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Wire Raceways


oldtimer

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What do your baseboards look like?.... A multipart moulding assembly can replicate standard trim while leaving a hollow space to feed wires through. It something we see in historical buildings with varied wall materials (like exposed brick walls) that prohibits feeding the wires through the wall.

ROb

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It's essentially matching quarter round for the laminate wood look floor. No actual traditional shoe mould type trim. I am thinking the best route is up close to the ceiling because of where the wire has to cross certain openings and the one wall which could serve as a route for staying low is all floor to ceiling windows and sliding glass doors. That would also be a longer route than the planned route, however it could avoid the curve while creating its own special problems.

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Do you plan to install the cables as you go or are you wanting to install the raceway and then pull the cables in? When you get near 360 degrees total in bending, it becomes almost impossible to pull the wires in, even with a Fish Tape or Pull String. if you are running over 100 feet, it is best to plan for a couple of Junction boexs along the way (If Pulling the Cable In). the Flexible Raceway should work fine for the curved wall as long as you can get the proper fittings for it. Exposed raceway work can be very challenging......

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Do you mean the round stuff? Wouldn't you have to run the whole thing through beforehand? I'm talking about 100 ft or slightly less of run with lots of turns including vertical as well as horizontal and joining a cat5e and a rg6 from 2 separate start points.

I think I may have been confused before....are you trying to route this on top of existing walls?

The two ways we ran on top of walls when I worked as an audio installer were to just staple the cables to the wall (using a nicer grade cable that matches the wall color), or we would run wire inside trim. If you have drywall construction, it rarely goes down all the way to floor - though if you've got quarter round it might end up being too tight.

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Assuming the laminate floor was installed properly, there should be a minimum 1/4" gap around the perimeter between the laminate and the wall to allow for expansion and contraction. If that path works, maybe pull a piece of the quarter round to see what space is available......just a thought.

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