Srinath

Yea like your palms. Yes you're right, the true fake stuff really is that vinyl paper. Some veneers they use are very very thick - like those Yamaha NS1000. Which BTW I have and those suckers are notoriously hard to drive. I have a Nak PA7 that's about the only amp that can drive those to where I am happy. I have to try the Big Yamaha's though, MX1000 and up. The M80 was gutless on those and sounded like it was about to die on my friends B&W801. However, one time, we had the speaker wires touching each other (yea using jumper cable sized wires has its down sides, don't ask) and the M80 didn't even care, it was still working 10 mins later when we noticed the sound was cutting out a bit and fixed it. However I prefer proper wood, or plywood. Anyway bigger speakers out of wood is impractical, so plywood is the best bet there. Cool. Srinath.

Sansui ??? No. Or Yamaha - heck, doesn't even matter, never seen A CA/BA set regardless of make. However DSP3090 into EV SP12B fronts, ESS heil mid's in a room with 2 listening areas, 2 RCA linaeum rear's and the RCA linaeum fitted center made the crappie acoustics in my old living room, almost immaterial. It sounded better than anything else in that spot. Of course that's not 2 channel per-se. However Into those same EV's run as simple stereo - still very very impressive. Not quite in the Marantz 2230 class, but very very impressive. Thanks. Srinath.

I am one of those OOOOOOOHHHHH crap people. Thanks. Srinath.

I could take one of them off your hands if you'd trade me - but where are you - In US ? Where ? Trade for SS amps of higher power obviously, or receivers or speakers. Cool. Srinath.

I'll be trying a KLF10 as a center to my Khorns. Why ??? cos I only have 1 KLF10. LOL. Lets see how it matches up. Cool. Srinath.

A set of tweeters or any driver with a serious VC rub or a defective VC (missing enamel on it) will present to the amp as a dead short, and since XO depends on impedance, it being 0 can be the only one that plays (or the woofer has no upper limit in the XO in some cases) then it gets all the signal all the time, its own internal impedance prevents it from playing everything - either case, a short will show to the amp as such, and drive it to death easily. Cool. Srinath.

Fluidcool - You certainly have helped me. And I have a Khorn I'd be likely doing something on (most likely new XO components). Thanks for posting. Cool. Srinath.

I can see how they got 1 wrong ... but 2 woofers and 2 tweeters - In fact I can see how they got both woofers wrong - In a mass produced environment if you get 1 wrong, likely the machine that made it was off for several hours and cranked out 1000's. In the early 2000's I bought spark plugs for my bike, from 2 different stores on the same day - both without threads. Wish I had kept it, I was so mad, I went back and the guy swapped out both, even though I only got 1 from them. That explains 2 messed up woofers, but how tweeters too ??? Cool. Srinath.

Oooo I actually thought Crites parts were the schnitz. Were these the eminence "speced to Crites" spec. Are his XO's any good ??? Or you're back to factory on those too ??? I may need to do something like this on my Khorn's. Just buy high quality replacement gold cap is what I was thinking, but Crites and a few others also crossed my mind. Thanks. Srinath.

No way to contact them = no one except the clueless will bother. The true snakes will have email and maybe even a number and will talk your ears off and jerk you around. Cool. Srinath.

Also another item on these late 90's early 2000's amps from Yamaha - the whole world glazes over this. The DSP2070 is 1/2 the amp the DSP3090 is. The 2070 was the base for the 3090 and is rated similar - but 3090 leaves it in the dust. The A1 is slightly better than the 3090 on output. but processing power for HT its probably not. A1 doesn't have floppy selector knob issue but display issues are more prevalant on it. On paper A1 is 120 watts vs 80 for the 3090. 3090 is probably higher than the 80 its rated as. The DSPAX1 - may be on paper superior to the A1 - but sonically it is not. The RX-V1 - on paper is the AX1 with a tuner. Possibly so, my AX1 is a jap spec silver (100 V input) my RXV1 is regular US spec. It works fine, but its a bit dry sounding. I have had 2 of these, and still own 1. The RX-Z1 - On paper its bigger and better than the RX-V1 - yes it is, but its dry and sharp as the dickens. I have only heard it for a few mins, don't own one of these. The RX-Z9. I owned 2 of them, including 1 that I extensively repaired. Impressive amp, but sonically its between the A1 and the V1, not as dry as the V1 but not as musical as the A1. Its massive configurability has on more than one occasion has tripped up my "tune by ear" tendency as well as the need to swap stuff out @ random. None of these have HDMI, I don't know what has the sonics of the A1 and HDMI - but if you guys know - let me know. Cool. Srinath.

That's where the picture was lifted from. Seasoned scam artists due to both laziness and to hide personally identifiable information use pics off the net. I'm writing a manual on how to scam post aren't I. Anyway the king of bait and switch lives close to my old house. Cool. Srinath.

Oh yea and I know why too. He's probably trying to do interference of the cornwalls for $550, so he can make them look overpriced - Or rather - even much more overpriced - These - https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/ele/5911404765.html BTW he was gonna fix them but doesn't say what was wrong with them to start with ???? How do I know this - there was one fool who used to do it in my town. He had crap he'd ask outrageous prices for, and never even post pics and lived 50 miles from the nearest bit of civilization and be shooting for 2X the highest ebay asking price. But if I post something with a reasonable price, then he'd put ads for 1/4th my price, complete with pics and it will be on beautiful furniture (which wont even fit in that fool's trailer) that he'd find on the net. I was selling a KR9600 one time, I fixed it and it was good condition asking I think 300-350 some like that. This fool puts up a mint, and I mean, mint KR9600 for something like $60. I never call or email to check if something is a scam, but at that time I had almost 2 other KR9600's with 2 different problems and I looked at this as a golden opportunity to fix those 2 without losing this one. I email, and set up a meet. He never shows, I call him from there, and he's acting flaky, my friend also calls him, independent of me, and he tells him, sorry, this Indian guy came and got it, I just have this other one for $700. Looks the same as this one. This fool has repeated it with several other amps and speakers I have sold. Just not to this extent. Cool. Srinath.

I always get the sansui 3000 or 3000a and the 3000b (which doesn't exist) only that B3000 pos you pulled up does - sorry The amp is a sansui 3000 or sansui 3000a - Its silver face and cap coupled. The face is part gold and part black, had a wooden sleeve and otherwise its cover had a rust colored paint job. BTW a B3000 is a bad copy of a carver M1.0 high voltage section. The Kenwood KM series (looks very very similar to the B3000 too) is a better copy. IMHO. DSP3090 for 50 - I'd have jumped on it inspite of having 2, if it didn't cost 50 to ship it - and its got 2 common issues. Display blanking out, partially blanking out etc, and the selector knob being floppy and wandering. I've had 5 of these, and I kept the 2 that had the best selector knob, the display can be fixed, the selector knob cant. I am sorry, we have all heard of the $10 SX1250 story, and if I told you my purchase price for my current Khorn or my Jamboree, you'd run right now and buy a dsp3090 @ that $50. Price is no indication of anything. My lowest DSP3090 was $75, the highest was $100. I still like it more than my nakamichi PA7 that cost me near 10x that 75. If I was to get a purchase price refund on all my amps, the dsp 3090 will be one of the last to leave my hands. In fact I'd keep that and my $20 EV's and the $20 Heil 3 pack. I'll set up my HT room with Khorn and EV and Heil and call you over to listen, what else can I say, I'd put a DSP3090 against anything (but I also know some old cap coupled amps will trounce it just for musicality) But I wont say all vintage amps will beat it. SX1250 no comparison to the DSP3090, sx2500, oh yea kills a dsp3090. Thanks. Srinath.

I should clarify - In a way I am speaking out of both sides of my mouth. I am being very very very picky in new gear and saying it drops into the middle and upper middle of the old. That's not quite fair, cos these were meant to do specific things (some of which we don't even remember anymore - like for example the SX1250 was meant to have synergy with the CS99 wasn't it and the 1980 with HPM1500's) and I'm cherry picking the receiver and the speaker set in the new. So saying a 1250 is not sharp and a 1980 is too sharp is just BS. In the 70's you can stand in a football field filled with speakers and amps, throw a rock into the amp gallery, pull that amp out, repeat with speakers and end up with lets say a sound quality that you'd need, 300,000 tries to beat in 2016. Random vs random, you'd never make it. I may have heard 300,000 items. And I've seen maybe 3-4 I'll drop into the pantheon of 70's gear. I have a Marantz sr8001 that makes me want to get a bigger newer Marantz. HK 7000 and 8000. many pre/pro combo's are good. But they're built like a vintage pre/pro set. If proceed built a amp 2 similar to a 70's 125 watter using nearly the same spec mosfets and same spec power supplies wont it sound rather like it escaped from the 70's. Also 70's amps likely still have 99% of their 70's components - worn, out of spec, about to give up. New - may have 25 yrs of design spec'ed life left (or may have died and gone to the dump already) and I have a working onkyo TX-SR 605 I pulled from the dump, with an inch of standing water in it when pulled and dried and then plugged in - well, as proof that people even tossed working stuff in the dump. Thanks. Srinath..

Even a dyed in the wool vintage nut like me (I must have 30 silver face for 1 black face) wont agree with this cover all statement. I'll put a Yamaha DSP3090, and an A1 against anything made in the 70's if you have speakers like a Klipsch heritage series. In fact on my EV's I really thought I was listening to tubes on the 3090. Yea some vintage amps will be better. But these are not that far down. Of course you want to run a inefficient drifting current hungry speaker like a carver amazing, you'd fry the 3090, but then again you're gonna fry a Marantz 2230 or an sx2500 too in short order. sx1250 - yea indestructible, but it also sounds rather blunt and im-precise to my ears. I dunno, I am torn between old and older gear. For example, I'd never put a Z9 in the same league as the 3090 or the a1. Oh, also I have a TAS5630 based kit amp that will smoke most anything this side of the top 2-3 cap coupled amps, and will take a 4 ohm speaker all day long and drive any load that doesn't need high current and run from a tube pre, or a tube buffer sounds like its a 300 watt tube amp. But, well, it was designed from the ground up to do just that. Thanks. Srinath.

I've heard a bunch of em, and I'd say depends on the speakers. Assuming you mean simple whole 1 unit pre/power amp set up's I'd have to say Marantz 2230 for a high spl speaker like a Khorn. However, I have rather different ears. I never liked the 1250 sound, and running them off a different pre (carver c1, c2 or nad 1155) was better, the 1980 was almost the diametric opposite of the 1250 and harsh on any horn based - harsh even for me, which is saying something. I also liked the sx2500, sx1500 and a few others - sansui 3000b - common plot here - cap coupled. But On my NS1000's - all of these were gutless. Those worked best with the Marantz 2325. Or a Nad1155 to a Nakamichi PA7. And on a set of carver amazing AIII's - a proceed amp 5 run off that Nad1155 was the ticket (or carver silver 7's run off a C1) I am still playing with some of these old and less old amps and speakers. So my ears are still learning. Thanks. Srinath.

Obsolete isn't much of a concern for me - I still have amps made 20 yrs ago and think they're better than sliced bread. Them failing is an opportunity to turn them passive as well, so that's not an issue either. However, they also turn ugly when you do that, unless they're designed to be good looking when you make em passive. My bigger concern is that - well, I have tons of high end amplification, will these match up ? I guess these can be better, like for example, I think the TAS5630 amps are awesome when built right, but I cant say for sure these will beat my 90's high end amps. Thanks. Srinath.

Not really looking to buy - I have so much crap, I have even forgotten most of it. But some JBL, EV, altec unholy bast@&# child that sounds great would be my end goal. Thanks. Srinath.

Awesome. I think my emi's will get to 600 just fine, maybe even a bit higher, 800 perhaps, because I would not want to buy those selenium's. Its not like I don't have enough crap lying about. Let me look into what the specs are on the others and compare to the jbl's and the altec 802's. Thanks. Srinath.

I am not committed to a 2 way or a 3 way. Or a 4 way. I would like good sound, I don't even care if I have to get it powered right, cos I have plenty of power, vertical bi amp, horizontal bi amp, bi wire, active XO, passive XO, combination etc etc anything. Adding wood work, not an issue. I also have 1/2 jamboree's with Eminence kappa's which are probably not a true copy but can be set vertically too cos their boxes are cuboid's. Experimenting is the name of the game here. I have high end soft dome mids and tweeters (dynaudio 142 and 100's) I am itching to use. I'd build a separate cabinet for these, have them movable and turnable so I can direct it etc etc, also I can mount these in the vent of the bass bin. Or the face plate of the bass bin, but that may be too low for a tweeter, however if its sound is carried by the woofer's air, it sounds like a point source. I also have other soft domes (realistic, RCA, Curtis Mathis - don't laugh, I paid $6 for the speaker @ goodwill and took the tweeters off in the parking lot and donated it back, all in 3 mins these are damn good soft domes), hard domes, ribbon's, etc etc to cover the highs. The jbl2405's were my first go to, but they don't like to be crossed over under 8k. So I need to fill that gap between kappa 15's upper and the JBL's lower range. An altec 511 coupled to a 802 driver will nicely cover 800 up and be happy doing so to the tune of 105 spl. This Gauss cetec I have also could do 250-10k I believe. Don't know if it will fit the 511 or the HR60 EV I got, I'll experiment when its all in my new house. But anyone have anything I should try out first ? Thanks. Srinath.

You have a altec 511 fitted to what kind of bass bin is that ? a pair of 12's - I have a JBL spec bass bin that was also designed to be a coffee table, that can be modded to take a 511 or an 811. It will then just be a very tall coffee table - It had a JBL that is speced as a 12 but has a 13.5" or so basket - whatever that one is, I was modding it to take a straight 15 altec or EV and tilting the front baffle upward a few degrees, and extending it to take the 511/811 combo with a 802 altec driver. And what's on the top of the 511 ??? Thanks. Srinath.

I have a 3080 and have owned a 3090 a few years ago. Awesome amps. But I associate that NAD series with a soft dome preference. Those NAD's are rather precise, a horn could get a bit harsh. Mellow them out via soft dome is what I think. Of course each ones ears are different, and a 3020 aint no 3090 (not heard the 3080 much yet). Thanks. Srinath.

First gen connie - AKA, Eli engine donor. I have had a few. Just have to use the bevel drive form the eli, else you'd be spinning like you're in 4th gear when in 6th. Instant close ratio transmission baby. Or fit the Connie's rear wheel, not the eli's 15". But well, easier to use the eli's bevel on backward. In fact post 98 or 99 Connie's have better valve trains than the 86-98, whose intakes recede into the head. Thanks. Srinath.

My next bike is going to be a brit, german or Italian old man twin - read modern Triumph bonnie variant, BMW R1200c, or Moto guzzi stone or something like that. I have a thing for parallel twins that's for sure. Thanks. Srinath.