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Hello ! Good news 😄 In my opinion Klipsch should clearly indicate in the manual of its HERITAGE, that the speakers must relax about 100 hours before giving a big sound. Many users are initially disappointed when the speakers are stiff. And to reassure you a little more, patience, here is the opinion of Steve Huff https://www.stevehuffphoto.com/2020/04/13/klipsch-cornwall-iv-speaker-review-the-gentle-giant/ They are massive but never overpower my 12X13 room. I can turn it up to concert levels and yet no boom, no harshness, no shouting, no ear fatigue at all. Rather, after 100 hours of break in these speakers kept changing and finally settled in to a speaker that does so much right, and so little wrong. The first 100 hours? They were a tad flat, soft and closed in sounding. After 100 hours they opened up dramatically and came into their own. UPDATE: After 150 hours the sound got worse. Flatter, as if the bass dropped off. I ran them in music room #2 for weeks and then when I brought them back to my main system they sounded totally different again. After 400 hours they are simply incredible, some of the best speakers I have ever heard. Break in IS real but the good news is no need to worry about it, just play them and play them and one day you will say “DAMN THESE SOUND SOOOO GOOD”!

Welcome Yes I confirm ask Bob Crites what he has as a solution for you: either a diaphragm for K77 or a CT125 which will repair your beautiful Heresy 😄

Hi @Dave A Note: I am French, so be careful if my English is misleading, looking at the diagrams will be explicit, thank you. To let some energy pass through the top of the spectrum, you have to put a capacitor on the 10ohm resistor. The value will be to try and choose according to the desired effect, the higher the value will be (for example 1uF) and the more you will increase the treble at a low frequency (for example 10KHz). The lower the value will be (for example example 0.22uF) the more you will increase the treble at a high frequency (for example 15KHz). Try capacitors of 1.5, 1.0, 0.82, 0.68, 0.56, 0.47, 0.33, 0.22, 0.1 ... Note: to refine the value you should know the impedance (and or its curve) of the HF 8 or 16 ohm driver, or better measure the influence of the capacitor, but you can test very well by ear and choose what you like. In this second example we still have the capacitor to let energy pass up to the treble, but we want to temper its effect a bit so that the treble is less strong. In this case we put a resistance so that less treble does not pass, but always more than before. Try resistance of 8.2, 6.8, 5.6,4.9, 3.9, 3.3,2.2, 1.2, ... ohms

Salut, Bravo for the progress, I think the speakers will relax over time and that in the end the sound will be excellent. Just for the test and while waiting for the end of the break-in: You can put a resistance of 1.2ohm on the + of the H cable (Medium / treble) and tell us if it's better: it's simple and there is no has no risk for the material.

Cousins from 1971 https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/147946-1971-cornwall-c-wr-15/

Hi @ RobC63 Your Codes C = Cornwall WO = Walnut Oiled Common J = 1971 Here is the discussion thread regarding Klispch Heritage code numbers

Try to put the right speaker a little more in the right corner of your room and the left one more towards the opening and close to the back wall. The interior angles of mine are 2 or 3 cm (~1") from the back wall. Mine

No not necessarily 😋 but it could possibly be better for the bass 😜

Hi @moray james Your idea is excellent, but our friend is French and lives on the splendid Reunion Island, it is paradise for surfing, but for HiFi I doubt that there is much Klipsch Heritage on its beautiful island to go and listen to, especially beautiful and new CWIV ! https://www.reunion.fr/pratique/l-ile-de-la-reunion

Hi @SpeedLimit My Cornwall are also black ash, black fabrics, no defect on the grid, it seems that the new series CWIV and HIV often have this defect reported on the forums: I know at least 1 pair of CWIV (yours) and 2 HIV with this same grid defect on our HCFR forum: in my opinion somebody should send the info back to the factory so that they correct this defect on their production line> either too much glue during production, or some something moves in the packaging during transport. In test and while waiting to find the right choice of amp (s) and / or that your K33E break in> You can also try to put a resistance of good quality for speaker filter of 1.2 or 2.2 ohms between the cable and the + terminal of input H (if you still have the jumpers in place, you remove the + jumper and replace it with the resistance and you put the cables on L). This will reduce the high midrange a bit by 1 or 2 db and bring the lower end of the spectrum to the fore, if you take the test tell us what you think. You can also test the bi-amp and play on the level control of the amps: more level on the bass amp and a little less on the midrange / treble one. Test with an XLi800 Crown (or equivalent) in the bass (K33E) for example, it's cheap and it works very well. As a preamp I have a McIntosh C504, I have used it for over twenty years and I still love it. The advantage of McIntosh preamps (and others too) is that you can add a few db around 30Hz (not 100Hz as often), it's good for the bass and it's also a much more aesthetic alternative to the subwoofer for the living room. Salut SpeedLimit, Mes Cornwall sont aussi frêne noir, tissus noir, aucun défaut sur les grilles, il semble que les nouvelles séries CWIV et HIV aient souvent ce défaut de rapporté sur les forums : je connais au moins 1 paire de CWIV (la tienne) et 2 HIV avec ce même défaut de grille sur notre forum HCFR : à mon sens il faudrait que quelqu'un fasse remonter l'info à l'usine pour qu'ils corrigent ce défaut sur leur ligne de fabrication > soit trop de colle à la fabrication, soit quelque chose bouge dans l'emballage lors du transport. En test et en attendant de trouver le bon choix d'ampli(s) et /ou que tes K33E se rodent > Tu peux aussi essayer de mettre une résistance de bonne qualité pour filtre d'enceinte de 1.2 ou 2.2 ohms entre le câble et la borne + de l'entrée H (si tu as toujours les cavaliers en place, tu enlèves le cavalier des + et tu le remplaces par la résistance et tu mets les câbles sur L). Cela réduira un peu le Médium aigu de 1 ou 2 db et mettra en avant le bas du spectre, si tu fais le test dis nous ce que tu en penses. Tu peux aussi tester la bi-amp et jouer sur le réglage de niveau des amplis : plus de niveau sur l'ampli de basse et un peu moins sur celui des médiums/aigus. Teste avec un XLi800 Crown (ou équivalent) dans les graves (K33E) par exemple, c'est pas cher et ça marche très bien. En préamp j'ai un McIntosh C504, je l'utilise depuis plus de vingt ans et je l'adore toujours. L'intérêt des préamplis McIntosh (et d'autres aussi) est que tu peux rajouter quelques db vers 30Hz (pas 100Hz comme souvent), c'est bon pour les basses et c'est aussi une alternative au subwoofer beaucoup plus esthétique pour le salon.

Hi, Covid 19 > We have been confined since Friday, October 29, here in France, and that for at least 4 weeks (until December 1 minimum): and in addition curfew from 9:00 p.m. we are not allowed to go in the street , so no Halloween party for us. But since we have 4 children (12 to 18 years old), we made homemade burggers and a little bag of candy to party with the family

Salut and Let's go 😄 Yes, we use a lot of words that come from English, it's very trendy, especially since WW2 and then following the Rock years: Elvis> Beatles> Flower Power (US West Coast)> Punk> New Wave > .... But be careful, many words from home come from French, and even some words we travel France> England > and now again France C'est Cool Some examples, the list is long > https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Influence_du_français_sur_l'anglais

Thank @Munc And McIntosh and Cary, other American Built Muscle 😜 😄

I only have the CD version (Pouark 🤢 ) I may have the vinyl one day This battle is so good 🤪 Dave Grohl's tribute to this little girl, he is so impressed that he gives her a mega surprise and it's unique in rock!

Hi, The AT170ML is the very very great MM with the famous MicroLine (Microridge) and Boron Cantilever 😍 https://www.ad-na.com/en/product/jewel/product/microridge.html for the retipig there is a Russian who does repairs with MicroLine and a cantilever in Boron, tries to contact him to know if he can repair yours. There is also this blog on AT170ML / AT150ML there too see if it can help you out? https://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/stylus-retipping-service-phono-cartridge-specialist-from-russia-moscow.686418/page-7 https://www.picuki.com/tag/atml170 Otherwise the other radical solution is to leave the body of the 170 in its box and take a new VM740ML which also has the famous MicroLine, but with a conical aluminum catilever. Aluminum is less noble than Boron, but Audiotechnica engineers announce that they have greatly improved their cartridge with a much better bass than in the past and still with this wonderful treble. 😄

We're gonna do an AT club here 😍 For 45 years of HiFI vinyl I have also had other very good ones: AKG, Empire, Stanton 881S, Denon DL103, Dynavetor Karat Ruby, ...

Yes the dust is often visible in the photos of turntables, but not to the everyday eye, fortunately 😋

I confirm the ATs are great and very well balanced for our vinyls. The new VM range is very good from low to high, I love my VM740ML In the 80s I had this splendid AT33 and I have fond memories of it.

I saw that you are talking about furniture for records and for HiFi a few pages ago, here is mine that I made in 2009: it does not bend under the enormous weight of LPs, MDF boards because they do not flex, and spacers to support the weight: nothing moves Detail of the moldings and the furniture's finishing decorations, we can't see it in the photos but I also put moldings for the junction with the ceiling

Hi everyone, Limited edition for the worldwide: 2000 copies I'm Hot Tuna Fan 🤤

AT cartridges are fabulous with splendid sound. This AT set is extraordinary for the price. 😍

Another

Next to my house, Roman bridge "Le Pont du Gard" : aqueduct which supplied the baths and water of the city of Nîmes, Gard France. It is almost 2000 years old, The stones are placed one on top of the other without cement because at the time there was none.. In the middle of the 18th century, a road bridge was attached to the first floor to transport goods.

Yes, I had the plates made with Amy's text, but as I am in France and the engraver no longer works at Klipsch, I had them made here by an artisan. Yes I try to keep my Heritage CWIII splendid, like at the factory 😍

@dtel It is repaired 😜