Timmikid Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 Hi guys, it's about time I cleaned my beloved MC-30's. Any ideas or suggestions? Please explain your method. Has anyone tried this before? It looks interesting, but dangerous to the lettering... http://chromepolish.com/ Thanks, Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 I'm skeptical....it probally causes corrosion in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmikid Posted February 27, 2009 Author Share Posted February 27, 2009 Yes, I was sceptical too. How then? Moist cloth? Sunflower oil. Chrome Polish for bikes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshnich Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 Pretty sure that any polish would be a problem with the lettering. I use a duster or a micro-fiber cloth to clean my MC 225. I keep the micro fiber cloth dry and am very careful around the lettering. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Richard Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 For chrome, plain soap and water, carefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicago_Pete Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 I used Zaino car polish on my Mac 30s. Did not hurt the lettering at all. Then a Swifter brush to keep the dust off. Do not use a car "cleaner" wax. Somewhere there is a Mac 240 without lettering because of me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshnich Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 Love Zaino products. Use them on my cars all the time. Good to know that the polish is good for amps as well. I dont think that they are available in Holland. Timmikid If youre interested in trying out some Zaino polish let me know and Ill send you some. No abrasives very cool stuff. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedcrankcammer Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Hi guys, it's about time I cleaned my beloved MC-30's. Any ideas or suggestions? Please explain your method. Has anyone tried this before? It looks interesting, but dangerous to the lettering... http://chromepolish.com/ Thanks, Tim. Tim, Simichrome Polish for Chrome. I have $27,000.00 in customizing on my bike. A large majority of that is Chrome and custom one of a kind parts. I generally use Wenol for billet and there are two types of this. I also use Flitz for Billet but preffer the Wenol. I don't know how your lettering will react to the simichrome, but the most important factor of using any of these polishes is to go back and clean the part with rubbing alcohol after you have polished and finish buffed. The unseen polish can hide in microscopic pores of the chrome or aluminum and cause deterioration of the sueface, so please clean the surface after polishing and hand rubbing. You will be surprized at how much black comes off after you have already rubbed it to a mirror finish. Not for your lettering, but light rust is best removed with very fine brass wool with kerosene for lubrication and the brass will not gouge the chrome. Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Robin Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Glass wax if you can find it. It is a pink liquid; polish gently. Later Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blvdre Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 I've had good luck with nevr-dull Recommended by the local Harley shop. I've only used it for drum parts, so can't vouch for it's affect on letters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BE36 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 We use Never Dull to polish the Aluminum Spinner Cover an Corporate Plane that I pilot for a friend. Works great. Love their products. May be a little agressive for the lettering on a amp. I like the Use no "cleaner" products above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicago_Pete Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Glass wax if you can find it. It is a pink liquid; polish gently. Later Bill Gold Seal made Glass Wax, the company was sold in the late 80s.It was a great product. Sometimes an ancient can will pop up on ebay for about $25!Zaino glass polish is the closest thing I have been able to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Here is a good solution from Terry DeWick. "For chrome I use Wenol,it gets the rust and oxidation. For the glass I use Turtle Wax Carnuba,can use it on painted surfaces just don't rub it a lot or you will endup with a beautiful gloss finish. For general dirt I use clear Ammonia,is very gentle on lettering, both the Wenol and Turtle Wax can eat atpainted lettering if you rub too hard, the metal ID/information platesare safe. Do not use Windex, or 409 type cleaners as they attacklettering and painted surfaces." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedcrankcammer Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 We use Never Dull to polish the Aluminum Spinner Cover an Corporate Plane that I pilot for a friend. Works great. Love their products. May be a little agressive for the lettering on a amp. I like the Use no "cleaner" products above. I have several cans of Never Dull. Never Dull is NOT!! for fine finishes!! I use it to remove cartridge deposits on my stainless revolvers. Never Dull is fine for shining up an old scruffy looking polished aluminum surface, but is NOT for good billet aluminum or Quallity custom chrome! It will work on an older, slightly rusted piece of chromed steel, but should never be used as the first resort!! Wenol is for Billet Aluminum, not the best choice for CHROME!! Besides having a magazine published bike, and working on severa l cars, one of which was ON THE COVER!! of three magazines including Hot Rod Magazine TWICE!! One of my best friends names is Jon Cornelle, who owns www.ufocycles.com Who builds custom bikes as well as custom parts for a living and has had DOZENS of bikes in Magazines as well as a history of professional drag bike racing. Jon uses fresh ruber gloves for all bikes he works on, and I have helped him assemble bikes from time to time and have learned many polishing tricks as well as maintenace of pro billet and pro chrome, so I feel aptly more qualified then the lay person to suggest what is best for diferant beutiful finishes. Any doubting Thomases are to feel free to email me at rgordon@watchtv.net and request some pictures of my custom chromed EV 15W-K baskets on my woofers (Indy Roger has seen some shots of these), my bike, or links to find my bike on the web, or dates of the camaro that was on three magazine covers, or surf the UFO web site. Got more experience then me, speak up, but I am like Colter on Pro Speakers when talking pro show stuff. [8-|] Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richinlr Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 I've had good luck with nevr-dull Recommended by the local Harley shop. I've only used it for drum parts, so can't vouch for it's affect on letters. Nevr-dull IS the stuff to use. Non-abrasive and easy to clean up. I have used it on classic cars for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedcrankcammer Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 I've had good luck with nevr-dull Recommended by the local Harley shop. I've only used it for drum parts, so can't vouch for it's affect on letters. Nevr-dull IS the stuff to use. Non-abrasive and easy to clean up. I have used it on classic cars for years. [bs][bs][bs][bs][bs][bs][bs][bs][bs][bs][bs][bs]!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moffer Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Roger, you say Wenol for Billet Aluminum but do not say what to use for quality custom chrome, ie McIntosh Amps chassis........could you recommend something for the Mac chassis, thanks, moffer MC2255, C34V, MR80, MCD7007, Klipsch Chorus' and Heresy's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmikid Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 Look at Roger's first post. Simichrome Polish for Chrome. Clean very well with rubbing alcohol afterwards. Thanks for the replies so far! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedcrankcammer Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Roger, you say Wenol for Billet Aluminum but do not say what to use for quality custom chrome, ie McIntosh Amps chassis........could you recommend something for the Mac chassis, thanks, moffer MC2255, C34V, MR80, MCD7007, Klipsch Chorus' and Heresy's As Timmikid said, Simichrome for high quallity chrome. I don't know if it is safe for the lettering on a McIntoch amplifier, so be very careful in this area and try it. Simechrome, Wenol, Flitz, Neverdull, all should be wiped down to remove any hidden polish even after final rub down and you think the part is clean. If you polish / buff your own alluminum and other metals, there is a liquid called final shine that is used after the final colour buff with white compound to remove the compound from the metals poures, and brings out and even deeper shine then when you thought you were done. In this same way, plain rubbibg alcohol may be used to remove the metal polishing creams or residue from the metals pours to bring out an even better shine and protect damage from these compounds occuring from within the poures. If you add micro scratches, even ones that you cannot redily see with the naked eye, from using something more agressive on chrome or billet, you will never return to the level prior to that without alot of work. Start with the properly finest matched product you can find, if you absolutely have too, you can always use something more aggresive later. As I have stated before, I have Simechrome, Wenol Red, Wenol Blue, Flitz, and Neverdull on hand here at home at all times. Each has it's place and time to be used. If your amps chrome already shows visible scratching swirls, then you certainly are not going to hurt it with neverdull and may well remove a tiny bit of surface chrome that will make it look better (As an example, repeated use of Neverdull to remove cartridge deposits from the front of the cylinder on my stainless Ruger Redhawk over the years, has removed most of the brushed finish in this area and left a polished finish in this area, but as any metal buffer can tell you, a polished surface with Red compound is not as bright or beutifull as one that was polished with white compoud afterwards.) If you have flawless chrome or have done a rechrome to show chrome, then use the Simichrome. I personally have used 3 different show chrome platers. The best job for the money that I have used is ChromeMasters in Tenn., as I said before, they did the copper plate on the OCC bike that used copper from the statue of liberty. They usually run 6-8 weeks to get a piece done. If money is no object, I know a company that does even better work and has a 10 day turn arround, but expect to pay about 3 times as much for their service. A show chrome is made or broken by the polish work the company does prior to the plating process. Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedcrankcammer Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 [:'(] Hi guys, it's about time I cleaned my beloved MC-30's. Any ideas or suggestions? Please explain your method. Has anyone tried this before? It looks interesting, but dangerous to the lettering... http://chromepolish.com/ Thanks, Tim. Hey Tim, I just looked at your chromepolish.com web site, and that stuff would scare the poop out of me to use on your amp!!! First; It says it ads chrome!!! That is not possible and can only be seen as a lie. Second; Take a look at the before and after shot of that penny! The penny in question is a 1999. Since 1983 (the year I graduated HiSchool) all US pennies have been made of Zinc and then Copper plated. All 1982 and earlier pennies are solid copper and worth almost 3 cents in copper by weight with the exception of the world war 2 era steel pennies. Their add clearly show a 1999 penny that has the copper stripped off and shows the polished Zink, leading the uninformed to think it has chrome plated the Copper. Holly CRAP!!! Their own add shows it stripped off the copper plate!!! That is NOT what I would use on your McIntoch amp!! [:'(] Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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