Steve Donalson

Either one you go with will work great. I use DVE, some use AVIA. Just as long as you have one or the other. This disks will help you adjust you tv with the user settable options. A professional calibrator will be able to reprogram software, adjust gray scale, and numerous other tasks that require very expensive tools to do. What will you see? I can't tell you what differences you will notice with your particular set. However, I can say they can do things "you" can not.

This disk, or something similar, will help you yield a much better picture! I highly recommend a calibration disk. It will come with three filters to help you set color and tint correctly. It also offers test patters to help you set contrast, sharpness and brightness properly as well. These things can not be done by just "the eye" mainly because we don't know what we are are looking at is really supposed to look like. Plus there are terms such a "blooming" you may not be aware of and exactly what it is. These disks will cover that for you and explain how to avoid it. It is bad for your set and indictive of having the contrast up too high. With that said, I highly recommend staying out of the service menu if you are not certain to what you are doing. You can render your tv complelely useless with a simple press of the button. Get DVE, or something similar, you will be amazed on how much better your tv looks after you are done. If still not satisfied, then get an ISF professional calibration done. You would never believe your tv could look so good!

Per your request I have removed the statement regarding the useage of devices designed to run on USA voltage. I will admit my ignorance regarding these particular amplifiers. However, I stand behind everything I said regarding the voltage supply provided to us in the USA. Anything not designed to work within our voltage tolerances I would seriously question. Contact your local power company and they will tell you the same thing. With THAT being said anyone who simply plugs these units into common 120vac, without an additional voltage regulator or some other form of protection from our daily supplied power, can encounter the disaterous problems from what you have stated. Now, not trying to start any form of an argument, but after I personaly spoke with a technician at the "Audio Clinic" in Silver Spring, MD, (a Dynaco repair center) he stated to me exactly what I stated in my original post. These units were designed to work of US voltage, ranging from 120vac + and - 10%. For whatever that may be worth.

"110vac" doesn't exist in the USA, it's 120vac. It's commonly called "110" or "115". The truth is that it's 120 with a +/- 10% tolerance, on single phase. You will find 108vac on 3 phase, however. The power company won't check into it unless it goes above 132 or below 108. If it's between 108 and 132 volts, to them, it's ok and within tolerance. The incoming vac will fluctuate considerably throughout the day. It depends on the demand on the lines. Typically you will find the highest voltage of early morning and late evening. Lowest during business hours and/or on very hot days. Same way for "220". "220" doesn't exist in the USA, it's 240, again, on single phase (which is what most have in their home). 2 120vac lines = 240vac +/- 10%. Now, of course, stable line vac will affect what an amp can put out. The more channels driven at high levels the more strain it puts on the AC line. It's very expensive for the typical home owner to install the necessary equipment to truly maintain a constant incoming vac. But, the reality is...chances are you would never hear the difference.

Scooter, If a new ground was added for the sat dish that is prob. where you problem is coming from. I have dealt with ground loops many, many times. What often happens when a sat dish is installed a different grounding location is selected to ground the dish. The potential between this ground and the ground that your electrical outlets connect to is introduced into your system as a 60Hz hum. I have found by simply relocating the dish ground to the same grounding location as everything else will typically resolve this issue with a sat dish.

I have RB-25's for rear surrounds in a 7.1 configuration, in combination with RF7/RC7/RS7 for the rest. They work very well in the rear. I'm quite pleased with their performance. Personally, I like the WDST on the sides and direct radiating in the rears. This combination works very well for me.

If it is still in protect mode when nothing is connected to it(inputs and speakers), reset the processor. The instructions should be in the manual. If that doesn't bring it back, it sounds as though you have shorted output transistors. Repair or replacement would be necessary at that point.

There are separate terminals for the pilot light on the switch. These terminals are the bottom ones on the switch when mounted, and are silver in color, simply remove the wires and tape them up individually so they will not short against anything. If you are uncomfortable to perform this procedure yourself, I would recommend that you have a service center take a look at it. Please let me know if you have any questions.

The switch needs to be replaced. The light inside the switch is going out on you. It does not reflect any type of problem within the unit itself, however. You can either purchase a replacement switch by calling our customer service dept., at the # I listed below, or I can advise you how to disconnect power to the light to prevent the flickering. Many have even cut out a small piece of black tape to cover it.

Cable TV is his culprit. There is a post down in the Aragon section regarding this if you are interested.

"Stand By Me" - Ben E. King.

Very cool!! Yes! Please let us know when/if you get it!!

Anyone tried the cold-heat soldering iron? Just curious on how this thing really works.. http://www.asseenontv.com/prod-pages/heat_cold_soldering_set.html

Steven, You have a PM!

Stage One MSRP = $4,000 2005 MSRP = $2,500 So, yes, that price is very good! However, as mentioned earlier, please insure they are an authorized dealer. Otherwise, you would be left without a warranty. Granted Aragon gear is typically bullet proof, but we can't speak of where this gear has actually been if not authorized. And, yes, you will notice quite a difference between the Denon and the Aragon. Dynamics being 1st and foremost! The DAC's found in the Stage One are Crystal Semi-Conductor CS-43122.

Why isn't Aragon on the list? Of course, to achieve the absolute best sound possible, it must be powered by Aragon!!!!

Why isn't Aragon on the list? Of course, to achieve the absolute best sound possible, it must be powered by Aragon!!!!

My Denon will show the OSD through composite and S-video, but will not with component connections. I don't believe the Denon's in this range did that until the 3805, which has upconversion. What type of connections are you using to your TV? What exactly does the display of your receiver read when you feed it a digital signal from the DVD player? Also, what are the setting set to in the set-up menu for the DVD player itself? Yes, the Denon will auto-detect DTS and DD5.1 and automatically go into those modes when those bit streams are present. I'm believing DD and DTS are not set up to output from the DVD players set-up menu.

What does the display of your receiver read while in what you are thinking is DD? You may be getting confused with DOLBY PRO-LOGIC. This is not DD5.1. Can be confusing for sure. Is the receiver detecting a digital signal? There should be a red LED on the front panel indicating a digital signal is present. With that receiver, I believe it's like my 3300, you will need to assign the digital input to the corresponding input you have your DVD player connected to. Also, as mentioned before, you will need to go into the set-up menu of the DVD player and insure DD5.1 and DTS is "turned on".

I saw this over the weekend myself!! Thoroughly enjoyed it! Great movie. I can relate to it as well, even though I'm from a small town here in the middle of a corn field, it's basically the same. The movie is based off actual events.

It's not the decoding capabilities of a 192 dac, it's quality of that particular dac.

Excellent! Denon makes good stuff so I'm sure you'll enjoy that for sometime to come!

Certainly points to the receiver in that case! Could be faulty amp(s) or something within the DSP board. I'm sure the new receiver will correct all issues you are currently having. Please keep us posted!

Very good. From what I gathered from your original post was the that noise seems to be prominent in the left channel. Is that the case? If so, you may want to try swapping your left and right surrounds at the back of the receiver. See if the problem moves or stays in that channel.

Something you may want to try before you send the unit back is a different dvd player. If the prob. persists with a diff. player, try different interconnects, too. This will help point in the direction of the problem. IF it's the player/interconnets, the new receiver will perform the same way.