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la scala's...where is that 15" woofer anyway...


steck

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such a stupid question, but have been looking at getting some la scala's..i want to experience what they call 'eery' ...

but help me out with the bass section..whats goin on there, and where the h3ll is the woofer....any one have a schematic or cross section diagram ? dont really understand horn loaded woofers i guess.

also many have said the la Scala's lack bass..but wouldnt a quality sub take care of that ? like a servo 15.

and one more, wouldnt they make a great satellite system (in a smaller box with jus the top half,) and let a sub take care of the lows...

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what they call 'eery' ...

What is this experience?

also many have said the la Scala's lack bass..

Where have you heard that?

wouldnt they make a great satellite system (in a smaller box with jus the top half,) and let a sub take care of the lows...

Klipsch already made that, it's called a Heresy Industrial Ported. [Y][;)]
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also many have said the la Scala's lack bass.

I have read this a lot, and it is an inaccurate description. What a La Scala lacks is low bass, there is a sharp cut off at around 50 hz. The bass up until then is big, clean, and full just like my k-horns, and wonderful to listen to. A sub, particularly a horn loaded sub, is a good thing but not totally nesc.

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such a stupid question, but have been looking at getting some la scala's..i want to experience what they call 'eery' ...

I have laScalas in my he-man cave, and what is eery is when I think I hear somebody talking, and it is coming from the speaker. Now that is the measure of a good speaker! I have never had trouble discerning people talking from talking on a speaker until I had these.

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"subwoofer bass" and horn-loaded bass are two very different things. With a horn-loaded woofer, you get the entire lower midrange (about 250hz down to about 80) is a very clean manner. If you are looking for clean bass, think horns. If you are looking for plot-point explosions, warp-drive rumble, and the very lowest notes on a major pipe organ, think subwoofers.

Subwoofers have an added benefit. They relieve the mains of having to reproduce the very lowest bass and that reduces overall distortion. When I added a subwoofer (<60 Hz) to my 4 Cornwall set-up, the distortion from the Corns dropped dramatically, which cleaned up the lower midrange-already very clean thanks to Paul's bass design.

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Just like to add that with the help of KG4guy I've been building LaScala's with a twist. Using John Allen's 555 bin design, I'm deviating from the accepted Klipsch design. I am coming straight out along the outsides from the back to the point where the doghouse then angles to the roofpanels. I will then keep the same flare angle as the roof panels, and end up with the mouth being approx. 36.5" across, instead of the 24" standard width. Just waiting on the material, Baltic Birch 1" 17 ply to arrive. Will post pics of the build and hopefully be able to test for the results as I'm very new to the DIY World Of Sports.2S2P

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so your bin is more like a slightly larger Belle which has not been truncated? sounds like a great plan to me, ends up a little wider than a Peavey FH-1 by 3 -4 inches? What driver do you plan to use? Best regards Moray James.

One of the members here has used a number of different drivers in the FH-1 and I thought I would post his comments here as you might find his suggestions useful.



I use my FH-1's from 80-500Hz. I have tested 3 drivers for home use, in my order of preference:

1. JBL 2226H
- below 140Hz, has less than half the distortion of the 1504-4 and
K-33 (or probably any other conventional driver - Altec included). It
also has higher power handling and less power compression. Although 8
ohms, the large throat of the FH-1 allows the use of 8 ohm drivers
without modification, unlike the LaScala. 8 ohm drivers allow amps to
run cooler. 2226H = cleanest bass I've heard from the FH-1.

Note
- I found 2 2226H's on Craigslist for $75. They were reconed by an
authorized JBL service center for $336. This works out to $205.50 per
driver. New 2226's run from $400-500 each, from what I've seen.

2. Peavey 1504-4
- available (for now), designed for the FH-1 bin, has less distortion
and higher power handling than the K-33. Large vent mags are most
desirable. Replacement baskets are about $85 @ www.8thstreetmusic.com. I
have 6 complete spares (for my "C" rig), all have large vent mags/new
baskets. If you're interested, I could part with 2.

BTW
- the distortion people complain about w/Peavey drivers is caused by
the VC gap contaminated by old, deteriorated mag vent filter foam, which
is easily cleaned.

3. K-33 - the distortion I
measured was bunched up at the low end, much like what happens when a 2"
driver is mismatched to a 1" horn. This was noted with 3 separate
drivers. Although I could not hear much difference between it and the
1504-4, my son could.

FWIW, I have used Peavey 1505-4 DT
baskets at the club, when I was in a bind. Peavey might also suggest
the 1502-4. Eminence suggested the Kappa-15C.

As for criteria, try to stay within 10-15% of the following Peavey T/S parameters:

Model 1504-4DT

Re 3.5

Fs 31.3

QTS .29

QMS 6.2

QES .32

VAS 385l

No 3.6%

Xmax +/-3.0 (6.0)

VD 240

SD 840*

*From BassBox Pro 6.0.22

These
are really mid-bass cabs. If you're looking for low end - use boundary
loading to your advantage - try placing them in corners.

If you
go vented, you might be able to use a Q2 +6db bump filter @ box tuning,
if needed. Just make sure you have at least a 12db HP filter set 5Hz
below box tuning. If you go this route, your amp will need lots of
headroom. Model first to check cone excursion.





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  • 9 years later...

Was going to try pulling the K33p’s from my Cornwalls (all original xovers etc.) and replace with a pair of JBL 2226H 15’s I have sitting idle. Will power with a Nikko Alpha 440 and Gamma 20 Pre Amp. any input from the community on what I might expect to gain or loose? I’m not quite there yet on all the speaker parameter do’s and dont’s yet but learning as I go and trying not to damage anything along the way. Thx

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You'll likely lose some sound quality.  Klipsch woofers are not expensive units, but the speaker cabinet and crossover/balancing network are built around the stock woofer.  Installing a different woofer, even if it's more expensive or more highly regarded, will usually cause a disappointing loss in sound quality, because now a mismatch exists between the woofer and the rest of the speaker.

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