k2dx

I would like a pair please. Fred

Why can't you stick to audio and Klipsch? Bleeding heart liberals will do anything for attention. Maybe if you're so concerned about some dusty relics you could hop a flight to Baghdad and be a human shield at the museum.

Thanks Art. I've been reading them every chance I get. Fred

Many thanks Art. You have been generous to share them....I can't wait! Fred

I mailed payment Friday evening, but with the snow it may be a few days.... Thanks, Fred

I sure would like a set...please send an address to send payment to or paypal... Fred --k2dx@arrl.net-- (remove anti spam dashes)

Looks very good Craig. Easy to look at - nice work Mobile- and seems to go fast (12:30 AM). Comcast has been slow at times lately, sometimes even to the point of making me think I had a computer problem, so don't worry too much. The slow periods usually aren't too long here in NJ. It still has to be better than dealing with the telephone company and dsl!! Best of luck !! Fred

Just watched the program. It was excellant. If anyone missed it look for reruns.

Just watched the program. It was excellant. If anyone missed it look for reruns.

NOS440 works on Scott amplifiers, try a search here. There is a Photofact on ePay right now with a reasonable Buy It Now. They have good parts layouts. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1940718461 For discussions, have you checked the vintage Scott website? http://www.hhscott.com/ Also, the Audio Asylum, http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/vintage/bbs.html Good luck with it. Please post your progress here.

It seems about the same to me (cable). But it never was "fast". I agree, way too many bells and whistles.

Yeah...$25 is an awful lot to spend for at least a pair of t35 tweeters....

Here is a repost of two methods to retrieve ambience from stereo recordings: http://nanaimo.ark.com/~pat/surround.jpg (I came across this the other nite). DIY the free way..... The original Dynaco method of ambience retrieval (from the David Hafler days) is as follows: Connect the two rear speakers in series, + to -. Connect the remaining rear terminals, a + and a - from each, to the two front + connections. I used this method for years, it works well BUT....not all recordings have ambience information to retrieve. Some may have none. The effect isn't overwhelming, like discreet quad channels or Dolby or DTS etc. Seems that Pink Floyd (DSOTM) was a good recording to try. You probably won't need a rear level control, but if you do use a SERIES connected fader, only two terminals. One end and the center. Leave the other end unconnected.

Here it is: http://nanaimo.ark.com/~pat/surround.jpg (I came across this the other nite). DIY the free way..... The original Dynaco method of ambience retrieval (from the David Hafler days) is as follows: Connect the two rear speakers in series, + to -. Connect the remaining rear terminals, a + and a - from each, to the two front + connections. I used this method for years, it works well BUT....not all recordings have ambience information to retrieve. Some may have none. The effect isn't overwhelming, like discreet quad channels or Dolby or DTS etc. Seems that Pink Floyd (DSOTM) was a good recording to try. You probably won't need a rear level control, but if you do use a SERIES connected fader, only two terminals. One end and the center. Leave the other end unconnected.

What type of magnets are used in the University drivers that older Klipsch speakers used? Eg. mid-t tweeter, SAHF midrange?

The older tweeters and midranges were 16 0hms, EV units would be marked but Klipsch branded may just have a logo sticker. Great Plains has the tooling to make 16 ohm diaphgrams for the t35 if they don't have any in stock. EV doesn't supply them anymore. An eMail inquiry will get the info. As for what impedance you need, my crossovers are the old 500/5000 and they use 16 ohms. I am not able to say when Klipsch changed to 8 ohms. Maybe '65 or newer?

Tom, Here's another place that can repair EV/Klipsch tweeters, or supply diaphgrams. They are the ONLY source I can find for 16 ohm diaphgrams. http://greatplainsaudio.50megs.com/ Fred

Craig, Would you want to share your component preferences for a 299b? Any thoughts on the Vacuum Tube Valley 'rebuild kits'? Fred

A tester to watch for is the military type TV-7 series (and the more deluxe TV-10). They show up on ePay as well as elsewhere, sometimes very reasonable and sometimes pricey. Most were made by Hickok, but other manufacturers also made them to milspec. These are all well made. There are several techs that service and calibrate them, as well as the usual excellent military manuals are available. I have a TV-7 made by Hickok that looks like it came from a time warp. I found it through a 'tester wanted' post I put on another BB. Paid $75. I had a TV-10 years ago and gave it away... With patience you can find a good tester. Maybe a post on Audio Asylum 'Tube Forum' would be productive.

Great Plains Audio can help you. (and reasonably!) http://greatplainsaudio.50megs.com/ You should not change the 16 ohm impedance. They have the tooling to make 16 ohm EV diaphgrams...

Looks like a SAHF University driver, as used in early khorns. Should be a nice sounding driver if it is.... University logo and nomenclature was usually a decal on the rear...may be gone now. The L1 and L2 markings are the same as a SAHF....

Have you looked inside the amp for a switch labeled 'mono' or 'bridge'? The connection for the speaker would be the two positive terminals. The bridge mode will split the input signal (from usually the left input)to the two channels, OUT OF PHASE. Just using a 'y' connector on the inputs is not the way to accomplish bridging. You can use a 'y' input with seperate subs connected to each output however.

Hey Ed! Good to see you're digging into the st70. Adjusting the bias should be done measuring the idling current through the tube or pair of tubes being set. This probably is done indirectly by measuring a voltage drop across a resistor. I think some amps had a jack you could insert a milliampmeter in line directly to measure the current. Measuring the voltage drop across a resistor will also give you the current using Ohm's law, I=E/R. The best way to set bias would be to have a pot for each output tube, then you wouldn't need to "match" tubes in a pair. But you don't want to mix tube brands in a pair. The idling current sets the class of operation for the tube...class A highest idling current,least efficiency,less power, best sound. Less idling current for class AB, more power and higher efficiency, but sound not as good as class A. Your amp probably calls for class AB1 or AB2 settings being a push pull. Maybe on Audio Asylum, Tube Forum, someone could give you specific advice on the st70. I don't think 715 or 716 caps would be my choice.

excuse the double post.