jhoak Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 I recently picked up a pair of really nice Chorus IIs. The seller wasn't using the original risers on them but did supply them with the speakers. All 8 of the plastc corner braces have come off. Some of the riser corners are separated I need to re-glue and clamp them. Once that's done I want to re-attach the plastic corner braces. What kind of glue shoud I use? I noticed that the corner braces each have 4 little holes in them that would permit the use of small nails. Is that a good idea? I have some short wire brads that I could use. I'm not sure at this point if I'll reinstall the risers (once repaired) or not but I do want them to be intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 liquid nails maybe check with BEC he builds risers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 super glue gel form is what I use to glue plastic to wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhoak Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 check with BEC he builds risers Thanks... I hadn't thought of asking Bob. I don't think he uses the plastic corner braces though. I'll shoot him an email anyway. Tommorow's project is getting the risers glued and clamped up. Once they're solid I'll figure out how to attach the plastic corner braces. I'm hoping that someone who has succesfully done what I'm trying to do will chime in soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 I recently picked up a pair of really nice Chorus IIs. The seller wasn't using the original risers on them but did supply them with the speakers. All 8 of the plastc corner braces have come off. Some of the riser corners are separated I need to re-glue and clamp them. Once that's done I want to re-attach the plastic corner braces. What kind of glue shoud I use? I noticed that the corner braces each have 4 little holes in them that would permit the use of small nails. Is that a good idea? I have some short wire brads that I could use. I'm not sure at this point if I'll reinstall the risers (once repaired) or not but I do want them to be intact. I am a fan of Gorilla products, glues, tapes you name it. Anyway, standard Gorilla glue will glue wood to plastic as long as it is not polyethylene or polypropylene. Kind of limits you a bit. If you do not know what type of plastic it is, I would go with their Gorilla Epoxy. Properly used, your corner brackets will never, ever come off again unless it is a wood failure. No need to use the brads. Just my .02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artarama Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Late to the party here, sorry. I have used a product called E6000 with great success on virtually all substrates. It is about the same viscosity as silicon caulking. this stuff remains flexible like silicon, is water proof and very strong. Easy to apply but takes several hours to cure and gain ultimate strenght so you need to clamp some parts, the brads and small holes may help here to keep it in place while it cures. Once it is dry, very very strong. Will definately work on both plastic and wood. Always a good idea to get rid of as much of the old adhesive as possible, the new bond is only as good as the weakest link in the substrate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube fanatic Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Late to the party here, sorry. I have used a product called E6000 with great success on virtually all substrates. It is about the same viscosity as silicon caulking. this stuff remains flexible like silicon, is water proof and very strong. Easy to apply but takes several hours to cure and gain ultimate strenght so you need to clamp some parts, the brads and small holes may help here to keep it in place while it cures. Once it is dry, very very strong. Will definately work on both plastic and wood. Always a good idea to get rid of as much of the old adhesive as possible, the new bond is only as good as the weakest link in the substrate. Some concerns have been raised about exposure to E6000. Worth keeping in mind if used on a more frequent basis: http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/MSDS%20E-6000.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panacea Engineering Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Epoxy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artarama Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Some concerns have been raised about exposure to E6000. Worth keeping in mind if used on a more frequent basis: http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/MSDS%20E-6000.pdf Why are the best things always bad for you? Good Hygene with any chemicals is always a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KdAgain Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Late to the party here, sorry. I have used a product called E6000 with great success on virtually all substrates. It is about the same viscosity as silicon caulking. this stuff remains flexible like silicon, is water proof and very strong. Easy to apply but takes several hours to cure and gain ultimate strenght so you need to clamp some parts, the brads and small holes may help here to keep it in place while it cures. Once it is dry, very very strong. Will definately work on both plastic and wood. Always a good idea to get rid of as much of the old adhesive as possible, the new bond is only as good as the weakest link in the substrate. Years ago I used E6000 to glue and seal a small nylon pipe filling in a vinyl hose. Everybody told me it couldn't be done but it worked great. I have found the Goop products to work similarly; Shoe goop, Plumbers Goop, etc. they all seem similar. Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brac Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Even later to the party, the Forte I's I picked up a few weeks ago had the same issue. I could see remnants of hot melt glue, so that is what I used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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