tromprof Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 The TT looks like the "woodworking for dummies" level and I can just get more wood and do it over until I get it right and still not be out a bunch of bucks. You may have seen this but here is my tuba table build thread. It really isn't that hard to make, the hard part is not going too fast and screwing things up (at least for me). http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/142985.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 >Dave, how big of a room and what mains will you pair it with? About 15X14 and K'horns. I saw a Table Tuba build thread and mistook it for a Tuba HT! The build difficulty might be comparable. Fitzmaurice rates difficulty on the THT as 4, and the Table T as 3. I have plans for the THT but not the Table yet, but I suspect the Table is essentially a scaled down THT and the one difficulty level might well be accounted for, as you said, by just that difference. I am pretty settled that the Table in the low profile version is the most cost effective way to get the pipe organ bottom I want at a cost/difficulty level I can afford. Can't lose, anyway. I'll learn something and have a bit of fun with my son. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 About 15X14 and K'horns. Then a Table Tuba should suffice. I've got a Tuba 18 paired with my Lascalas. Common sense told me that there was no way an 8" driver was going to keep up with my mains, but it does. I'd never use it for HT, but it does an amazing job with music. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 Dave, her's a detailed look at what you are about to undertake. Lots of good pics. http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/142985.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 Dave, her's a detailed look at what you are about to undertake. Lots of good pics.\Your analysis matches mine. I'd seen those pix when originally posted and yesterday. TBHWY, it looks rather daunting as one thing I understand in spades is that speaker cabinets MUST be tight and error free. I am a bit concerned about clamps as well, as I know they are not really optional and good ones are not cheap. However, I have a decent table saw, and a first rate (DeWalt) compound mitre saw, and willpower. I'll just keep at it until I get it right. If it gets too screwed up I'll just make a nice coffin out of it... Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 I think I have a couple 36" clamps. I'd need to measure them to be sure, they may be longer. I also have a couple shorter ones. You're welcome to use them if need be. I also have a decent router and Jasper Jig for the driver cut-out if you want also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 I think I have a couple 36" clamps. I'd need to measure them to be sure, they may be longer. I also have a couple shorter ones. You're welcome to use them if need be. I also have a decent router and Jasper Jig for the driver cut-out if you want also. Wanna spend an expenses paid, exciting weekend in exotic Seabrook sometime soon? [] Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 I'll make a deal with you. I'll bring them to you if you'll bring them back. The only caveat is that when you return them, you bring your Korg with some organ music with you! In addition, if you think of anything else you need, just let me know, I've got a few tools laying around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 Looks like a deal. You might want to reverse the trips such that when you come to pick them up you can sample the result... I am going to try to work this in for the summer. Way too much going on with my family at the moment to start such a project, but I am just looking for a place to slot it. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Looks like a deal. You might want to reverse the trips such that when you come to pick them up you can sample the result... Works for me. I checked last night and I have two 1 foot clamps and two 3 foot clamps. Mid summer is good for me, as I just got the driver and wood for a small tapped horn project and may be tinkering with that for a couple weeks. Who knows, by the time you need to borrow the clamps, I may have some more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Getting started is the hard part for me. Once started, I get pretty focused. So, I'll let you know once I have the materials and have made some preliminary cuts. One thing is I need to get someone to show me how to properly adjust the riving knife and anti kickback device. I had to remove it as I could not seem to get it to not bind the piece. Of course, than means burned edges and that's no good for this kind of project. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 I was originally looking at the Table Tuba as well, until I found out it only goes to 30hz. I am going to share the sub between 2-ch and HT so I opted for the THTLP (Low Profile), which can get you in the low 20's. I am having this built as we speak, and my builder is going to do the gloss black piano finish just like Carl did for his Tuba 18. It should be done in the next week or so. I'll post pics and my thoughts after I have had a chance to dial it in. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 One thing is I need to get someone to show me how to properly adjust the riving knife and anti kickback device. I had to remove it as I could not seem to get it to not bind the piece. Of course, than means burned edges and that's no good for this kind of project. I'd be the wrong one to ask that question to. I took mine off too and they never made it back on[:$]. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brac Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 The use of those devices are for safety reasons, having them, or not, should not effect the quality of your cut. Sounds like your fence is out of adjustment, and you need a better/sharper blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 I took mine off too and they never made it back on. "No equipment may be operated with safety equipment removed or modified in any way." From my company's standards and guidelines. Good rule. How do you get a clean cut without a riving knife? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Good rule. How do you get a clean cut without a riving knife? I just set the blade a fraction higher than the thickness of the wood and go r e a l s l o w. Please wait for advice from others, I'm an untrained wood butcher and my advice should be taken bearing that in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 The use of those devices are for safety reasons, having them, or not, should not effect the quality of your cut. Sounds like your fence is out of adjustment, and you need a better/sharper blade. Agreed, I thought they were for kick back prevention but like I said, I may not be the best one to ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brac Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Burning of edges means 2 things, 1 or both. 1) the fence on a table saw should not be at an exact 90 to the blade, it needs to, very, very slightly angle away. This keeps the edge from riding into the blade. TINY BIT! 2) get a good blade, I love this one; http://www.amazon.com/Freud-Fusion-Thin-Kerf-Blade/dp/B0036CANUQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Agreed, I thought they were for kick back prevention but like I said, I may not be the best one to ask. Not my understanding. The anti-kickback is for safety, the riving knife is for riving the cut and should be the width of the kerf. Now I am thinking perhaps the issue is tangency to the cut, as mentioned. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Agreed, I thought they were for kick back prevention but like I said, I may not be the best one to ask. Not my understanding. The anti-kickback is for safety, the riving knife is for riving the cut and should be the width of the kerf. Now I am thinking perhaps the issue is tangency to the cut, as mentioned. Dave Ahhh, I just googled it. My saw never had one. It's not exactly a cabinet grade saw. I removed the anti-kick back device and saw guard. If I did enough building I'd buy a better saw, and have threatened to over the years, but never did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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