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Everything posted by geoff.

  1. CT-120s are excellent. Arguably better than K-77s. The elliptical lenses offered by Dave A to replace the K-77 are the SMAHL (small machined aluminum horn lens). With the same DE-120 driver as the CT-120, they are arguably better. I have both and agree with the recommendations from the other members. I would even go so far as to suggest the tweeters as the first, fully reversible step. Klipsch no longer uses the K-77 in the newest La Scala for a reason.
  2. I think this is why Jimbo suggested painters tape BEFORE applying the damping material. And welcome to an awesome forum.
  3. The Crites CT-120s will do those justice... wait, what? lol
  4. Wow, again, those are some vintage crossovers in there. ...jus’ sayin’, lol
  5. Wow, I read early Cornwall 2s and thought mid ‘80s, but you got the OG version, lol. Congratulations. So, at the risk of offending the sensibilities of some, I will say straight up I am not a fan of the venerable K-33 and the B crossover isn’t doing anyone any favours. But, the “upgrade” path is a slippery slope of diminishing returns. I have owned four pairs of Cornwalls over the years, my least favourite was a ‘79 pair with the B crossovers, nice at low volumes, as is to be expected. But I also had an ‘84 pair with the B-3 crossovers at the same time, which I kept. I had a pair of ‘86 Cornwall 2s which despite having a different crossover and completely different tweeters was more alike than different from the ‘84s. I kept one pair of the B-3 Cornwalls, to play with. A pair of Crites woofers found their way into them and the difference was not subtle. Immediately recognizable lower and tighter bass. The K-33s are safely tucked away in the boxes they came in for posterity. There is an ALK B crossover schematic that, based on my recent experience with the ALK A crossover clones in my La Scalas I believe would be worth trying, but I have never seen any feedback on here about them. I had no idea the K-77 could sound as fine, and the mids are fully adjustable. Yours should have the Alnico K-77 versions that Bob Crites preferred, but are very low wattage drivers. More bass, steeper slopes, and the ability to tone down the K-55 would make for a sweet(er) sounding pair of Cornwalls. The Crites woofers will never go to waste and the mods are fully reversible. Of course, once you touch so much as a screw on them you can’t call them Cornwalls anymore and St. Peter may have a bone to pick with you, lol.
  6. Hoping to repurpose these and not sure of the tap settings. There are no numbers on any of the taps, unlike pretty much every other Klipsch autoformer. Looking at schematics for the AL crossover, which seems to be the only one that used it, there are no indications of taps either. At the risk of assuming, the middle top would go to the squawker and the bottom in and out are inconsequential?
  7. My working pair of 301s has the screws pictured below on four corners. They go into T-nuts on the motorboard. That silvery shine behind the cloth and under the logo is Dave A’s secret weapon, lol. My mismatched project pair, sans grilles, each have velcro in six places. As for the polarity of the driver, I just checked three pairs on the shelf and they ALL have yellow paint of some sort on the positive side. Check very carefully for some remnant of yellow around one terminal.
  8. They start out strong and don’t loose their coherence like lower order crossovers do as you give them gas. The imaging struck me as well. You might say the torque and horsepower curves are a coincident straight line, lol
  9. For the record, I’m living vicariously through you, lol!
  10. ...I can almost make out Al’s secret woofer filter from the picture of those ALK-450s @pcbiz, what tap setting are you using for the squawker, -6db? You may get a little more “distinguishing” if you let the squawker talk a little louder? Or not. Cheers to your journey!
  11. Way to carp that diem! ...there is no worse feeling than “what if?”
  12. See, that’s another anomaly, the soldered lug K-55-V drivers on my LSIs were actually stamped “LSI” in red ink, in a red circle. If those are “W” date code they should have the soldered lug K-55-V.
  13. In case you’re curious, that inductor offers less resistance than what is in the stock AA crossovers. It equates to a half a decibel or more bass.
  14. ...I literally JUST built my own ALK Universal clones last weekend, lol
  15. It looks like the red label says “ALK Engineering, Cornscala - Wall Universal”, and instead of massive coils for the inductors I see a steel core “bar” inductor just tucked under the K-55. Looks like the breadboard is MDF too (iykyk),lol! But THAT won’t affect the sound, here...
  16. Fun score! K-33s come up often and pretty reasonable on the Bay. If you need two new woofers though I would suggest Kappa 15Cs, if they are in stock anywhere. They are not the bargain they once were, but they will “supercharge” the bass and play off nicely to the squawker. They are very similar in performance to the K-43 woofer that came in subsequent LSI iterations. Surprised yours didn’t have K-43s? Get them playing first and see where you want to go from there. As for finish, someone on here did theirs in piano black lacquer and it impressed the heck out of me. Above my paygrade but beautiful. Veneer would be sweet too. I have two pairs of LSI Splits that I have modded. One pair has A/4500 crossovers and DE-120 tweeters on SMAHL lenses, the other has homemade ALK Universal crossovers 6db down on the squawker. I think I prefer the A/4500 combo... With a few relatively inexpensive 2 and 6.8 uF capacitors and a switch of taps on the autoformer your AA crossover will shine.
  17. That is an “economy” ALK CSW/Universal crossover, not an extreme slope. But that is not a bad thing, just cheaper. That is a whole lot of La Scala for a decent price, assuming the internals are stock and functional. You would have to spend a lot more to arrive at this experiment on your own time. As was mentioned, the accoutrements on top of the stock model would recoup a decent chunk of the outlay if you are not impressed, but you probably will be. If La Scalas are what you are after, these are pretty sweet foray.
  18. @John kal, there are usually some pretty sweet audio deals to be had around Montreal and Quebec City. I have contemplated the same drive as you several times over the years. But just when I am about to commit to a day long journey something equal or better comes up in Sudbury, Ottawa, or Windsor and saves me a few hours. "There is no replacement for displacement." The biggest horns and the largest woofer(s) are where you will wind up. 300 watts will bring out the best of those KLF 20s in terms of bass. When I switched from a 150w/channel NAD C370 to a 300w/channel Emotiva XPA-2 the difference in the bass of my Chorus 2s was anything but subtle. As I said, that is a very fair price on those 20s, if everything else is good. You could probably sell them for at least that in a year if/when you find something bigger. Free rent, minus the gas...
  19. @Westcoastdrums, I resurrected an old PM, last time we spoke you were sharing a cache of Klipsch speakers from a closed cinema with the community for a song.
  20. @John kal, those are nice speakers and a damn fair price with those “upgrades”, ESPECIALLY up here. That’s like a minimum $400 CDN upgrade after exchange, shipping and duty. About what you will spend on gas to see them, lol. But you may find them a little “bright”. Some serious solid state watts will excite the woofers to be sure. Where are you located and what speakers and amp are you using now?
  21. I immediately noticed the the red and black, in and out leads to the autoformer. That just makes sense. Not choking the capacitors with tightened zip ties makes sense too.
  22. Question? What value cap would I shunt across the woofer If I wanted cross at 400hz using the 2.4mH inductor in series? And would I need to change the polarity of any drivers?
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