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Staples

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  1. Moray, for me, if it doesn't come out of a spray paint can it isn't going to happen. I don't have air spray equipment. I'll experiment with some textured metallic paint in black, after laying down a base coat of satin black. I'll also try multicolored textured paint instead of metallic. For the back, I'll probably use satin black. On the grill frame as well. For the base, a glossy black enamel.
  2. I got that these are two different materials. What I was asking was how to mimic the textured surface because I want the textured surface. I am appreciative of the lessons and your time.
  3. Moray, I'll be doing it myself. I'll try a few things out and compare.
  4. You're suggesting that the lacquer is the same as when you built Cornwalls with plywood, but because it is MDF it creates a textured surface?
  5. Yes. Is baffle the correct word? Where the components are screwed into. And, if the back is the same as the baffle or different. I assume the black base is not textured, but is it glossy or flat. Just looking for advice, experience, or knowledge. Such as from someone who owns one or works on them.
  6. HDBR builder, I'm not trying to be difficult with my response, but my point is I simply want paint/varnish suggestions for the motor board, base, and back that is being used today in models such as the Cornwall III, Heresy IIi, Forte III. They all look similar, to my eye, from pictures on the site. I'm not changing components, I'm not moving the woofer up, I'm not moving components to front mounting, I'm not adding a terminal cup. I have a standard Cornwall I from 1984, CBR. B-3 network. Serial 8404603. They were varnished, I believe, after they left the factory.
  7. I can post pics, but it is Cornwall III special edition that I'm trying to mimic. So, it is less about the past and more about the future.
  8. I tried what you suggested and it didn't work. the grain was less raised and more open. Very deep fissures and I couldn't get anything to get down in there and affect the color. After playing around a bit, including trying to get a diluted dye down in there, I gave up and moved forward with the waxing. Here is the final output for these two speakers. I've redone the grill cover since the picture was taken so it is tighter now. This is the look I wanted, so I'm pleased. However, this has taken so long that I have sold the Forte II that I was originally testing all of this for. https://photos.app.goo.gl/9BAm1nfPNPvkwRbQ9 I have a KV2 in oak as well, but the finish was different. It didn't respond well to the same treatment with the weathering solution. I tried the varathane weather grey on it and that didn't work well either. I settled upon the diluted die, a mix of grey and worn navy, and then the briwax. I'll post a picture later.
  9. Howdy, I've started a rebuild of a beat up pair of Cornwall I. I've got them sanded down and I'm doing edge and corner filling now. The crossovers are rebuilt with Crite's kit. I want to make these look as much like the California Black Walnut special edition speakers as possible. To that end I've purchased some figured walnut veneer that looks similar to the black walnut look and some Wichelt linen for the grill covers. My question is about the black paint/varnish used on the motor board, back, and base for the Cornwall III special editions. Is this a flat black paint/varnish? Is it different on the different parts? Looking at pictures it appears that the motor board paint has a textured finish, possibly metallic. Is this the case? Does the back have the same or is it basic black? Flat, satin, glossy? I like the look from the main website pictures and want to replicate that as much as possible. Thanks for any help.
  10. I finally took some action using a beat up pair of KG4 as the tests. I used old masters furniture restorer to prepare the surface. I sanded to get out water stains and other damage, working towards 220 grit. I prepared a weathering solution using steel wool and vinegar. I applied said solution and what I got can be seen in the pictures. As you can see it did not penetrate into the open grain of the oak. So, I have gray on top and brown in the grain. In one picture you can see a riser which is a lighter gray. This is the same as above, but I finished by applying liming wax. This filled in the grain and made it white and lightened the overall look. My wife likes the gray and brown more than the gray and liming wax. I'm undecided. What do those on the board think? My intent is to replace the grill cloth with something appropriate for a gray finish and sell cheaply just to move them out of the house. As for the Forte II that started the thread, I'm going to veneer those with figured walnut.
  11. I have not. Below, Moray James posted about the vinegar and steel wool method. That is what I tried testing a month or so ago. I bought a thin piece of oak at Home Depot, sectioned it off, and tried various methods using the solution to try from barn wood grey all the way to black. I bought some wine tannins to create a solution to brush on the wood to make the reaction produce a darker stain. I'll take a photo of my test plank. Then I took a pair of old, oiled oak KG4 risers and attempted to duplicate the results. It didn't work. What I haven't taken the time to do, and this is my next step, is to really sand down the oak veneer before applying the solution. Obviously, I'll be careful not to go through the veneer.
  12. My understanding is that the Theater bar is NOT a sound bar. It is a left/center/right set of speakers in a single housing. As such, by itself it is a 3.0 setup. With your AVR you can connect the Theater bar and your KG 1s for 5.0, add a subwoofer for 5.1.
  13. I bought a walnut 450ca to go along with a pair of walnut Quartets and I am dissappointed that the veneers are not even close. The 450ca is a very dark brown. Is this real walnut veneer or a different wood that has been stained walnut? I read elsewhere that the wood may be hickory. Is there a definite answer?
  14. I did not realize that modern walnut veneer Klipsch was not walnut. This explains why my new 450ca center in walnut looks nothing like my quartets l/r. Which I am bothered by and would not have paid the extra money for the ca version if I had known. Your post tells me that there is no use trying to rework the finish on the 450ca because it's foundation is hickory.
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