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Why didn't Klipsch make a RSW-18?


cdsang

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Times do change.

I'm now using the Epik Conquest subwoofer. An 18" driver in a big ported box. It's the best subwoofer that I've had, so far. It come close, but it can't keep up with Klipschorns.

Now there is the Tuba HT horn loated sub. The 36" wide one should be worth a try.

There is also Danley Labs DTS-10. A tapped horn. This one has my attention.

36" will not fit through most doors, i made the 24" version and it far exceeds anything i ever heard, even in the high end stores.

Not only loudness but quality of sound is excellent.

More than enough to easily skip your CD player, break windows, rattle rain gutters or just make you feel nauseous, but that was not what i was going for.

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Now there is the Tuba HT horn loated sub. The 36" wide one should be worth a try.

There is also Danley Labs DTS-10. A tapped horn. This one has my attention.

Yeah, those are definately contenders for the best sub for Klipschorns. I like the idea of using horns for a perfect match.

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The THT definitely works well with klipsch =]

I made a pair of 32" wide THT's, since the door opening to my garage is 33" =]

130+db of crystal clear bass at my listening position is great. Unfortunately, it took a while to stop all the rattles. I had to take out the springs in my windows it was so bad. Luckily for me it wasn't a big deal since I built custom acoustic panels to fit the windows already ;)

However, the baseboard heaters in the rest of the house go nuts when listening at decent levels. Also, things kind of just walk themselves off of shelves =]

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  • 1 month later...

Hmm this Tuba sounds interesting. May I ask about how much money you have invested in this? Im guessing the building plans allow for different sizes etc. I have a basement HT with concrete walls and floor. It is VERY hard to get low bass in this room, even with corner treatments. I currently have the Velodyn HGS18. You would think thats enough.. But its not. I wonder if this Tuba would HELP to overcome some of my room's inadequacies.

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Yeah i wouldnt. My velo is actually sitting lifeless right now. The amp finally gave out,,,,, again... And i cringe at spending more money on a super expensive sub.

I actually dont use my basement HT near as much as I thought i would. It doesnt sound as good as my den system.. Probably because Im just not happy with bass extension.

Oh well, I may try this out one day.

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Hey clspruiell,

So you're Sub has Died again huh? What's exactly Broken/Dead, is the actual SubWoofer/Speaker Frozen Solid (Won't Move) meaning the Sub's toast or will the sub Move if you push the surround up a d down?

If your able to do the latter then, is the Amp Toast?

Will the Amp power on, have you check the fuse... Im sure you have Im just Curious.

By Chance what do you know about Electronics? Im assuming not enough to fix it yourself...

If your not sure if the Sub still plays you can do a quick Test, take the Sub out grab a 9V Battery and touch the leads of the speaker with the contacts of the 9V battery. If it makes a Pop Sound and the speaker Extrudes from the basket or goes inward, your Sub works Fine. If it doesn't move at all that means your sub is fried. Which means you can have it repaired by a local company. We have one who repairs speakers of all brands. They replace voice coils and surrounds and cones and it's pretty cheap to have it done.

Now if it's the amp, I might be able to help you with that... Take sone up and close pictures of the amp... And anything that looks like it's broke... If a Capacitor looks like it's puffed up or anything at the base of one get pictures.

If anything has dark brown or black around it or the circiut board has that take a good pic.

I might be able to help you replace the parts that need to be fixed. Just need a few pics.

Good luck

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Hey, yeah its the amp.. Ive had velodyne replace it one time already. it started by allowing the woofer to bottom out really bad during loud/low parts of movies (i think the servo died). my understanding is that the servo on it should never allowit to POP on a bottom-out.. is that right?

anyway it has completely stopped working. i will do some more research and see if it can pinpoint where the problem is. Im just in a mode of getting rid of speakers and not wanting to spend the money to repair this sub yet.

Cornwalls anyone?

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A Tuba can be built for about US$300, or so I hear. I have about C$340 in mine so far (driver and 4 5x5' sheets of baltic birch mostly). Then you need an amp. You can go all out with a Beringher EP2000 for $250-$300, but that is overkill at 1300W bridged into 4 ohms. You can get a $100 plate amp. I might just use a spare channel off an unsed HK receiver since I doubt I'll exceed 50W. Then you can spend $100 to $150 on EQ to even out the response down to 16 Hz.

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I don't think 50 watts will be enough to do anything. It doesn't matter how quite or loud you listen to it. Even at normal Vol. 50w doesn't cut it for a Sub.

When watching Your fav. Show with Music within it or an exciting scene at normal vol. If you want the sub to play the Low Fq. you'll need A Lot more Power. If you want a Sub to play down in the Very Low Hz. range such as 20's or 30's you'll need min. 1000 watts but probably more like 2k.

The lower you go the more power is needed.

The Beringher is Just as you stated, Cheap. If it was me looking for a way to power a sub... I wouldn't look there. I would go to my old friend google and start searching for DIY Audiophile Sub amps and learn how to make one. You can get almost everything needed to build one for free. All Microchip, capacitors,resistor companies will provide you with free samples of there product lines. Most compaies like National Semiconducter has a few IC's that have quite a bit of power in them. Such as the LM4780. 120 watts mono or 60x2 stereo. And this amp build takes a total of 9 parts. Look up GainClone. For instructions on how to make it.

Really it's simple. Anyone who can read is able to make it. And really that's not even totaly true. Let me rephrase it.

Anyone who has access to an APPLE Mac computer. Alex can read it to you! Lol

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I don't think 50 watts will be enough to do anything. It doesn't matter how quite or loud you listen to it. Even at normal Vol. 50w doesn't cut it for a Sub.

You probably have no experience with the Tuba HT then. What you are saying is similar to laughing at someone for using a few Watts to drive Klipschorns. What what I hear, 50 W into a Tuba will shake the house.

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I don't think 50 watts will be enough to do anything. It doesn't matter how quite or loud you listen to it. Even at normal Vol. 50w doesn't cut it for a Sub. When watching Your fav. Show with Music within it or an exciting scene at normal vol. If you want the sub to play the Low Fq. you'll need A Lot more Power. If you want a Sub to play down in the Very Low Hz. range such as 20's or 30's you'll need min. 1000 watts but probably more like 2k. The lower you go the more power is needed.

You might want to do a little research on horn loaded subs. As a matter of fact, IB's require very little wattage to reach down into the teens also.

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You are correct. I haven't had a chance to hear Tuba HT sub and I would love to hear one... Infact I've tries to find BluePrints to build my own but I can't seem to locate any.

I want to make a small 6" or 8" tuba if that's at all possible...

As for your Statement about Klipsch, Wow! All I have to say is, ohh I'm really Sorry... Ugh I really didn't want to be put in that catagory. I'm actually sitting in a room full of Klipsch and watching eragon when I read your reply.

Well in any other case 50w wouldn't quite cut it for the really low Hz.

So I guess I'll have to wait till someone post some DIY kits or measurments to make my own. I know there's a place I can order a kit and put it together myself but I can't seem to make myself do that when Ive got all the woodshop tools to make it myself.

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