henry4841

A quick check https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/marantz/1060.shtml shows it was made 1971 till 1978. That is actually a long time for a piece of audio gear back then. I wonder if the earlier versions used veneer on plywood though it really does not matter in the least. The expensive part of the cab is the walnut veneer.

Marantz had some of the nicest looking gear in the 70's. Pricey back then and more so today. Both of the 1060's look really nice. A trick I learned from a guy on youtube for the old wood cabinets. He used some of the automotive hand cleaners such as Goop. I do not like GoJo because of the smell but it should work as well. It will clean and oil the wood at the same time. I gel stain for scratches. Fruitwood gel stain matches most walnut I have done. An iron and wet wash cloth will raise dents and gouges but one has to be careful not to get the finish too hot if it has a lacquer or poly finish or you will have to sand and finish the entire surface. Which is really not that big a job being a cabinet is not that big. You do not find walnut veneered plywood these days for audio gear.

Class D is the wave of the future. I expect A/B amplifiers to diminish in sales and offerings except in the high end market.

Class D. Anyone know what kind of chip it uses? I admit some of the newer class D offerings good sound for what they cost. My TPA 3255 is almost as good as my expensive A/B amplifier. Sounds like good deal for those on a budget.

Nice. I just started a picture of SS gear thread and maybe you will ask a moderator to move your post there. Good job.

We have a picture of your tube gear thread so not to discriminate I started this thread. The gear from the 70's just have a look you do not find in modern equipment. I did what I would call a complete restoration of this Sony receiver. Replaced all the electrolytic capacitors except one that checked fine that I did not have in stock. Forgive me but I did not want to combine 2 to make the correct value. Cleaned the pots and aligned. Did some repairs to the beautiful walnut case and it now sits in my bedroom. I had a Sony receiver in the 70's and in my opinion was one of the best looking ones ever made.

I am sure you are like me and get a laugh out of some of these post about something as simple as a capacitor. I still say manufacturing technics and quality control is more important then dielectric used. I stock a large assortment of capacitors for repairs and test them before installing and find differences of specs in brands for value and ESR with same dielectric. If I had my choice with price no object it would be Nichicon. When price is a consideration I have found Wurth Elektronik brand to be adequate and I buy in quantities of 50 at a time. German brand but made in China as most all electronic parts these days.

Your point. If you disagree with what I posted it is fine, no problem. One can believe anything they care to. It was just my 2 cents. You would be in good company. There are many that disagree with me about a lot of things. All is good. I am sure if you filled a room with audio engineers there would be heated debates on many subjects. PWK carried a button on his lapel.

I like Edcor output transformers. I first built mine with Edcor OPT's but thinking I might improve the sound bought some One Electron OPT and really cannot hear any difference.

I really do not think, nor should anyone else, that what separates the plates of a capacitor if it does it's job adequately should make any difference in the sound. Nothing wrong with polyester but not superior to the more modern polypropylene. I am sure if the cost were the same polypropylene would be used. If one believes any differently they are just fooling themselves. It is just simple mechanics and electronics. But social media boards love to debate such a silly thing as the dielectric used to keep plates of a capacitor apart. Foolishness actually. That being said one is perfectly fine spending their money wisely and buying polyester caps to save money as the engineers at Klipsch have knowing there is no difference in sound. Other manufacturers do the very same thing. That is what engineers do. Find a part that works then try and find a part that does the job just as well saving the company money. They use the specification sheets manufacturers supply to dealers such as Digikey and Mouser for this reason. CBheart, an engineer, stated the facts about inductors which is true. An iron core inductor is not going to saturate in a crossover network and does the job just as well as the more expensive ones saving the company money. Much the same thought on capacitors. But touting some part better then others is what we do on social media boards to generate conflict and debates with long threads. Gives us something to do. 😃

Years ago I experimented with many different capacitors in my crossovers. Just playing around. Different brands do sound different to my ears. We all do not hear the same and we do not have the same listening room. Many buy Crites crossovers and like the sonicaps. Possible have over damped rooms where they may shine. Much the same with different coupling caps in tube amplifiers. Brands do sound different. Probably has to do with the manufacturing process and quality control since they have much the same spec's on paper. At low to mid volumes one will not hear much if any difference between brand of caps. It is when you crank them up you start to hear differences. The most important thing is IF YOU LIKE THE SOUND YOU NOW HAVE LEAVE THEM ALONE. Why try and fix what is not broken.

My 86 AL crossovers came from the factory without the diodes. Go figure, from all accounts they should have had them. I am using AA crossovers now with no diodes with no problems with the K77 tweeter.

The reason so many have been replaced. Granted with reasonable listening levels they will work just fine.

When I say delicate we are talking only 5 watts before failure. My kids blew my tweeters on two occasions when they were but a few years old. I do not think age has anything to do with it. That being said the ones I now have in my speakers are over 20 years old without giving a problem with just me listening with them. KIDS

You are correct Tom but for the 2.5 vs 2.4 inductor it is 1st order. The first crossover A was 1st order both ways. The 3rd order for the tweeter was to protect the delicate tweeter. Still 3rd is nowhere near what they are using now. From what I have read steeper crossovers are what is used in the newer models.

If one thinks the inductors need replacing ,well thinking that way why not replace the speaker voice coils as well because they are inductors. Wire wrapped around a paper core. Really thin wire as well. I am sure the glue holding it to the paper core is not what it was when made. Wire wrapped in a circle is a definition of an inductor. Just replace everything old. The box is old as well and the glue joints are failing along with the nails holding it together so one needs to build a new cabinet with this kind of thinking.

Would be close enough in my world. AA's are 1st order crossovers where values are not that critical. I noticed that CBHeart wants your old square caps. Technicians know film caps in crossover networks, and for that matter old electronic gear, rarely just fail and hold their values pretty good. Not a hard working electronic piece in a crossover network. Unless they are leaking probably still good. That being said they are sure ugly and I would probably replace just because. I restore old equipment and just replace the electrolytics and leave the films alone unless they are known to fail such as really old tube electronics. The theory being destroying the old sound many enjoy. I really do not know any restorer of old equipment either in person or online sources that replace film caps in old equipment. I cannot see why crossover networks would be any different except from those trying to sell such. It is a crap shoot if replacing caps will be an improvement. Many claim too bright after doing so.

I would replace those caps. Many good options for those. As far as inductors, they do not go bad, or should I say 99.9% still good, in a crossover network and should preform fine. One can always find better but with minimal advantage. Be sure the screw for the round inductor is brass and not steel. Test to see with magnet.

Marvel you are a lucky man to have a son you can pass those speakers to. My kids show no interest in mine so when the time comes they will probably be sold.

Lots of gain with the JC version. Rich has been a friend of mine for many years. Glad he found someone to build his amp for him. I only build for myself. Your build looks great so for. Rich said he is going with the same tubes I use the Gold Lions.

Would you care to show the schematic you are using? Along with the brand of 300b tubes. I used DC on my filaments of my build and Gold Lion 300b's. I used the J.C Morrison 300B schematic with some changes. Using regulated DC on the filaments was one of them.

I have a SE 300b amplifier I built and the SE V-fet does sound much like it but I would leave out the bored but then I like the SE 300b sound. My 300b amplifier is the last one I would part with. The V-fet and SIT single ended amplifiers are 300b sound for those that would only consider a SS amplifier. Many still have misconceptions about tubes.

The selenium drivers do need more attenuation. Not a problem for diy'ers but I do understand for those not electronically inclined where the APT-150 would be a good choice. As I stated good sounding drivers as well. Absolutely nothing wrong with them but there are better ones out there and some are direct replacements for the fragile K-77.

The APT-150 sounds really good but I prefer the Selenium D220TI with a butt cheek horn. I have both. I have no problem with tweeter sitting on top of cab. As above poster said the tweeter can be better aligned with the mid horn.

One personal taste in music also has an important point in which and what kind of speakers one chooses. When I bought my LaScala's I was much younger looking for the live rock concert experience and LaScala's fit the bill perfectly. They will rock and rock hard. As my taste in music has changed and my volume level has decreased in proportion to my age I could get by with a much smaller speaker such as the newer offerings from Klipsch such as tower speakers or even bookshelf speakers. Let's face it the Heritage line are huge speakers with a low WAF. But I still love my speakers that fill the room at low volume levels with no wife to complain about them.