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K402 TAD4002 and Peavey FH1 active blend

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I'm loving 402s with the Khorn bass bins in my living room so how to get that amazing horn into my basement HT...

When an old pair of Peavey FH1s came up not far away on CL I jumped especially when the seller described them as having replacement Klipsch woofers.  Can anyone help me id these?

PeaveyKlipschWoofer.jpg

PeaveyKlipschWooferLabelClose.jpg

PeaveyKlipschWooferLabeled4ohm.jpg

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They sure look like Crites cast frame woofers (15").  I could be wrong...

 

But if true, every Hornresp simulation that I used them in did very well in a horn loaded role.

 

Chris

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Since they have cast frmes, I am thinking they may me a pair from Bob Crites. Is there a label on the back of the magnet structure? Or show the eminence part number on the visible label on the side of the magnet...

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Chris beat me to it...

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thanks for the responses guys.  No labels on back.  Here's a better look at the clearer of the 2 side labels.  Now I'm off to bed.

PeaveyWooferLabelCloser.jpg

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Here is a link to some information about that style woofer, https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/149117-help-with-identifying-this-15in-sub/

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thanks Khornupkopia.  The evidence is that it's the same as a K48:

https://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/vt.mpl?f=hug&m=145503

 

"I emailed Eminence about 15677 years ago and was told it is the K-48-E woofer with Fs 42 hz, qt.35, vas 166 liters, 97udb 1w/1m and 4 ohm impedance"

 

 

Not sure if this K-48 equivalent is a good match for FH-1.  Interesting post from a few years ago by Moray James makes me want to look for JBL 2226H

 

 

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As in the LaScala, a K48 will give less lower bass and better mid bass. I think that is correct.

 

Bruce

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Ah!  thanks Marvel.  Maybe another driver then since I'll be crossing this quite low to the K402 with the TADs, right?  It won't have to go up >500Hz to meet a smaller horn/driver even if it's more capable to do that than the Khorn bass bin for example.    I'm assuming it's better to keep more mid bass in the big horn/CD than in the folded wood.

 

Recommendations for alternate woofers?

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On 10/23/2018 at 10:00 PM, Chris A said:

They sure look like Crites cast frame woofers (15").  I could be wrong...

 

But if true, every Hornresp simulation that I used them in did very well in a horn loaded role.

 

Chris

They may be K-48's because the magnet is much larger than Crites 1526C. The high BL product tips the response to the midrange side rather than the bass, which is pretty thin to begin with, since the FH-1 is a short W bin horn (a tad better than a LaScala, I might add). I have owned 10 of those over time and had different woofers in there too.

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On 10/24/2018 at 1:23 PM, Delicious2 said:

Ah!  thanks Marvel.  Maybe another driver then since I'll be crossing this quite low to the K402 with the TADs, right?  It won't have to go up >500Hz to meet a smaller horn/driver even if it's more capable to do that than the Khorn bass bin for example.    I'm assuming it's better to keep more mid bass in the big horn/CD than in the folded wood.

 

Recommendations for alternate woofers?

I have TADs on my Jubilees and you can cross them at 400 with a 24 db/octave slope on your Active Crossover, as long as you use a small amplifier of 10-30 watts with them (and maybe a protections series capacitor if you are paranoid about protecting $2600 worth of Be diaphragms).

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46 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

I have TADs on my Jubilees and you can cross them at 400 with a 24 db/octave slope on your Active Crossover, as long as you use a small amplifier of 10-30 watts with them (and maybe a protections series capacitor if you are paranoid about protecting $2600 worth of Be diaphragms).

Thanks ClaudeJ1.  Good to know about the TADs.  I do use the small amps typically in the living room but not in the HT.  Have to give that some thought.  Stormy rainy Saturday tomorrow.  I should have time to install these and begin configuring.  I'll use the woofers they came with (K48 equivalent?) carefully resealing them with new screws and foam weatherstripping.  Any testing of the drivers I should do first?

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You could run a sweep at 90-100 dB at 1 m of the assembled unit.

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thanks Chris.  So, don't try to do anything with the hatch off?  Re-seal the unit and run an REW sweep (pretty loud) recorded at 1m on the floor, mic about mid height of speaker tilted up at 45 degrees?  and send that to you?  Listen for obvious buzzes and rattles.

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Yes.  You could run a sweep before the doors are closed up, too--listening for buzzing or scraping.  Upsweeps are very revealing--just listening to them.

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6 hours ago, Delicious2 said:

Thanks ClaudeJ1.  Good to know about the TADs.  I do use the small amps typically in the living room but not in the HT.  Have to give that some thought.  Stormy rainy Saturday tomorrow.  I should have time to install these and begin configuring.  I'll use the woofers they came with (K48 equivalent?) carefully resealing them with new screws and foam weatherstripping.  Any testing of the drivers I should do first?

TADs are the best drivers I've ever heard, but there are many I have yet to hear. So many drivers, so little time............................and money!

  • Haha 1

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Whoever resealed this hatch last reversed it so who knows how long it played not sealed properly.  Both drivers seem to check out with low to moderate volume sweeps thankfully.

NotSealedRight.jpg

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Once those FH1s go down the cellar stairs I won't be able to bring them back up alone so I'll enjoy comparing them to the JubeKhorns in the living room first 😋.  I'm wanting to hear not only how the FH1s are different, but of course BMS vs TADs and driver at ear level vs higher.  Oh, and what happens to the soundstage in this room with the speakers a lot closer together.

Comparison402sLP.jpg

Comparison402sSide.jpg

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Not sure how to proceed with attaching the TADs to the K402/stand.  1" allen bolts work fine with washer and lock washer for 2 of the 4 attachment holes but positioning of the other 2 holes on the flange relative to the horn flare is tighter and 1" won't fit.  Maybe just use a shorter bolt with no washers?  Should I be reversing this and looking for (or fabricating) threaded posts to fit the adapter and have washer, lock washer and nut on the horn side?

AttachingTADdriverSide.jpg

AttachingTADhornSide.jpg

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