premium Home Entertainment - 4K Blu-ray UBP-X800M2

Price updated. It's taking up space.

Then you have an older ProMedia 2.1 system. There's no real need to turn them off, however.

Not necessary. Read a few posts up and you will see that pushing the volume knob will turn the system off. I also have one of these systems on a flight sim configuration and that is indeed the standby method.

The bus that is used on the PS1, PS2, and PS3's are all the same interconnects. What is different is this is one of the unique situations where the cabling matters. Another thing you need to remember is that the PS1 was not built for any kind of digital output. It used its own onboard DAC for everything. The 1001 had the benefit of being able to accept cabling that was larger than the 22GA RCA interconnects that were typically used as well. Sony saw a marketing opportunity and took it by using the unified bus A/V cabling. The only thing the PS1 had going against it was the disc tray which was notorious for chewing up discs (the 2nd and 3rd generation PS2's also did this, it's why I got rid of my slim). Fortunately by the time they came out with the slim PS3's they used a soft-tip spindle instead.

I totally forgot to come around to this again, so here's some of the straight up photos. Photo #2 shows the screen being weird. It does have the remote though! Which seems like it's an odd thing to still have. It was working on the last test that I ran.

Based on how your speakers are configured at the front, I don't imagine your room is that large and takes much to fill with sound. That AVR is a monster. You aren't going to gain anything going to a power amp over a capable receiver such as that in your space. Spend money on treatments or additional extensions (i.e. another sub). A power amp is wasted in that environment.

Hey y'all, I have a Parasound zTuner (pretty sure it's an OG) that I'm selling. I'll need to get photos later (I do always have them), but the system has an issue with the display. I don't think the fix is going to take too terribly much, but still...we moved to just using a tablet to run the system this came from now. The display shows gibberish, so it's hard to tell exactly what you're doing with the system. Everything else functions well however, and I do have the remote - which apparently seems to be a big thing that many zTuner's are without. Condition cosmetically is a solid 8/10 Functionality minus the display is a 10 - but again, the display *is* an issue. I'm asking $30 plus shipping, but am open to offers since it seems like the pool is rather shallow on these units. Photos will come later on when I have the time to get them taken and uploaded. I *might* have the original box? But I'd have to look at my storage unit to know for sure. Either way, product will be well packaged when shipped.

You are only partially correct here. What is correct is that it will be difficult for you to find an AVR that will supply a full 100W to all channels driven. What isn't correct is that just because the power rating is the same doesn't mean it's the same kind of power. The X series AVR's use a totally different power transformer, and the amplification section is also considerably different. You don't need to pay as much attention to power ratings as most people would lead you to believe. What you really need to pay attention to is how much these one-to-two channel driven ratings are for short periods of time (it's rare all channels will be driven to their hardest at the same time), while also feeding your speakers clean power. The X series can do this efficiently and effectively. The S series would struggle with this. Unless you go to a pre/pro with an outboard amp, you will not achieve more than 100WPC with all your channels unless you really break the bank, and there are only a handful of receivers out there that would do this (8500 from Denon, 8015 from Marantz, Anthem's upper two tiers, etc).

Some notes here. The AVR-960H is not 90W all channels driven. I believe it's either 1 or 2 channels only. Most AVR's will not deliver their WPC rating advertised, double check specs. It is 90W x2, at 5 channels it is likely closer to 35-45, and at 7 it is probably closer to 20-30 (it has 500 W total power, which means it can not exceed 70WPC all channels driven, assuming it was doing nothing else but driving speakers - which is not the case). Klipsch speakers do not need much power, but the cleanliness is the deciding issue. Highly recommend an AVR-X series from Denon at minimum - especially for RP series. They will still be under the maximum continuous output of the Klipsch, but you don't necessarily need to meet that figure anyway.

Continue... I'm listening.

I'll just be that guy...you could always build your own or have someone build you one. The two I've built thus far have far outperformed any prebuilt units I've had in the past hands down and for much less.

Looks like a no go for the 569, will try the 599's. While a minor detail, for the sake of storage and reducing the risk of damage, the attached cable was kind of a downer for me. Live and learn I suppose. haha

I've currently put an order in on a pair of HD 569 S's, just to see if I like the general sound of the Senny's. I'm familiar enough with the brand, just kind of out of it on how they translate to the Klipsch. If not, Focal might be where I go. I can't bring myself to buy used on headphones for a variety of reasons. If I don't like the 569's I'll just use them at work since I need new ones there too. Meanwhile, I think what I enjoyed about the Status was the powerful sound they put out, but I'm not opposed to trading off a bit of that power for clarity. These headphones will always be running off of the Parasound preamp, which did wonders for virtually every headphone I've been able to get my hands on. Will keep all of these suggestions and others in mind as I unravel all this.

Sadly it seems my Klipsch Status headphones are on their way out the door. They've served me well over the years, but I can't justify repairing them with the wear on the ear cups and the slight irritation they had brought with wearing them. These days, Klipsch doesn't seem to make headphones anymore. What I had liked about the Status and Reference One's was their ability to cover the spectrum pretty well. What are some good headphones under $500 right now that fit that bill? Wired preferred. The only other brand I've considered for any kind of critical listening is Sennheiser, but I've been so out of headphones late I don't know if they've changed their quality too. Ideas, Klipsch fam?

Not a 30 or 40 series BIOS. Or did you miss that part of my comment?

No it's not. It hasn't been since the 30-series. Dell's BIOS hasn't allowed for any overclocking or board modifications since at least then.