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ninjai18

Anyone I can buy ported 5.6 cu ft enclosures from?

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I really need a couple of 5-6 cu ft ported boxes made for my TC Sounds TC2000 15" drivers. Anyone out there that's willing to do this?

Edited by ninjai18

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The size you're asking for, from what I know, is larger than like the Dayton boxes from Parts Express.

 

Just go to a local kitchen cabinet shop. Anyone with a Tablesaw.

 

They'll be able to fix you up at any stage or level of fanciness you want,from inexpensive MDF on up.

 

They can cut holes for drivers, or give you the front motorboard however you want.

 

You can assemble, or have them do it.

 

I really recommend - to decide what you want then get like 3 quotes.

 

For something quick and small like this- shops can really vary like $100 at one place and $400 somewhere else.  Lars

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I'm sure somewhere there are boxes of your size, but even flat pack, what with your weight ballpark 35 lbs + each, the shipping $ probably will kill or exceed any savings over local..  Lars

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The size you're asking for, from what I know, is larger than like the Dayton boxes from Parts Express.

 

Just go to a local kitchen cabinet shop. Anyone with a Tablesaw.

 

They'll be able to fix you up at any stage or level of fanciness you want,from inexpensive MDF on up.

 

They can cut holes for drivers, or give you the front motorboard however you want.

 

You can assemble, or have them do it.

 

I really recommend - to decide what you want then get like 3 quotes.

 

For something quick and small like this- shops can really vary like $100 at one place and $400 somewhere else.  Lars

 

I think I'm going to look into this, great idea! :) What specifically should I be looking for. cabinet shops?

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I mean, all ya gotta do is call a few small local kitchen cabinet shops. Any guy that can make those, can easily make speaker enclosures, has the tools, and materials in house.

 

I would call, and first ask if they want to do a basic couple hour job.

 

If yes, I would ask some like -   " ok, all I need is a 1 1/2 x1 1/2  x 3' box of 3/4" minimum MDF or whatever glued and screwed.You supply the material. Gonna be a speaker box.How much ballpark $?"

 

His response will right away tell you if if he's a contender or not.

 

Ask the same question from a few shops, and choose ur guy..

 

Most of them can finish the boxes ( stain and clearcoat) if you want. 

 

They can also do different edge treatments, if you don't want to see the ply's.

 

If you want to upgrade, most of them will have on hand basic hardwood veneer plywoods.

 

And can easily quickly get like Cherry and fancier stuff.

 

When you visit the shop,you can look at voids in the laminations, but my opinion any "cabinet" grade plywood is more than adequate.

 

Some purists will disagree. 

 

Very few of them will do custom veneer, and that would be like 5X the $ +.

 

Of course, you'll want some bracing inside.

 

Excuse me if If my suggestions are obvious, but I don't know your skillset.

 

I live in TX on TX/ LA border. Where are you?  Lars

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O and you maybe could use like the Dayton boxes by putting 2 together and cutting out the center leaving a "braced" passage at the coupling.

 

If so, that would be cheapest probably.  Lars

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Here is a 5.4 cuft ported box made for an 18" driver, the Stonehenge by DIYSoundgroup.   You need to purchase both the inside and outside panels for this 100 pound knock down kit, a total of $177.

 

Even though the front baffle is made for an 18" I would think the easy part would be cutting a baffle to fit a 15" driver, just make a double front baffle.

 

I don't know if you can tell, but the CNC knockdown cabinet is being held together in this picture by masking tape!  I would suggest if you go this route for your sub you might want to use glue instead of tape.  :lol:

 

 

complete.jpg

Edited by wvu80

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Dave…would duct tape hold that box together? :D

 

Well, this forum is known for overkill in everything it does, so I guess the answer is yes.  B)

+++

 

I have a couple of DIY kits in which I used the flat packs from Erich.  The tolerances on those flat packs are so precise Erich used to claim all it would take is masking tape to hold it together.  Like everyone else I used clamps but it would be fun sometime to use nothing but glue and masking tape and put that claim to the test, like Mythbusters.

 

I'm betting the myth would not be busted!

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O and you maybe could use like the Dayton boxes by putting 2 together and cutting out the center leaving a "braced" passage at the coupling.

 

If so, that would be cheapest probably.  Lars

 

But it wouldn't have a port...

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Just FYI

 The Stonehenge is N.A. Erich says it was made for the SI 18" subwoofer and since that is no longer available he doesn't know if or when the Stonehenge will be available again.

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Just FYI

 The Stonehenge is N.A. Erich says it was made for the SI 18" subwoofer and since that is no longer available he doesn't know if or when the Stonehenge will be available again.

 

Ah, I did not know that.  The engineering in that thing is overbuilt and complex, but it's just so cool looking!  I know Erich has those flat packs made up in batches so that particular one may have seen its last days.  Hopefully there will be another design to take its place.

 

Erich ought to take the listing down but I know he is so busy with so many other things the web site is probably the last thing to get updated.

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O and you maybe could use like the Dayton boxes by putting 2 together and cutting out the center leaving a "braced" passage at the coupling.

 

If so, that would be cheapest probably.  Lars

 

But it wouldn't have a port...

 

Ya just cut in the appropriate ports, and probably pop in port tubes - Parts express.

 

 

Check out the Marty Cube.  Note the cut list.  Go to the local Homedepot or Lowes and have the wood cut for you. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1648673-martysub-faq.html

 

That's for 18" Stereo Integrity drivers. I need a cut list for a TC Sounds TC2000 15" driver.

 

As Wvu80 sed - "Even though the front baffle is made for an 18" I would think the easy part would be cutting a baffle to fit a 15" driver, just make a double front baffle"

 

Lars.

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O and you maybe could use like the Dayton boxes by putting 2 together and cutting out the center leaving a "braced" passage at the coupling.

 

If so, that would be cheapest probably.  Lars

 

But it wouldn't have a port...

 

Ya just cut in the appropriate ports, and probably pop in port tubes - Parts express.

 

 

Check out the Marty Cube.  Note the cut list.  Go to the local Homedepot or Lowes and have the wood cut for you. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1648673-martysub-faq.html

 

That's for 18" Stereo Integrity drivers. I need a cut list for a TC Sounds TC2000 15" driver.

 

As Wvu80 sed - "Even though the front baffle is made for an 18" I would think the easy part would be cutting a baffle to fit a 15" driver, just make a double front baffle"

 

Lars.

 

 

Oh I see, hmm, very interesting idea! Which two should I combine to make 6 cubic foot cabinets? It seems like combining two 3 cubic foot cabinets would actually end up being more than 6 cubic feet, seeing as how long it would be.

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? "Oh I see, hmm, very interesting idea! Which two should I combine to make 6 cubic foot cabinets? It seems like combining two 3 cubic foot cabinets would actually end up being more than 6 cubic feet, seeing as how long it would be." ???

 

Please restate above. What are you asking?  

 

If you slap two cabs together, technically, after you cut a large opening to make them a " common " airspace, you will gain, o i dunno, like ballpark around 200 inch cubed.( .116 ft. 3)

 

Somebody more knowlegable about design paremeter importances could tell you if that matters or not..Lars

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The above would only increase the volume by .5%, I believe we don't care.

 

If I did my calcs right.  Lars

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