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Horns/Drivers/etc for DIY KHorns


pestilent

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I've wanted to build a pair of khorns since I was a kid and I have now reached a point in my life where i can actually do it. So, armed with a set of plans my father bought in the 60s I have started the research phase.

Initially I was just going follow the plans to the letter and go as close to stock as possible, but I made the mistake of reading this fourm prior to setting off on my project :). Now I'm looking to build the upgraded crossover networks from ALK along with an upgraded wood Trachorn (potentially ALK design as well). My problem is I am not entirely sure what horns/drivers etc to use. So far i've found a few tidbits here and there, but nothing substantial. So, my question is what are people's choice components for a khorn these days?

This is going to be my first speaker building project, so i'm very curious to see what people think...

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Good Luck on your project!

I will suggest doing a search on the threads about the Jubilee bass bin. You can also get a more formal description of it in an article from J. Audio Eng Soc (Delgado & Klipsch, 2000). There are number of advantages to the Jubilee bass bin relative to the K-Horn bass bin. One of them being that it is probably a bit easier to build than the K-Horn.

The top section is trickier. You mentioned the "Trachorn". In spite of its popularity, there is relatively little data available about its performance (especially, distortion and dispersion measures). For various reasons this has become a touchy topic on this forum. So I hope I have not just kicked a hornet's nest.

One of the issues will be if you want to go with a three way system or a two-way. If two way is a priority then the Jubilee bass bin will make it easier to accomplish, although the top-section will still present some headaches.

Anyhow, good luck

-Tom

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Tom

Thanks for the info and the encouragement.

Honestly, I haven't given much though to any alternatives to the khorn. They hold some sentimental value for me, so I am pretty locked on the course. I do fully realize that the project is no small undertaking, especially for a first time speaker builder, but I think I am up to the challenge. This is definitely a new arena for me but I was raised by a carpenter, and have a degree in EE, so I am well within my comfort zone.

Thanks

-Justin

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Justin,

Be aware that when those old plans for the DIY K-horn were initially drawn up the instructions called for SOME construction materials which are generally inferior to what is available and in use today. Marine grade fir plywood was initially used, but today most of the half-inch stock is actually baltic birch and the main front panel of the bass bin is currently veneered MDF as produced by the factory, but I personally would go with 3/4" baltic birch for that panel and veneer it however I wanted... and maybe not at all...considering I have always had the thought of making a solid wood framework to attach solidly to the front panel with either raised or sunken panels qithin the framework on that front panel.

Either way, you have chosen one helluva complex first speaker project and I would suggest attempting something easier like LaScalas before trying the K-horn, because at least with LaScalas, you can be using the componentsf or listening after the LaScalas are built while you are building the K-horns...just my 2 cents worth!

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I've wanted to build a pair of khorns since I was a kid and I have now reached a point in my life where i can actually do it. So, armed with a set of plans my father bought in the 60s I have started the research phase.

Initially I was just going follow the plans to the letter and go as close to stock as possible, but I made the mistake of reading this fourm prior to setting off on my project :). Now I'm looking to build the upgraded crossover networks from ALK along with an upgraded wood Trachorn (potentially ALK design as well). My problem is I am not entirely sure what horns/drivers etc to use. So far i've found a few tidbits here and there, but nothing substantial. So, my question is what are people's choice components for a khorn these days?

This is going to be my first speaker building project, so i'm very curious to see what people think...

I've owned my Khorns for 20 years or so, and I've finally decided to restore them with new veneer and new components. I wanted to keep the outside looking like a Khorn, so everything I'm doing will keep the Khorn stock looking, although a lot nicer than they used to look.

I am installing Bob Crites cast-frame woofers because I've heard them in a few different speakers now and I think they provide a little more output than the stock ones, plus they are new. I'm also making sure the backs are sealed properly against the corner of the room.

I've heard the ALK Trachorns and they sounded a bit nicer than the stock K400. Some people claim they make a big difference, but I can't honestly say that. I've decided in my Khorns to build my own wooden midrange horn and use a 2" driver instead of the 3/4" K55 stock driver. This has turned out to be a lot of work and I have no idea how it will sound when I'm done, but it's something I want to try. I believe the bigger driver will make a big difference in the quality of the midrange sound.

I'm using the Beyma CP-25 tweeter, which I describe as "lush". I like it a lot better than the K77.

I've tried the ALK ES Networks and they were very nice, but for the money, and for just keeping things a little simpler, I really like the ALK Universal networks, so that's what I'm using.

Note: Both Bob Crites and ALK offer very good products for upgrading and restoring Klipsch speakers. You will do well doing business with either of them.

I have a set of plans for the Khorn that were given to me by a member of the forum here, and he's built Khorns from them. If you'd like a copy, please email me and I'll send them to you. gregroberts@roadrunner.com

Greg

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I've wanted to build a pair of khorns since I was a kid and I have now reached a point in my life where i can actually do it.

Today is your lucky day. I loaded a boatload of pics on my website showing a Klipschorn replica being built.

Calling it a challenge is a bit of an understatement. Go to site below and look for "Photos"

http://home.comcast.net/~wooferboy/site/?/home/
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Guest David H

Are there any good alternative horn drivers out there ? I am looking to use ALs universal crossovers in my project and would prefer not to have to adjust to accommodate a radically different driver. Any suggestions?

What is your criteria for Drivers? Are you looking to save $$$$ ?

I would suggest taking a stab at building the cabs before investing a lot of coin in drivers an crossovers. The cabs are no joke to build even for a seasoned wood worker.

If price is your criteria there are a great many drivers available that work well wth little no or crossover changes. For instance the APT 150 is a direct replacement for the K77, although it requires a larger opening to install it. $30 each. Bob crites sells a $40 selenium mid driver that works well as a replacement for the K55 but requires a crossover mod. The sammy 250 may be another viable option for the K-55, I have not heard the sammy but a couple of memebers have mentioned that it works well.

The ALK universal crossover is a good choice but if your driver selection is not yet complete you may want to old off, at least for now.

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Are there any good alternative horn drivers out there ? I am looking to use ALs universal crossovers in my project and would prefer not to have to adjust to accommodate a radically different driver. Any suggestions?

-Justin

sure..parts express sells nice drivers...but if you are going with AL's universal or anyone else's botique crossovers, you are better off staying with stock or the provider of the crossovers recomendations.

In 3 way mode, the k-55 is hard to beat at current used prices on ebay.

If you do decide to substitue drives, keep the sepc's of each driver in mind.

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Honestly, my only real criteria is how easy it is to obtain new and how solid of a replacement it is. Right now I am just mapping the project out to get an idea of the direction I want to go. Once I have it mapped out a bit I am going to start on construction. Purchasing won't happen until I am most of the way done with the cabinet.

I have head good things about the D250x ( and the $31 price tag is defintely a plus) with an in-line 10w resistor. Also, Bob Crites is listing the Atlas PD-5VH on his site as a direct K55v/x replacement but on paper the D250x seems like a much better option. Has anyone heard Ks with either of these in them?

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Two problems using the D250-X. The higher output problem is solved easily by using one tap lower on the autotransformer. The other problem is the the D250-X barely makes it above 4 khz. That requires you to use a tweeter that can work that low and you have to revise the crossover for that frequency.

The Atlas PD-5VH is the K-55V and K-55X. Only change is that Klipsch puts a logo on the back over the Atlas logo.

Bob Crites

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Bob,

Glad to see you throwing your two cents into the mix. I am planning to get several of my componants from you, so yours is definitely an opinion I would like to have.

My consern was that the specs sheets I read showed the exact oposite. Atlas lists the PD-5VH as topping out at 4100 Hz (listed 110 - 4,100 Hz via atlas), while the D250-X is 9000 Hz (400-9000 Hz via parts express). That is what led me to opt for the D250-X in lieu of the Atlas, in order to provide a nice overlap cussion. Again this is all based on spec sheets, so I am very interested in real world comparisons.

Right now I am looking at the CW1526C and the CT125 for my top and bottom, with an upgraded crossover network, so I just want to be sure I have the right driver to fill that gap.

-Justin

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Don't pay a lot of attention to the spec sheets. The Atlas PD-5VH shows its test on a plane wave tube. The PD-5VH is lots better on a real horn and will go to 6khz on that good horn. The D250-X is no good over about 4khz. I have no idea how they make the claim that it goes to 9 khz, but notice they do not say anything about plus or minus any number of DB. So, I guess it may put out something at 9 khz, but nothing useable. In my testing on a K-400 horn, the D250X was down about 20 dbs at just 5 khz.

Bob Crites

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Guest David H

Don't pay a lot of attention to the spec sheets.

I agree, real world numbers differ greatly from printed material. As a matter of preferance I would stick with the atlas. It is a tried and true performer.
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