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Are you supposed to oil an 'Oak Clear' finish?


erdric

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Seeing the other 'oil' threads had me wondering about my Kg-3's. They have the clear oak finish and I don't know what, if anything, I'm supposed to do to them for ongoing finish care.

Should I oil them?

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Primary System:

Main KG-4

Center KV-3

Rear RS-3

Yamaha HTR-5250

Sony DVP-S560D

Panasonic PV-9664

Samsung TXL2791F DynaFlat

Sony DBS system

Studio:

Main KG-3

Sony STR-AV920

Pioneer PD-4351

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Oops! Please pardon the incorrect grammar in the title.

------------------

Primary System:

Main KG-4

Center KV-3

Rear RS-3

Yamaha HTR-5250

Sony DVP-S560D

Panasonic PV-9664

Samsung TXL2791F DynaFlat

Sony DBS system

Studio:

Main KG-3

Sony STR-AV920

Pioneer PD-4351

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No you should not oil the finish unless the finish is dried up.Most of the time wood care prodicts for furniture are ideal or like Jeff said Endust.

I use a soft cloth with a bit of water and then use a dry cloth to leave no wet spots on the speakers.

All my speakers look like new,even my Paradigm ATOM cheapies I use as TV speakers.The small Paradigms are the first version and are almost 9 years old now.

TheEAR(s) Now theears

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I've read that most mass produced clear finishes are sprayed on lacquer. There is not much you can do for it but keep it clean. Most of the oak trim around my office is like this. The lacquer is fairly thin and water damage from plants is common.

"Oil" finishes are thinned out varnish. They are thinned with linseed oil at least sometimes. My guess is that the gun stock finishes are of this type.

Linseed oil is what causes the spontanious combustion of oily rags. So if an oil product warns of such, it contains linseed oil.

Gil

The edit was oily rags.

This message has been edited by William F. Gil McDermott on 03-21-2002 at 11:12 PM

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Thanks for the replies. I guess that I'll just hit them with a wood care product.

Thanks again.

------------------

Primary System:

Main KG-4

Center KV-3

Rear RS-3

Yamaha HTR-5250

Sony DVP-S560D

Panasonic PV-9664

Samsung TXL2791F DynaFlat

Sony DBS system

Studio:

Main KG-3

Sony STR-AV920

Pioneer PD-4351

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Erdric - Are you sure you have a clear finish, and not oiled oak? I have a pair of oak KG3s, and they definitely don't have a clear finish on them. It is oak veneer, oiled, but pretty smooth. But certainly not as smooth as you would have if they had a clear laquer sprayed on them...

Do the tags on the back say OO?

Doug

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My System

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Doug,

Here's the exact information on the tag:

P/N 09001231710

KG3 OAK CLR

S/N 101086

W/O 20742

I took CLR as clear. Just to clarify the finish seems to be bare wood. It's not glossy, shiny, lacquer, etc. When I run my hand over the surface I can feel the texture of the wood itself.

If there IS an applied coat of 'something' then it's the most matte coating that I've ever seen.

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I have KG-4's and the finish sounds like yours. If they put a clear coat on them it was rather meager. I just bought some lemon oil spray from Halloway house (bought it at the grocery store) and using an old t-shirt rubbed the stuff in real well. Don't use too much it will make the speakers greasy (yuck). Not only did the stuff add a nice warm glow, it also made most of the minor scratches and scuffs disappear. I really didn't expect the results to last, but it's been a coupla weeks and the scratches still haven't resurfaced.

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Gil-You are confusing the concepts of OIL FINISH and PROTECTIVE FINISH. Oil finish is boiled linseed linseed oil OR tung oil with a thinner of either terpentine or mineral spirits. it's nothing else. Oil finish is NOT thinned out varnish. It does not leave a *protective* film on the surface the way varnish and lacquers do.

Varnish is linseed (or tung) oil mixed with resin solids. The resins supply about 50% by volume of solids content. Oil finishes have NO solids content.

This is why I mix my own oil finish, I KNOW what is in it (2 parts boiled linseed oil to 1 part terpentine, heat, apply heavy, rub out). $5 will make a 1/2 gallons worth.

Alternative to varnish is Lacquer. Lacquer (today) is cotton cellulose disolved in a solvent. It dries faster, but the cost is higher. varnish is tougher (more solids content).

Oil finish is easy, anyone can do it.

varnish and Lacquer are very difficult and MUST be

sprayed on in a booth for *perfect* result.

This message has been edited by John Warren on 03-23-2002 at 09:01 AM

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John- I got a beautiful finish on some cherry cabinet tops I made from an article in Fine Woodworking Magazine. I don't have the article in front of me, but I think it was a 50/50 mix quick-dry varnish and naptha applied with (if you can believe it) paper towels! The author reccomended untextured Viva brand as his favorite paper towel for applying the finish. Because it is a very fast-drying finish, dust is less of a problem, and it lays out very well (it's so thin). Many coats are required, but by the time you've coated the whole piece, the spot you started on is ready for another coat! You follow all this with a typical rub-out.

If anyone's interrested, I can dig up the article.

fini

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Fini-

You've described the *work around* alternative to a spray booth. Naptha (a strong solvent used primarily as a degreaser) reduces the solids content of the varnish which gives it some leveling ability.

It sounds like you are a real craftsman, getting glass smooth finishes with varnish takes real patience.

jw

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John- Thank you for the compiment! If I can ever get a digital camera (haven't found one at the thrift shop yet) I'll post some examples of my work. I know fron reading your posts that you know your way around the ol' woodworking shop, yerself, Mr. Warren!

fini

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DO NOT USE PLEDGE or old english or any lemon oil!

This will turn any raw finish yellow!

Scotts liquid gold, or an even more expensive clear oil will work!

Id use clear crisco before pledge LOL!

My kg-3s didnt seem like they had a clear coat, but then again that was 11 years ago, long gone!

I did redo a set of kg-4s with stain, and then a clear water base acrylic, they were very nice!

Also did my freinds kg-4s the same way, he was that impressed!

Regards Jim

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  • 1 month later...

Erdric,

I was reading through some past threads on the Klipsch site and thought this might provide more choices for you. If this product applies to your needs, I would suggest it only because it has worked well me on some very expensive in home furniture such as Stickley, Henkel Harris or Councill.

The Guardsman product works very well and was recommended to me by these fine manufacturers of quality, case pieces. They have various products to perhaps fit your needs.

http://www.guardsman.com/furncare/gmanprod.html

http://www.guardsman.com/

Cheers..

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In Klipsch terminology, "oak clr" means oak with clear laquer finish. DO NOT OIL THIS FINISH!!! Instead, just dust it and if you wish to add some gloss to it, then you may apply a touch of high quality furniture wax to it. The wax will provide a bit of protection from moisture to the laquer. Keep in mind that furniture laquer finishes are highly susceptible to spills, which will damage the finish if not wiped up immediately! The wax will provide some extra protection to the laquer in this case. If the wax used is the better type, then it also will help to keep the laquer from "alligatoring" over the years, and cause it to have less of a tendency to yellow. It is very important to make the best effort to keep ANY wood finish away from direct sunlight, as the UV rays degrade not only the finish, but also tend to alter the color of the wood by bleaching it!

I hope this helps you some.

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