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What oil for my Cornwalls


Vavoline

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If it has been awhile since they have been oiled and the veneer is getting pretty dry, then give then a good rub-down with boiled linseed oil...be advised that they will remain "wet" for a day or so....do this every day for a week, then every week for a month, then every month for 6 months, then twice a year. General rule of thumb. Best application is French polish technique or bare hand rub for this...but it is messy. You can find boiled linseed oil in any Home Depot, Lowes, and most Wal-marts. You can also find rubbing pads for the application if you choose not to go with bare hand rubbing.

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Wow, you gotta admit that a topic like "What oil for my Cornwalls" by Valvoline is a beguiling title.

Stick with the builder, he knows his Olive Oyl from his Pommade! It's down-to-earth, tell-it-like-it-is, been there - done that guys that makes this Forum a winner! -HornED

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French-polishing was originally used to apply a mixture of shellac and alcohol, but the technique used can also be used to apply oil finishes with very nice results. You use a rubbing pad(these can be found at Home Depot and Lowes)and preferably use some protective gloves. Flood the wood surface with the oil, let it set in for about 15 minutes, then wipe off any excess. Do this once a day for two or three days, then the last application, use the pad to soak up the excess, while gently rubbing the pad in circular motions...keeping the pad in motion from the time it touches the wood until you lift it from the wood...so that no "cloth mark" is left ON the wood's surface. Continue this rubbing technique until you begin to feel the pad "drag" on the surface, then stop. This technique is just like polishing anything outta be...small circular motions.

As for other oils...there are many...some of which are less messy to use, but boiled linseed oil with a bit of walnut stain in it was what was used at the factory, and is still the time-honored standard for oil finishes on black walnut.

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Yes, boiled linseed oil leaves a natural looking finish. It is the same finish the oiled-finish speakers left the plant with. I personally would not use pine oil, because it contains turpentine, which is a cleansing agent, and leads to the wood drying out as the turpentine evaporates off. It is fine for pine, but not for walnut, oak, or its like.

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tigerwoodkhorns,

the quartets i like very much,phisically they are about 1/3 the size of a cornwall, and because of its size it can be more

easely positioned in a room, and can full its space very well with good positioning.

these are used with a ksw12 sub,which helps to give them present.

They reproduce a source very well, sometimes i'am amazed at the sound comming from these speakers as they draw me in,i think they are very ballance the mid are detailed and highs that is crisp without beign bright.

My quartets are now mainly used with HT although not regulated to this position .

and because of this i do get to hear them every day,it would be a hard task to give these up.....

They can go low, the first thing i notice was these are big beautiful things. with a heart that is 15" and never misses a beat.i have had my cornwalls about a year and come to reliase that they are extreamly delicate and needs to be meticlously placed, very inflexable, i love to play jazz and classical on thses.

They are like infants who are able to speak and have not learn to lie,they only repeat what they here from you.this is my impression of the cornwall.

i dont believe i'm getting the best from these at the moment my patio is not as secure as i would need it for putting these out there.

my room is 23x18 and they are positioned on long wall awee bit too far,patio beign 15x18.

One of the best things about the cornwall is its not fitugeing on ears, these speakers are totally different from each other, but like famlily you know they are related. I once tried the cornwall as fronts in HT and quartets in parralel as center this was the closest the quarete came to a sonic match of the cornwall.

I think they're EXCELENT SPEAKERS> although they belong in different rooms

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On 1/4/2003 9:09:55 AM Vavoline wrote:

j-malotky, did you use straight linseed oil or did you mix it with turpentine? How messy was it?

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Vavoline

I used the oil streight out of the can, did not add any stain or anything. It was not too messy. Its consistancy is thicker than water, thinner than clean motor oil, so it desn not run real fast and get all over. I did this indoors so I put my speakers on broken down Cardboard boxes to keep any oil off of the carpet. I used rubber gloves and old cloth rags to apply and rub off the excess. Smell is also not bad.

I plan to put on a second coat this weekend. Not today though - Have a room full of people over tonight for the Packer game and I don't want them to brush up against a newly oiled speaker.

JM

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Dan,

Birchwood Casey's ORIGINAL Tru-oil formula was just boiled linseed oil with a bit of coloring and a thickener added...eventually "Tru-oil" became a copyrighted name for their line of various wood finishes for gunstocks...this creates much confusion when picking out one of their "Tru-oil" finishes to use...since some of these finishes are NOT the original formula, but are instead a semi-gloss type of wipe-on gunstock finish...Klipsch mixed its OWN concoction, depending on which wood it was they were oiling...but the base was still boiled linseed oil...and in re-oiling the factory oil finish it is boiled linseed oil you need to be using to get the same appearance as the speakers came from the factory with.

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HDBR,

I am probably going to redo my Belles. I know that you don't think much of stripping wood, but what about the 3M Safe Stripper? Would this be the best one to try on Oak Veneer?

Also after I get the Wood stripped. Will the Boiled Linseed Oil darken the wood at all? - Or asked another way what type of finish was used on the Clear Oak finished Belles?

Thanks

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