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Amp suggestions for RF7 IIIs


skypig

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I have a new pair of RF7 III’s. 
I am super impressed with these speakers. 
 

I’m running a 12?yo NAD 375BEE (150w/ch)

I have some custom powered Subs. 
Sounds good, in my large listening room (Concrete industrial shed, very high roof- No neighbours)

 

The NAD Is suffering some internal corrosion and has been successfully repaired. For now. 
I remember, that when the NAD replaced my ancient Sansui (AU-G77??) I didn’t think it was an upgrade. Maybe slightly the other way :( (The Sansui died of the same thing the NAD is suffering from - living near the beach)

 

I’ll need a new amp before too long. I listen to rock/blues at loud volume. And enjoy the stereo every day. If I could hear the difference, and it sounded better to me, I’d be prepared to pay a bit more for an amp. 
 

The dealer Is recommending Exposure 5010 pre amp and 2x200w Mono blocks. 
An excellent option no doubt, but at A$14500 it seems way over the top. The NAD was A$2000 12 years ago. 

 

There are some interesting class D mono blocks made in Australia at a much more reasonable price. But I know little about this style. 
https://marchaudio.com/product/p421-mono-block-power-amplifier/?v=6cc98ba2045f

 

Comments? Suggestions?
 

 

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I don't think I would spend more on amp than speakers. There should be many Amps at a few K that would be more than sufficient. Personally I like vintage but I have had Parasound  Rotel Emotiva and the like with great sound,plenty power. At over 5k, pre/amp, the 7lll is the weak link. All imo...

 

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Some good advice. 
I agree re spending more on Amp than speakers. Not usually sensible. 
 

I can try the Class D mono blocks at my place, with my speakers, with the only cost shipping if I return them. So that’s tempting. 

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8 hours ago, skypig said:

 
I agree re spending more on Amp than speakers. Not usually sensible. 

 

    You get what you pay for  .....in  Australia Yamaha A-S series start at less than 500$  -

 

  A-S 3000   ,  and yes ,  it's a copper chassis +  Discrete +  Brass, spike with a guard base  +  Internal Speaker Wires are PC- Triple C (Φ2.7mm) + Brass Screw and Gilding OFC Terminal + High-quality PPS Film Capacitors for Audio  .

 

 

3B3E4C70E9DE42238F86E5663A7B5DD9_12075_394b755f2adb85c693ad4e49efb9057a.jpg?impolicy=resize&imwid=735&imhei=735?imbypass=on

 

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On 7/8/2023 at 5:15 PM, skypig said:

I have a new pair of RF7 III’s. 
I am super impressed with these speakers. 
 

I’m running a 12?yo NAD 375BEE (150w/ch)

I have some custom powered Subs. 
Sounds good, in my large listening room (Concrete industrial shed, very high roof- No neighbours)

 

The NAD Is suffering some internal corrosion and has been successfully repaired. For now. 
I remember, that when the NAD replaced my ancient Sansui (AU-G77??) I didn’t think it was an upgrade. Maybe slightly the other way :( (The Sansui died of the same thing the NAD is suffering from - living near the beach)

 

I’ll need a new amp before too long. I listen to rock/blues at loud volume. And enjoy the stereo every day. If I could hear the difference, and it sounded better to me, I’d be prepared to pay a bit more for an amp. 
 

The dealer Is recommending Exposure 5010 pre amp and 2x200w Mono blocks. 
An excellent option no doubt, but at A$14500 it seems way over the top. The NAD was A$2000 12 years ago. 

 

There are some interesting class D mono blocks made in Australia at a much more reasonable price. But I know little about this style. 
https://marchaudio.com/product/p421-mono-block-power-amplifier/?v=6cc98ba2045f

 

Comments? Suggestions?
 

 

You see there´re many ways to achieve your goal to find a perfect matching amp for the RF 7 III´s . One solution can be a SS Yummi like @OO1 proposed, but it shouldn´t be the top model , you can use a transisitor preamp connected with two class D monos , I´ll do the same from time to time , or I use a SS Pre and connect two mono tube amps on him , or I use a Tubepre with a class A SS Stereo power stage , and so on. There isn´t any limit !

 

Which one will the best ? That´s your individual decision and depends on your individual listening demands . So choose a trustful hifi dealer in your hometown and lend some gear there , check it out at home and choose the best in view to quality and price , not depending on any branch , there´re enough branches available in the world market.

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5 minutes ago, OO1 said:

there is no need to be a Yamaha freelancer to know how high quality  the series  A-S   3000-3100-3200-2200-2100-2000-1200-1100-1000  really are , 

  simply put  ,   the  best analog  amplifiers on the planet , but not , the most expensive   .

I have enjoyed my "bottom of the barrel" A-S1000 for several years and am still amazed how quiet, punchy, neutral, this integrated amp is.  I could only imagine what the upper tier 2100, 2200, 3100, 3200, with their discrete circuitry would sound like with my Klipsch speakers.

 

Bill

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9 hours ago, the real Duke Spinner said:

It's an Amplifier 🙄

Supposedly s Straight Wire with Gain

I’m leaning towards some class D mono blocks and a Topping pre90 (for volume control and an rca input for my turntable. 
 

Based on the above theory. 
 

Of course, I’m not sure how “warm”, “un-fatiguing” and “musical” it will be. 
 

They offer a money back guarantee. Do the obvious thing to do, is try it in my room, with my speakers and ears.

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On 7/9/2023 at 1:30 AM, OO1 said:

Rotel Michi  series ,  Yamaha A-S  series 

The Michi looks good. Except I’m paying for a phono stage and DAC I don’t need. (Have them separately)

 

I need an on/off switch, a volume knob and a source selector. Also great sound and plenty of head room. 

 

The very experienced repair guy I use, promised to never speak to me again if buy a Yamaha. He really hates them, sound and repair wise. (40 years in the industry) I’m sure other people’s experience varies:) On two wheels, I’m a Yamaha guy. I suspect he thinks the same of class D stuff as well…

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7 hours ago, skypig said:

The very experienced repair guy I use, promised to never speak to me again if buy a Yamaha  

  Yamaha  , Hegel , Rotel  recent  analog amps are all built  the same way internally .

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You should definitely give the Luxman 505/550 integrateds a serious look as well which are a couple grand cheaper than something like a Yamaha 3200 and are just as good if not better. The McIntosh and Accuphase "entry" level integrateds are also worthy of consideration.

 

For Class D I wouldn't sleep on the TEAC AP-701B power amp which is much cheaper than other options, very well built with HQ parts. TEAC and its sister brands like Esoteric, TASCAM, Onkyo and Integra are now owned by the Klispch parent company FWIW. You'd need a preamp for it though.

 

I'm not a fan of Class D for heritage but the Reference and RP speakers are a different story. Jeff Rowland amps would be a very good pairing for an RF7.

 

Such as dual Rowland 125s as mono blocks in bridge mode if you wanna do mono blocks. Those will have plenty of power to excite the dual 10s on the RF7s which like a lot of current despite the high efficiency rating of the speaker. IMHO the RC-64 and RF7s are sensitivity overrated by around 5-6dB so think of them as 90/91dB speakers. High current/power, well measuring Class D tonally and amp pairing wise would be a great match.

 

Lastly I'd give the Bryston B135 Cubed consideration as well.

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17 hours ago, sixspeed said:

You should definitely give the Luxman 505/550 integrateds a serious look as well which are a couple grand cheaper than something like a Yamaha 3200 and are just as good if not better. The McIntosh and Accuphase "entry" level integrateds are also worthy of consideration.

 

For Class D I wouldn't sleep on the TEAC AP-701B power amp which is much cheaper than other options, very well built with HQ parts. TEAC and its sister brands like Esoteric, TASCAM, Onkyo and Integra are now owned by the Klispch parent company FWIW. You'd need a preamp for it though.

 

I'm not a fan of Class D for heritage but the Reference and RP speakers are a different story. Jeff Rowland amps would be a very good pairing for an RF7.

 

Such as dual Rowland 125s as mono blocks in bridge mode if you wanna do mono blocks. Those will have plenty of power to excite the dual 10s on the RF7s which like a lot of current despite the high efficiency rating of the speaker. IMHO the RC-64 and RF7s are sensitivity overrated by around 5-6dB so think of them as 90/91dB speakers. High current/power, well measuring Class D tonally and amp pairing wise would be a great match.

 

Lastly I'd give the Bryston B135 Cubed consideration as well.


Thanks for your considered response, and so much information. I’ll look into your suggestions. 
Very interesting re the efficiency rating of the speakers. The current amp is rated at 150w/channel into 8 ohms, and it seems adequate. At best. 
 

from What HiFi

“The C375BEE packs in plenty of power thanks to a terrifyingly large transformer, with NAD claiming 500 Watts per channel into 2 ohms or a more realistic 150 Watts of continuous power per channel into 4 or 8 ohms. 
…..

With all that muscle under the lid, this lack of drive is surprising – as is the fact that, when asked to really belt out a tune at loud volume, the amp has a tendency to harden up at the top end and sound cluttered with busier tracks. 

This NAD is perfectly listenable, but for £1000 you should expect a little more.“

 

I hope I can find something that I think sounds better, for a sensible cost. 

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No problem. But yeah, 150W is honestly more than plenty to adequately drive RF-7s.

 

But there are other figures and specs besides pure power output that also play a role as well and this is how you can have multiple amps with a similar output rating perform very differently. 

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I listened to a Hegel H390 yesterday. (The H190 is more in my price range)

 

It sounded great, but with completely different speakers/room/music it was impossible to compare with what I have. 
 

I also got the NAD back from the repair shop. 
I should be happy with the NAD. It sounds great to my ears. I just wonder if another would sound even better. And the NAD is living on borrowed time corrosion wise. 
 

One problem I have, is most of the suitable amps (power/price/sound wise) come with a phono stage and a DAC built in. So I figure I’m paying $A1-2k for stuff I don’t want. 
 

I’ve found a Rotel Michi X3 with $A1500 off (which kind of gives me the unwanted Phono stage and DAC for free). If I had to buy a new amp today, it would be that one. (I’m heard) But I’ll probably change my mind tomorrow. 
 

Typing this listening to my delightful Rf7IIIs 😊

Edited by skypig
Speaaling
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