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$1000 amps


Deang

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Mike,

Yes you unhook the wire going to pin 4 and run a 100 ohm resistor from pin 3 to 4 . You just tape off the wire so as to not have it short out ! Easy mod this is with EL-34, KT-88s or 6550 and other with the same pin out . Tubes with different pin outs would be on different set of pins. Like a 6BQ5/7189 type its pin 9 you unhook the wire and jumper 100 ohm from pin 7 . If the amp has anything else hooked to this pin you have to keep the wire hooked to that wire to allow that portion of the amp to get power. The Mark 3 has one that goes to the driver board so this has to be done also. After your done recheck the bias of your amp.

Pretty easy to try triode output.

Craig

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oops right about the 100k...let me find a picture, I have one somewhere, of how the switch is installed. but yes, one on each monoblock to switch between triode strappedn and normal pentode (only switching with power off of course)...to make sure no one switched with the power on I installed it inside on the underside of the amp. I will post a lic this weekend. tony

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Colin's post led me right into Styx music. "Too much time on my hands..." I would save $500 and buy myself a Basie which is what I am going to do. Frankly, guys, I have looked at dozens of offerings in the last week and they all look like mierda. Christ, why can't anyone build a decent looking tube amp that sounds great? Is the utilitarian look in or what? Give me something with a Cherry fascia and make the ugly sheet metal disappear. And, oh my God, is there anything uglier than ANY of the offerings from Bottlehead. They certainly sound good (according to all reviews with certain criteria) but they are God awful ugly. I can understand wanting to find some economies of scale but at least derive those economies from something a blind person wouldn't call unsightly.

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So you tie a 100 ohm resistor between the plate and screen and unhook the UL screen winding?

What about the phase compensation cap and feedback resistor?

The comp cap goes to the screen winding, the feedback resistor goes to the 16 ohm tap. Both come from the cathode of 7199.

Do you just eliminate the feedback circuit?

I always thought about triode connecting a SE 6BQ5 circuit, but the damn things barely have enough power as it is.

Crash,

Just get a kit, use the circuit provided, and make your own chassis to your liking.

I agree, some of the stuff is pretty ugly.

Me? I've gotten to the point that if it sounds good, it looks good.

Everyone has there own taste in the looks of gear.

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Dean you have already decided so just buy the darn things and get it over with !!

Crash,

You can play with the feedback circuit resistor all you want raise it lower it or elinate it if you want. I played with them once and never heard a large difference to my ears. But like anything its all subjective. There is nothing you need to mess with on the 7199 !! What amps are you going to do this too ??

Almost forgot your first question yes your right on the money !!

Craig

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Mark III's would be a great option !!! KT-88's !!!!!!!!!!! I could walk you through the rebuild and Mods !! I know you could do it !!! $500 for a set on Ebay !!! $500 at the most for Tubes and all parts !!! Full triode front end and output with 30 watts plus of triode output !!! You would love them ~

Craig

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I think to even consider this offering shows how far you have gone off. You have wandered from the shallow waters into the deep end. A terrible mistake, and a huge step back from where you are now. You are more the loon than I previously thought.

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Deang,

My experience is with CREEK Audio, hooked to SB-3 Klipsch's. I Love Creek for the simple construction, and wonderful power and sound. PRICE was my consideration. For 695.00 I got an Integrated Amp that is so powerful a 45w per channel, that I can't turn it up past 2 clicks.

A company that makes excellent equipment using creeks componets, is Cambridge Audio. It can be purchased even cheaper than Creek and works just as well. Good luck1.gif

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