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Maybe my wife is right


TFR1

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On ‎1‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 2:14 PM, avguytx said:

do some small test veneer pieces on similar plywood.

 

I agree with avguytx that you should do several samples so you can get familiar with veneer lay out, glue thickness, clamping (or ironing), etc. etc. A practice cube is ideal, but you can start out just veneering some scrap pieces of plywood or MDF to get the feel for it.

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This past week I was unable to devote any time to Klipsch projects.

I did spend some computer time reading about applying veneers. 

I have almost been persuaded to use a veneer with a PSA backing.  PSA (AKA peal and stick) has the advantage of simplicity. No worry about proper application of contact cement or dry times. No concern about too hot or too cold when ironing a Heat Lock adhesive system.

I am capable if messing  up any of the adhesive systems, so I will likely choose the simplest one.

 

I am still interested in hearing from anyone that has veneered a cabinet.

 

Jerry

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I have user PSA veneer to repair speaker tops...They actually came out pretty nice. I have done this on a pair of Quartets.

I also use PSA on all the risers I have redone

Not sure about doing an entire speaker. I ordered what I needed from Rockler.

 

George

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On 1/28/2018 at 3:29 PM, TFR1 said:

@avguytx

 

I purchased paper backed veneer.

The process is just a little intimidating.

After all the effort to rescue cabinets, I am just a bit nervous. Mistakes in veneer would seem difficult to fix.

 

Any suggestions for reading material?

I think I've watched a couple of dozen YouTube videos.

 

Jerry

 

First project with paper backed veneer. Clean up those cabinets as best you can. Just go buy yourself a good iron and a gallon of Titebond.

Coat both the veneer and cabinet with glue and start ironing (high heat) when almost not tacky.  Edges need babying with a good knife and sanding to make sure you don't trash your work but not really terrible.

20170216_065948.jpg

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Finished all the repair work on my Cornwall cabinets this weekend.

I think they will provide a good base for the flat cut walnut veneer I have chosen.

Pictures of the "ready for veneer" cabs are included below.

 

It seems that everyone has their own approach to how to apply veneer.

Some have suggested that edge banding goes on first. Others apply edge banding last. 

Any thoughts on advantage of one method or the other?

 

I did a 12 x 12 inch veneer sample using contact cement and a piece of paper backed birds eye maple. It was very easy. I suspect that the 16 x 36 inch panels will not be so simple.

 

Even with no previous experience building or repairing cabinets, this has been a lot of fun.

While out last week looking at veneer suppliers, I bought 2 sheets of Baltic Birch. Enough to build 2 new Cornwall cabinets!

It will certainly be easier to build new than what has been required to repair this first pair.

 

 

jerry

 

 

 

Future Cornwall project.jpg

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20180211_171250 copy.jpg

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When you're doing larger pieces of veneer on panels and using contact cement, your best bet is to space some wooden dowels across the panel you're putting the veneer on, get it lined up, then start from the center and work your way outward.  Remove one dowel at a time and press with a piece of wood, like a 3" wide piece of Baltic Birch sanded "slightly" rounded on the edges of one end.  That gives you more contact pressure as you're pushing the veneer towards the edges to prevent bubbling.  Trying to remove a piece after it's pressed into place is impossible, too.  If you use the heat activated method with Heat Lock glue, you get to move the veneer around and lined up before you apply the heat, plus, if you get it a little off center, you can add a little heat and move it some.

 

I had to use contact cement with the ribbon mahogany I used on my Belle's as it had a phenolic backer which would not work the same with wood glue/heat lock method.  I did the edge banding last as to make any line from the phenolic backer more invisible since it was thicker than the usual veneer.  When I get around to re-veneering my two pairs of Dynaco A25's in Walnut, I'll most likely go the Heat Lock method as they are fairly small.

 

Those are looking awesome, by the way.

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Started to apply 'banding' this evening, not that difficult, but getting the miter cuts perfect is a big job.

 

My biggest surprise today was discovering that the 4 x 8 sheet of walnut veneer will not yield enough material to cover my Cornwall's.

How could I have miscalculated? 36" + 25-1/2" + 36" = 97-1/2" . An 8' long sheet is just a little short. Can't help feeling dumb.

Ordered a 4' x 10' sheet today.

Now that I have extra walnut veneer and banding, maybe that pair of birch Heresy cabinets I just acquired would look good in walnut.

 

Jerry

 

5a83aa1a2d050_WalnutBanding.thumb.jpeg.fcbbd3341405a70bed26188bb3b1eda9.jpeg

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Attached veneer to bottom of cabs last night. Decided that if I made a mistake, no one would see it. 

Still a difficult process for me. Contact adhesive dries quickly. Must get complete coverage before glue dries too much.

Two coats or just one? I applied two, but am reading instructions too be sure for the rest of the panels.

 

"Two coats adhesive on substrate, one coat on veneer."

 

Hopefully o mistakes today.

 

 

Jerry

Bottom both Cabs.jpg

Test fit.jpeg

Test fit top.jpg

Checking top to side match.jpg

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Got veneer attached to bottom of cabinets last night.
 
Laying out veneer to get a good match on side and top. 
I keep reminding myself...." perfection is enemy of tge good"
 
So tedious trying to get it right.
 
Jerry
 
Nice looking build.

I'll be doing the same in about a week, only with a Cinema F20 subwoofer (I wanted it to match the Fortes that I've got).

My father in law helped me build the cab this weekend, and I can't wait to finish it out.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

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