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Chase Home Theater sub SS 18.1 first impression


derrickdj1

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Subwoofer scare after watching The Avenger. A couple of hour later while watching TV, a loud pop form the subs followed by a grinding noise from the subs. I could not have over driven the subs since the system was not past -5 during the good parts of The Avengers. I found that it was the new amp from Parts Express after try the subs on my little Carve M 400 I ask for a refund and declined the exchange from Parts Express.

Today I brought a Crown XLS 1500 which is 500 watts greater than the Dayton SA 1000 amp. I hooked it up in Bridge Mode and wa la, an annoying Ground Loop Hum, D@%, D&@#, D#$ !!! I tried different outlet, different RCA cords and no luck. The amp sits on one of the subs around 12 from the avr. I went to the garage and got one of mu 15 ft power cords that I use outside. Long story on the short, I hooked it into the Rocketfish Power conditioner and wa la, no hum.

After reading post on ground loops, I don't recall advising plug everything into one source such as a power strip to get rid of the ground loop hum. If I over looked that please pardon my oversight. I just thought this may help someone else out .

There is no fan noise from the light weight heavy hitting Crown amp which a plus for a pro amp. Now I need to read up on using tube amp for 2 channel listening since I purchased a Yaqin VK 2100 integrated amp.

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But now you've got a Crown! Devil

I kept the Crown for one day and switched to the Crown xls 2500 and stopped messing around. This seems to give a better under 20 Hz performance with these sealed subs. The Pioneer avr is xo at 80 Hz and the sub lpf is set at 67 Hz. I am finding with the pro amp and subs that I can't turn the frequency all the way up wihtout localization. The 80/67 Hz combo seems to provide a nice blend of everything with the speakers set to small.

I have consider a BFD but the Pioneer does a good job with the sub down to 63 Hz and adjust the phase between the speakers and sub. The Crown does not have a phase adjustment control. The PEQ on the Dayton amp only seemed good for taking down a peak above 63 which was not needed and the 6 db bass boost at 20 Hz. Any thoughts on tweaking the system?

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If have to ask my buddy jonathon who has one. He ran a coue captivators then upgraded to something else and runs 4 transducers off of it. You can limit watts put out and all kinds if stuff. It's what I'm gonna shoot for once I figure out what subs ill be moving too.

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I was looking on line and seen this...

They are roughly $5-6 and Guitar Center can order the I Nuke300 DSP for $399 with a 3-5 day wait. Amazon has it for $365. It is cheaper than the Crown amps. I was watch The Grey to night and can still activate the clip indicators at -5 on the avr without the subs running hot. I really need to slow down a figure out just what I want with this setup ; I want to get the best bass with these subs. I don't need louder or more extension at this point, lol. Chase has an MQ 600 amp that can have up to 4 subs on it for $600 but no DSP. It is a little stronger than the I Nuke 3000 DPS or Crown XLS 2500. I made a small case to put the amp in that will sit on top of the sub since I don't want a rack.

I have to get this straight before I get my tube amp and get caught in that setup and see which direction to go with it. If I am as happy with the tube amp as I am with the SC 35 and the Reference system, that will be ok with me. I just want it because it looks cool, lol.

Thanks Scrappydue I like the ideal of the I Nuke 3000 dsp !

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I was watch The Grey to night and can still activate the clip indicators at -5 on the avr without the subs running hot.

You definitely don't want to send a clipped signal to the sub amp. Turn the avr's sub output level down on your avr and turn the gain up to compensate on your sub amp.

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I set the subs up in a bridge mode. The avr sub level is a -0.5 and the gain on the sub amp is around 2 O'clock . This gives a value of 0 for the sub trim in the avr's advance bass management. The clip light only flashes momentarily. The subs RMS/Peak is 800/1600 watts. I know with the Dayton amp the clip light only meant you were nearing the limit and if it did not stay on no problem. On the Crown amps the clip lights flash for just an instant also and as long as 2 red dots don't stay light it only means your are approaching the limits. The subs never seemed to be in danger and no noticeable distortion or uncontrol driver movement.

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On further reading the red light is most likely the limiter being engaged. So, things are safe and there is anothe 3-5 db of headrom. The Crown xls 2500 or Berhinger I Nuke 3000 DPS should fit this system since the most watt that a 15amp curcuit can put out is around 1800. I have seen the watts rreading on the power console fo near 900. When I was running the Epik Legen, PA 150 and SVS 25-31 I never went past around 600 watt and mostly ranged low to mid 500.

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Well after UPS loosing my first Berhinger amp, I finally got one from another retailer since the first retailer said he would not have any for a week or two. The Berhinger 3000 DSP has some nice features such as PEQ, DEQ, selectable filters. XO, bass boost at selectable Hz level and a GUI screen that comes up on the computer which makes setup fairly easy if you do it with tech support on the line.

I watched the opening of The Avenger and could feel my pant leg shake. These subs could get by on the I Nuke 6000 looking at the driver displacement and touching them. . The mid bass is less than the QSC so far since I am on the learning curve. The one thing I am not crazy about, it is louder than the Dayton amp or the QSC amp. It is not bad and I will hold off on a fan mod for a while. This amp has the flexiblity to dial in the bass for a nice sound. I am sure I am not finish with the tweaks, lol. Thanks for the tip Scrappydue.

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For the Pioneer owners, the PEQ allows you to bump or lower up to 8 frequencies. This allows me to cut the mid-bass boost at the xo and raise the 20 Hz band for a more flatter response. There does not seem to be a lot under the 63 Hz area to do. I have always wonder what Auddyssey base systems had over the MCACC room correction system. MCACC adjust the phase with sub distance and I have not seen any need to adust it with the INUKE DSP or adjust the time domains avaible for the subs. MCACC is an excellent correction system IMHO.

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You've got me interested in trying out a pair of these subs. Right now I've got a couple of Behringer EP4000's, a DEQ2496 and an Ultragain Pro adjustable high-pass filter that I'm using with a pair of 18" EV subs. The subs just aren't really cutting it for me anymore and the upgrade bug is kicking in again....

The equipment and amps I have should work well for use with these subs, no?[*-)]

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Here is a page from CEA on the VS 18.1 compared to a lot of very good subs, http://www.data-bass.com/systems. The VS 18.1 could hit 104 db at 16 Hz and has a max spl of 128 db. The sub could have did a little better since the spl represent when the amp was giving out and not the sub. I tried the Dayton SA 1000, Crown XLS 1500 and 2500 and my SS 18.1's could take more without a problem. The difference for me is going from great theater to IMAX.

I was watch the opening scene of The Grey today/ The plane crash scene made me have to pop my ears like I was in a pressurized cabinet, lol. That is a great demo piece for LFE.

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