Jump to content

How far from a Klipsch type horn can I possibly get?


Rudy81

Recommended Posts

Rudy,Rudy,Rudy, I really thought you were satisfied this time !!

 

You know me, I'm always trying to tweak something!

have you considered flipping one of the drivers around to offset suspension differences? Install in the opposite direction and reverse polarity. not quite the results of a nested PPSL but better than what you have there now so long as you don't mind looking at the back side of one of the drivers. Best regards Moray James.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Moray James, I did look into various configurations and actually built a couple of push-pull OB versions, like the Linkwitz W frame.  

 

I don't mind looking at the back of the driver, but after my research I decided it really wasn't worth going to the trouble of modifying my attachment method to accommodate the driver being installed backwards.  

 

When I have time I will revisit he idea. I know it is a popular method to reduce some of the even order distortion.

 

I had really hoped to build a PPSL configuration due to the improved low end performance and more compact structure. However, there was no free lunch and the limited response on the higher frequencies steered me back to the H-frame.  

 

I do, after all, have multiple RSW-15s handling anything down to 20Hz and they play very well with my system.  The only reason I would have gone with a different build would have been if I could build an OB that could go down to 20Hz cleanly......could not find any such animal.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally got a chance yesterday to finish the technical setup of the H-frame LF open baffles. I took  several frequency sweeps to determine my XO points and to set the time delays correctly.

 

By way of comparison, this is the sweep I took 'in room', unmodified, raw data. The red line is the new H-frame, the purple line was the old I-frame open baffle. Same drivers.

 

I seem to have gotten better LF performance with the more compact OB. Thus far, I am very pleased with the results.

 

Since I use RSW-15s for the very low end on each front channel, I decided to set the XO at 90Hz rather than EQ the H-frame.  The subs do a very nice job down to 20Hz so I might as well use them for the lower two octaves.  

 

I'm currently waiting on Bob Crites' shipment of grille fabric.  Time to dress up the H-frames.

post-8233-0-19380000-1418401055_thumb.jp

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This round of changes complete.

 

Decided to dress up the H-frames a bit and get away from the 'industrial' look I have been using for some time.  I built some grille frames and Bob Crites sold me two yards of the new Klipsch replacement fabric. BTW, that fabric is very similar to the original, it does seem a little shinier to me.

 

While I was at it, I decided to also make grills for the two RSW-15's.  I have been looking for years for replacement grilles for these with no luck.  So, a DIY solution was in order.

post-8233-0-28440000-1418768359_thumb.jp

post-8233-0-54920000-1418768369_thumb.jp

post-8233-0-00280000-1418768379_thumb.jp

Edited by Rudy81
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is your crossover point to the big horn on top?

 

Oris 150 is a fc150 horn. I think crossing it around 200-220hz is a smart thing to do.

very nice job Ruddy, I'm waiting for three pairs of Oris 150 to arrive here to put some 1772 and Fostex 206 behind them.

well done 47b20s0.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

I hate to resuscitate old posts, but I just made some notable changes to my Oris and center channel that were worth mentioning. 

This started when @rplace decided to to the Oris route.  He took the opportunity to listen to the Tang Band drivers as well as the Audio Nirvana (AN).  He chose the AN drivers and commented on how much better they performed vs. the Tangs.  I couldn't resist, so I ordered one AN 8" AlniCo driver to do some A/B comparison with my Tang Bands. My initial impression was that the AN driver is better in higher frequencies, as @rplace had noted.   More detailed and accurate in that hf region, enough to take the leap and order another two drivers.

 

Drivers were installed a couple of days ago and I took time to run REW sweeps to see just how capable the driver was. In the Oris, it performed very well, but of course rolled off near 150hz as expected.  The center open baffle driver, in a 20hz-20kHz sweep, produced good results from 40hz to 20kHz.....just amazing for a single driver. 

 

Installation is now complete in the media room with Audyssey Pro runs complete.  One important change was that I changed the crossover point for the Oris to 200hz.  Those horns and the center OB have no problem getting down to 200hz and thus avoiding any crossover in the mid bass region.  The open baffle 15" drivers are crossed from 100hz-200hz. Below 100hz, the dual RSW-15's (actively controlled) take me down to 20hz.  The crossovers are all set as Linkwitz-Riley 24dB/oct.  One of these days I'll get around to playing around with the various crossovers in Ashly crossover. 

 

In summary, if you are in the market for 8" full range drivers, spend a little more and get the AN drivers.  The next level up from there are the Lowther and AER variety, which are big bucks!

ANCenter.jpg

ANDriverMounted.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sold on these horns. Still want to hear some jubilees. Rudy has been fantastic at helping me through my Oris endeavor. I think I'm going to concoct a 2-way center channel this fall/winter with an AN 8" driver. For any future readers I'd give the AN drivers the nod over Tang Band....but the TBs are no slouch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agreed, the Tangs are no slouch.  Bang for the buck, they do perform very well.  However, for an extra $100 or so per driver, you can achieve better performance. At least that continues to be my impression.  I did not expect the ANs to better the Tangs.  On paper, the Tangs have a larger X-max and other stats that would indicate they would be a better driver for an open baffle and even an Oris.

 

Reality was different.  The ANs can hold their own in the bottom end both in the Oris and an open baffle.  The major difference, IMHO, was in the high frequencies and an ability to perform better in terms of transparency, clarity and overall detail in music.  I have yet to use them for a movie, but will report if I find anything negative. I am very glad, so far, that I purchased the AN drivers to replace the TB drivers. 2 ch music has a superior quality with the new drivers. 

 

I'm still blown away the Oris can comfortably go down to 200hz. I had not tried that since I wanted to keep away from the 150hz roll off inherent in the Oris 150 design.  I'm glad @rplacealso moved me in that direction. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I thought I'd update this long thread in case someone goes down this trail in the future.  I have been living with the H Frame open baffles for a little over four years.  The OB system definitely has a very clean and excellent sound.  Like all other things in audio, there is a trade-off.  The big trade-off as all of you know is the lack of lower frequency range. Particularly since I have not bee using ideal drivers for an OB setup. I decided to try and improve the lower frequency range of my system.  I worked with some PPSL prototypes which lacked the upper range I need to mate with the Oris horns.  I finally decided to go back to the old ported cabinet.

 

I received quite a bit of help and 'supervision' from LTD02, and I am indebted to him for his help. I ended up using the 15" Kappalite 3015LF drivers I already have in a 12 cu. ft. ported enclosure, tuned to 25hz.  Goal has been to have a true 2-way system with the Oris horns that can get down to 20hz.  12cu. ft. is a big box, but I could not find a way to make it any smaller and still achieve my goal. 

 

I built one cabinet as a test bed and it turned out as planned.  25hz tuning and it does work well from 20hz to approximately 500hz where we run into the port resonance.  From 20hz to about 70hz it does need EQ to provide a somewhat flat response.  I have been listening to it for the last few days and am very pleased.  I have been doing quite a bit of A/B comparing with the other main speaker.  The open baffle sounds similar, BUT lacks that lower mid bass 'slam'.  Much better sound in the lower octaves from the new ported box.  So....goodbye to the OB H frames and am now building the other two cabinets for the center and main channel.  It will be nice to go 2-way and get rid of the RSW-15s that have been playing the low end support role.

 

 

MidMartyClose.jpg

Mid-Marty-Relative-SM.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...