My new DVD rack

[liebherr954]

Well after going to numerous furniture stores and looking online and taking a sugestion from James V, I've made my own book case.

In total the cost of matterials including stain was about $150, but I also had a good time (some bad words were used)

Sorry about the picture quility, I'm looking for a new camera at the moment (suggestions please)

Anyways let me know what you think.

[dollar bill]

N

[liebherr954]

Thanks dollar, yup messed something up, could be operator error ( most likely)

sorry guys, hopefully some one can help remove 5 of the posts.

[Olorin]

I like. Can you give some more details on the build? What material you chose, why you chose it, etc?

[dtel]

Very nice work, looks like Oak to me. [Y] What's the stain Golden Oak.?

[Cal Blacksmith]

Very nice work indeed, you should be proud.

Ya wanna quote a price to build 2 for us as one isn't big enough[] JUST KIDDING! We are OK for storage..... for now[:$]

[liebherr954]

I like. Can you give some more details on the build? What material you chose, why you chose it, etc?

This is a basic matterial list, its all oak.

1 sheet of 1/2inch 4x8 oak VC plywood

6 feet of 1x6 oak for the top

8 feet of 1x3 oak for the face sides

10 feet of 1x5 oak for the bottom skirts and top and bottom face

7 feet of 2 1/4inch crown molding

I went to home depot and had them cut up the plywood on there pannel saw, the basic box is 2 feet wide by 4 feet tall, the depth is 1 foot. I went with that size so I would only need 1 sheet of plywood for the basic box and shelves. I used a 1/4 inch Roman Ogee router bit to create the skirt and a 1/4 iinch cove for the face sides. Over all the only trouble I had making this was cutting the crown molding, Ive never made a compound miter cut before so a few feet were wasted in learning. the top pice is just 3 pices of 1x6 oak glued edge to edge and clamped.

I am very happy with how this turned out, a TV stand is next on my list.

If you would like more details you can PM me I'd be more then happy to help.

[liebherr954]

Very nice work, looks like Oak to me. What's the stain Golden Oak.?

Thanks for the kind words dtel.

Yup its Oak, the stain is a Pecan, it more of a red tint to it in person. With three coats its very close to the Cherry color used on my RB-81s.

I used Minwax's Polyshades, its a stain and varathane in one. Very easy to use product 3 coats and your done, minimal sanding between coats as well.

[fini]

Very nice, indeed! If you need to hear my "secret" for cutting crown, just ask. Looks like you did real well!!

[EM3]

Great job you should be proud!

[liebherr954]

Very nice, indeed! If you need to hear my "secret" for cutting crown, just ask. Looks like you did real well!!

Very nice, indeed! If you need to hear my "secret" for cutting crown, just ask. Looks like you did real well!!

Thanks FFini any tips would be great, I want to instal crown molding in my basement and bathroom soon, so please any advice would help[]

[fini]

Okie dokie!

The secret to consistently good crown molding joints is to use a jig. Very easy to make. First, start with a small piece of the crown. Grab your framing square, and measure how far the top of the crown will stick out from the wall. You do this by placing the crown piece against the inside of the square, sort of like the blades of the square represent the wall and ceiling. Adjust the crown piece until the ceiling and wall edges lie flat against the square blades. Now read the measurement for how far out the top of the crown (face edge) will stick out from the wall. Note this number.

Next you make the jig. It's basically a 3-sided cradle that you attach to your miter saw. I like my crown jigs to be about 3 feet long. Rip a piece of material (plywood) to that crown number you measured above. That will form the bottom of the cradle/jig. Rip another piece about 1/4" wider than the thickness of the plywood you're using (typically 3/4" plywood, so rip this 1"). Attach this to the front edge of the bottom plywood piece. Next, rip a wider piece that will attach to the backside of the jig. The width depends of your miter saw's vertical capacity (actually, this whole thing depends on that!). You want this piece to be tall enough for the back flat edge of the crown to sit against it.

So to review, you have made a jig/cradle/trough, about 3 feet long, the bottom inside width being equal to the amount the crown will stick out from the wall when installed. Make sense so far?

Attach this jig to your mitersaw table. Usually there are holes in the saw fence through which you can screw. Once it's on there, you will basically be cutting the crown "upside down." In other words, the crown edge that will be agains the ceiling will sit inside at the bottom front of the jig, and the crown edge that will touch the wall will be against the back of the jig.

I like to use a scrap of plywood ripped to that 1st number (crown ceiling measurement), and use it to go around the room making light pencil marks on the ceiling. At the corners, you can cross the marks to know where the crown pieces should meet.

Are you with me still?

[jamesV]

WOW, that really looks good and matches, that's the best part and fits your needs.

$150... that is great and the shelves are adjustable, nice...

James

[DU73]

excellent work for sure.. well done!

[dtel]

Are you with me still?

Yes, I got it,......... just tell my wife I don't know how. [:$]

I can see how that would work, but please don't give my wife Crown molding thoughts.

[liebherr954]

Okie dokie!

The secret to consistently good crown molding joints is to use a jig. Very easy to make. First, start with a small piece of the crown. Grab your framing square, and measure how far the top of the crown will stick out from the wall. You do this by placing the crown piece against the inside of the square, sort of like the blades of the square represent the wall and ceiling. Adjust the crown piece until the ceiling and wall edges lie flat against the square blades. Now read the measurement for how far out the top of the crown (face edge) will stick out from the wall. Note this number.

Next you make the jig. It's basically a 3-sided cradle that you attach to your miter saw. I like my crown jigs to be about 3 feet long. Rip a piece of material (plywood) to that crown number you measured above. That will form the bottom of the cradle/jig. Rip another piece about 1/4" wider than the thickness of the plywood you're using (typically 3/4" plywood, so rip this 1"). Attach this to the front edge of the bottom plywood piece. Next, rip a wider piece that will attach to the backside of the jig. The width depends of your miter saw's vertical capacity (actually, this whole thing depends on that!). You want this piece to be tall enough for the back flat edge of the crown to sit against it.

So to review, you have made a jig/cradle/trough, about 3 feet long, the bottom inside width being equal to the amount the crown will stick out from the wall when installed. Make sense so far?

Attach this jig to your mitersaw table. Usually there are holes in the saw fence through which you can screw. Once it's on there, you will basically be cutting the crown "upside down." In other words, the crown edge that will be agains the ceiling will sit inside at the bottom front of the jig, and the crown edge that will touch the wall will be against the back of the jig.

I like to use a scrap of plywood ripped to that 1st number (crown ceiling measurement), and use it to go around the room making light pencil marks on the ceiling. At the corners, you can cross the marks to know where the crown pieces should meet.

Are you with me still?

I think I understamd Fini, the jig will eliminate one of the angles I have to use, the compound. With the 3 foot jig I'm sure there will be enough support for longer pieces as well. It seems to make perfect sense, as long as the jig is "square" it should work fine, I'll let you know of the results when the time comes.[H]

Thanks again.

[fini]

I think I understand Fini, the jig will eliminate one of the angles I have to use, the compound.

Correct! (At least for me) using the jig makes it easier to visualize the cut, the angles. You just need to be able to flip it upside down in your head.

It seems to make perfect sense, as long as the jig is "square" it should work fine

If you rip the pieces square on a tablesaw, it'll be square. One issue that might come up at corners is if the wall-to-ceiling angle is not square (which can often be the case, usually caused by too much drywall mud built up), the crown won't perfectly follow that line you've scribed on the ceiling. It may be slightly open at some point, too. If you're installing paint-grade crown, most of the time this is not a problem (putty and caulk are your friend here!). Now, if it's stain-grade (or even worse, prefinished), you've gotta be real careful with your layout. I've done plenty of kitchens and baths where the cabinet company sent barely enough crown to do a job...with no mis-cuts!

Here's a pretty good step-by-step guide to crown installation. They use a different kind of jig, but the concept is the same (cutting the crown upside-down from the installed orientation). It also illustrates cope joints for inside corners. Looks harder than miter joints (it isn't), but creates a better, more forgiving joint.