tigerwoodKhorns

Of course, but who listens to the radio anymore? Harder for me to get exposed to it.

Oh yea, and the Beatles good really good after they went to India and did a bunch of drugs with the Rolling Stones and Mia Farrow and her sister, Prudence.

I have Pink Floyd played by a symphony, and I am not a fan, but there is also Metallica played by a symphony which is pretty good.

I need to actually watch the video. If we are talking about Zeppelin, I remember an interview with some famous musician in the 80s who said he would never do a 'ooohhhh baby baby' song which of course Robert Plant did with Zeppelin.

Looks like the Forte IV can be bi amped if you like: https://d2um2qdswy1tb0.cloudfront.net/product-specsheets/Forte-IV-Spec-Sheet-v01-1.pdf But your '30 wpc' amp really is closer to 80 or 100 wpc so you should have plenty of juice. I think that Luxman does not advertise it but the amp goes into class b after 30 wpc and goes much higher in wattage.

Drops to 3.5 ohms, if that has a big phase angle it can be difficult. Forte IV are '8 ohm compatible' - not sure what that means. Do the Forte IVs need a beefy amp to wake up the bass like a Chorus II or can a Forte live with a lower powered amp? Looks like they use relatively big amps in the stereophonic review. To the OP, you can also use your pre outs from the Luxman and Y connectors into an outboard amp with volume pots for the bass driver and back into the Luxman for the high frequencies in Class A if your Focals can be bi amped. You have to have gain controls on the amp to tune this in though. A QSC PLX is a nice option with a fan swap.

The Focals look nice. I cannot find a sensitivity, but they are 4 ohms and might be a difficult load. You will likely pick up about 10 db of efficiency with the Fortes, meaning using only a watt or so. I have barely used my Luxman, but it does run cool or warm. Not bad for Class A which will generate a lot of heat even if only driving a small load.

My thoughts are that music hit a high point in the late 60s and through the 70s, then somewhat crashed in the 80s due to too much of the new hot sauce (synthesizers). It rebounded in the early 90s going 'back to basics' with a lot of great alternative together with a huge amount of crappy alternative. I have seen nothing since that I really like. About ten years ago I had a few 20 year olds delivering some building materials, they were listening to 40 years old (at the time) Hendrix. When I was 20 we did not listed to music from the 1940s (although I do respect the early blues influences to Led Zeppelin) so I am on to something. I do like several other music genres (Disco, folk, Jazz, druggie dance music is surprisingly good on a good system), but these are the big ones.

Nice integrated amp, I have the 20 wpc version. To all else here making recommendation, he has a 30 wpc class A amp, but it is a very beefy 30 wpc. Look at the new Forte IV. Should match very well.

yea, I am going to do that...

THanks

Well yea but we don't know the volts. So a = w / v and v = A x r --> A = w / (A x r) A^2 = w / r so A = Sqrt (w /r) Is this correct?

save me having to look it up, what is the formula for amps to watts? What voltage do you use?

Fuse in pos or negative?

So a belt and suspender solution would be maybe a 2 or 2.5 amp fuse overall and the bulb in the tweeters. Does it matter which leg the protection is on? Electrons flow negative to positive but I always see fuses in the positive leg in auto circuits. This is getting more important as replacement diaphragms are getting expensive.

I was thinking about this, but doesn't it add about 1/2 ohm of resistance to the tweeter? My notes state put it either on the positive or negative leg.

In normal subdivision development fiber needs to be in conduit. In all cases you are likely better off just getting more data from your internet provider.

I would expect your heritage to drown out any in ceiling speaker. If they But I searched for one of the speakers listed and they are horn speakers so probably the most efficient offering out there.

Good to see you Craig. I don't know much about Atmos, but aren't the ceiling speakers for some minor spacial sound effects? What I mean is how much does it really matter what speakers you use.

I am so used to looking at the Type A schematic and not the AA. Thanks.

Correct, he has a different tweeter. So how does the x-over go down from 6K to 4800HZ with the metal screw in the 2.4 inductor? Or did I read this wrong.

No need for this. Just go to the home depot: https://www.homedepot.com/b/Storage-Organization-Moving-Supplies-Moving-Boxes/N-5yc1vZchnc put he woofers face to face with cardboard between (I assume the driver is below the basket in front. Then use .... packing peanuts. Yuck, I know, but if you put the peanuts in grocery bags with a little space left and tie them up, they are form-able cushion that are very useful and clean if you put them in bags. Use several bags of the peanuts to get the speakers in a very solid and protected space.

Here is the 4500 x over, a modified Type A. If the 2.4 MH is only to the woofer as a low pass, how does it change the squaker / tweeter x over point?

K-77 is very limited as to how low it can go. Not so sure about the K77M, I have a pair and I am curious about the lower x over point. Crites sells a modified Type A (or AA, I forget which) that crosses at 4500 Hz, but you have to switch the tweeter out to handle the lower x over. Seems like the screw does the same thing from the factory, intentional or not. To the old hats here, was there a Dope from Hope on this instructing to change out the screw to protect the K77M?

You had me at 'toss excrement' !!! 💩 🤢 🤮