Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community
Sign in to follow this  
Skillz4lif

Need help understanding if this could be used for home theater.

Recommended Posts

I have been looking for a subwoofer to add to my HT and have been thinking about going with a passive sub. Can someone take a look at the description and pictures then let me know if I would be able to use this for my setup? I've attached the link to the CL post below.

 

https://richmond.craigslist.org/msg/6061575809.html

 

Custom 18" passive subwoofer cabinet patterned after the JBL EON618S (Same dimensions, different styling). 1/2" Birch 7-ply plywood. 1400 Watts peak, 4 ohms. Crossover at 150 hz. 18" JBL Premium Transducer; the same one from the JBL EON618S. 2-Speakon, 2 - 1/4" plug jacks wired in parallel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't see any frequency specs on the subs but normally P A subs don't dig near low enough for HT.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info. I found specs on the speakers they were based on but there's no way to tell what the DIY ones can do. Plus they are listed as a stage sub.

 

  • JBL Premium Transducers
  • 1000 W highly efficient Class-D amplification
  • Maximum SPL Output: 134dB
  • System Type: Self powered 18” Subwoofer
  • Frequency Range (-10dB): 31Hz - 150Hz
  • Frequency Response (- 3dB): 42.5Hz - 150Hz
  • Bluetooth Control
  • JBL Engineered Crossover Presets
  • M20 Pole Cup
  • Rugged, stage-ready Duraflex enclosure

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm no expert by any means but what stands out to me is that the low end range of 31Hz seems high for what I would expect from an 18" subwoofer. 

 

My SVS SB2000 (12" sealed) is rated at 19Hz. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, RX8 said:

I'm no expert by any means but what stands out to me is that the low end range of 31Hz seems high for what I would expect from an 18" subwoofer. 

 

My SVS SB2000 (12" sealed) is rated at 19Hz. 

I see what you mean. I'm trying to upgrade from a SW-450 and that's lower than this as well at 28Hz.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In not knowing the designer/builder theres a big risk as to how well it will work.  With enough research u could figure it out.  But at 400 u can either build an ez diy sub or buy a used quality sub, including klipsch r115sw or an svs sub.  I would rather buy or build a known design than risk hoping someone else did this right.  Why mimic an existing sub when there are so many designs available?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here on our craigslist i see 115sw at 450 500 and 600 all the time lately.  Svs had a sale on svs sbnsds for 400 new and are prob still on ebay new.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There was recently a sub for sale in the garage sale section....I think it was a Danley DTS-10.

 

It will shake your booty!

 

Oh, and I personally know the seller...  not a bad dude.

 

:ph34r:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Skillz4lif said:

Custom 18" passive subwoofer cabinet patterned after the JBL EON618S (Same dimensions, different styling). 1/2" Birch 7-ply plywood. 1400 Watts peak, 4 ohms. Crossover at 150 hz. 18" JBL Premium Transducer; the same one from the JBL EON618S. 2-Speakon, 2 - 1/4" plug jacks wired in parallel

 

 

1/2" plywood - I honestly think it will probably rattle and shake itself out, unless its got that 1/2" as veneer on top of a 3/4" MDF. Or its got a whole mattress stuffed inside it.

Cool.

Srinath.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

PA subs are more for high output and to get decent response on the low end you would need a DSP with some EQ to boost the low end. I have some JBL cinema subs with dual 15s and the specs are similar. But they handle a massive amount of power. I have the low end boosted and smoothed out from 30hz - 50hz by boosting at 30-35 and cutting from 50-80. It doesn't handle 1600 watts now but I'm only pushing it with 600w and it sounds pretty good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/1/2017 at 4:35 AM, Skillz4lif said:

Thanks for the info. I found specs on the speakers they were based on but there's no way to tell what the DIY ones can do. Plus they are listed as a stage sub.

 

  • JBL Premium Transducers
  • 1000 W highly efficient Class-D amplification
  • Maximum SPL Output: 134dB
  • System Type: Self powered 18” Subwoofer
  • Frequency Range (-10dB): 31Hz - 150Hz
  • Frequency Response (- 3dB): 42.5Hz - 150Hz
  • Bluetooth Control
  • JBL Engineered Crossover Presets
  • M20 Pole Cup
  • Rugged, stage-ready Duraflex enclosure

 10 db down at 31hz tells you all you need to know. this isn't a good HT choice. it would need a lot of dsp to try and flatten out and that would require a LOT of amp power. it's also highly efficient and may not sonically blend with what else you have

 

subs are the easiest things in the world to get right. lots of good choices. this just isn't one of them. FYI frys has that klipsch 15 on sale for 399 this week with promo code

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
24 minutes ago, racebum said:

 10 db down at 31hz tells you all you need to know. this isn't a good HT choice. it would need a lot of dsp to try and flatten out and that would require a LOT of amp power. it's also highly efficient and may not sonically blend with what else you have

 

subs are the easiest things in the world to get right. lots of good choices. this just isn't one of them. FYI frys has that klipsch 15 on sale for 399 this week with promo code

I've been trying to catch that sale for a while. Unfortunately, there aren't any near me and the shipping option isn't available for the deal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As awesome as the 15 is, many of us here can steer you towards a DIY project that will blow that away, if you have an interest?

 

My 2c is you have to want at least 2 subs to really make it worthwhile, but for around $800-$1000, depending upon what you were to build, you could have 2 subs that can match up to the best from SVS but won't cost $2k each :)

 

Let us know, and we'll take you down that rabbit hole.....

 

If you are having trouble getting a Klipsch 15 at a good price and don't want DIY, I would suggest one option being an SVS sub, almost any of them do a great job at a fair price.  $400/$550 it's very easy to get a lower end new one or a used mid-range one that can still meet if not beat the specs of the R115SW.  

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, racebum said:

10 db down at 31hz tells you all you need to know. this isn't a good HT choice. it would need a lot of dsp to try and flatten out and that would require a LOT of amp power.

This is just a bit of the problem.  Over boosting with DSP and power will mean Xmax and Xmech of the driver will be reached sooner and sub damage goes up exponentially.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, RoboKlipsch said:

As awesome as the 15 is, many of us here can steer you towards a DIY project that will blow that away, if you have an interest?

 

My 2c is you have to want at least 2 subs to really make it worthwhile, but for around $800-$1000, depending upon what you were to build, you could have 2 subs that can match up to the best from SVS but won't cost $2k each :)

 

Let us know, and we'll take you down that rabbit hole.....

 

If you are having trouble getting a Klipsch 15 at a good price and don't want DIY, I would suggest one option being an SVS sub, almost any of them do a great job at a fair price.  $400/$550 it's very easy to get a lower end new one or a used mid-range one that can still meet if not beat the specs of the R115SW.  

 

 

I've certainly thought about going the DIY route. There's been a few links tossed around here, that's I've taken a look at but I've never actually tried it. I'm willing to listen though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, derrickdj1 said:

This is just a bit of the problem.  Over boosting with DSP and power will mean Xmax and Xmech of the driver will be reached sooner and sub damage goes up exponentially.

 

absolutely which in turn means more amp power for less spl as you're chewing up watts trying to flatten out. it's just not a good fit

 

also x2 on the svs suggestion from another. they are well engineered, however, choose honestly. if you have a large room or like getting loud you need large ported drivers. popular subs like the sb12nsd which can be had for 399 is great in  a smaller bedroom with 8ft ceilings. it is however out of it's intended use in a living room or large open rooms. the pb2000 is where the higher output subs start. 

 

or. if you have deep pockets and want something that's also REALLY musical the JL Audio fathom F113 is a madman. that 13w7 driver they use sounds amazing for how much xmax it has. not 100% sure why JL chose to go sealed and small box. that sub is more efficient ported. then again that means a large box

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, Skillz4lif said:

I've certainly thought about going the DIY route. There's been a few links tossed around here, that's I've taken a look at but I've never actually tried it. I'm willing to listen though.

$300 per driver/box combo for a 15" Ultimax/HO sealed sub

$400 per driver/box combo for a 18" Ultimax/HO sealed sub

$200-$400 for an INUKE to run them, depending upon which one and if a sale price is found or bought used

There's some paint and sanding required too, but not all that much for these setups.

 

If you want more output down low, ported sub builds become a better investment.

Some people have good woodworking skills, and can build a box on their own easily from plans.

Others want to buy a kit from diysoundgroup and that's much easier, a bit pricier.

 

So build a ported sub from scratch you're talking under $100 per sub materials, plus the driver

Build from a kit, you're talking $150-$200 for the kit plus the driver

 

So build from scratch you're at maybe $200 for 2 boxes plus drivers.'

Build from kits you're at probably $400 for 2 boxes plus drivers

And then an amp

 

The difference in output from the ported, down low, is huge, but building a ported sub, especially from scratch requires care to be taken.

Then there are horns, but those require you to build from scrach and are often a precision-build where it's critical to get it right.

 

Technically you could build a Parts Express flat pack with an Ultimax or RO in just a couple days.

But it is work, and more than people expect.  But a lot of fun, and hugely gratifying to do.

 

That's my short version :) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
25 minutes ago, Skillz4lif said:

I would certainly try the kit. I wouldn't even want to waste my time trying to do it from scratch.

Once you do a kit and see how it's done a scratch build isn't so daunting.  Heck, if I can build one I would think anyone could.  You'll need some decent tools and a little patience as well.  There's enough members here on the forum who've done it to talk you through pretty much any issues you'll encounter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...