Boiled Linseed oil

[tillmbil]

Has anyone uesd this to restore the finish on their speakers? There are no onstructions on the can I am using so I was looking for somew advice.

How to apply

Rub on or not

Etc

[LarryC]

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On 7/4/2004 8:31:27 AM tillmbil wrote:

Has anyone uesd this to restore the finish on their speakers? There are no onstructions on the can I am using so I was looking for somew advice.

How to apply

Rub on or not

Etc

----------------

Bill, hopefully Andy or some other real expert will come on here, but these are the rules I've seen so far:

1. Do NOT use on a lacquer surface -- only on oil surfaces. I didn't go near my laquer K-horns with it!

2. Apply, not in a thin coat, let stand (?how long? -- I dunno). I believe you should rub it in.

3. Wipe off.

4. BLO IS DANGEROUS!! Do NOT wad up the towels or rags, because they'll burst into flame (spontaneous comubstion). I've seen advice to spread them out and let them air dry outside.

I've only used BLO on a walnut oil table, and it was the best thing by far that I've ever used on it. Far better than wax, Old English, Formby's lemon oil, etc. etc. Oh BTW, I rubbed.

I still think you should wait until Andy or one of the Greg(g)s or some other expert chimes in.

Larry

[Q-Man]

The first coat is best done when it's mixed with turpentine. Use 2 parts boiled linseed oil and 1 part turpentine.

This thinner mix will help clean the veneer and let it soak into the veneer faster. You use can even apply this first coat with 0000 steel wool and rags to remove scratches. If you use the steel wool wipe off the mixture right away to remove the steel wool fragments and dust left behind. I rub in the second full strength with a rag and offen use just my bare hands for this coat. Let it sit and soak in for a while and whip it all off or it will get sticky and gummy. Re-coat everytime the wood begings to lose it's luster. At first you may have to apply it once a month. Soon it should be once a year.

[D-MAN]

This is a beautiful, traditional finish for woods of all types. Usually many coats are applied after each dries. After drying, a soft rag is used to "polish" the finish (the famous "hand-rubbed" finish). Several coats will fill wood pores and can even be built up to a full gloss in the modern sense. For speakers 2 or 3 coats should suffice.

Take a look at the Danish oil finishes available, they do the same protective thing, aren't as thick and aren't as flamable. They do not tend to fill pores as readily, though, due to the lessened viscosity.

However, like Larry said... For boiled linseed oil I've had it combust the rags before. DO NOT LEAVE RAGS with linseed oil on them in a WAD and certainly not in your house or garage!! There are 3 ways to deal with this.

1) place in rag bucket with a lid used for greasy rags

2) soak in a bucket of warm water then lay out flat to dry.

3) burn it immediately after use.

DM

[Deang]

Q-man described the proper use. Make sure you thin it, or you will have a nightmare on your hands.

Make sure to follow Larry's safety advice -- the stuff is volatile as hell.

[D-MAN]

I would NOT thin boiled linseed oil... If you don't want to fill the wood pores, USE A DIFFERENT OIL. The whole point of BLO is that it builds up a multi-layered surface that can be polished. Probably not what you want for speakers with large flat surfaces due to the amount of work required, but that is up to you...

Apply a straight coat and then wipe off the excess. Let dry. Polish as desired. Repeat as many times as necessary.

The more, the better.

If you want thinner oil or wish to apply fewer times, use tung oil or Danish. These do not build up a surface, they are more of a protectant rather than a finish per se.

Most speakers are NOT finished to the point of having a furniture quality finish. They are simply oiled and rubbed (probably once). And most are not boiled linseed oil for that reason.

I would not put turpentine on any of my wood under any circumstances!

DM

[Deang]

Wierd info, as none of it lines up with the things I studied before working with wood finishing.

I do believe Mineral Spirits is the preferred thinner for Boiled Linseed Oil, but I don't see why Turpentine wouldn't work. The downside with Turpentine is that is can be absorbed through the skin, so you HAVE to wear gloves.

If one is going to use the stuff as a "wipe on" product, they sure as hell better thin it first, because it starts to dry as soon as it comes in contact with the air. It should only be used straight with paint, or with a brush on outside type work. Also, using a thinner causes the oil to penetrate the wood better, and aids in bonding.

Danish Oil is actually a "wipe on" varnish. All of the wipe on type products are "thinned" with some type of solvent to begin with. So, you either buy something already "thinned", or you buy something you have to thin yourself.

[wrench_peddler]

Mineral Spirits is what the directions on my can of Boiled Linseed Oil said to use.

[Lucky Leeroy]

Here is an additional topic with pics:

Search: Linseed to lights out

[Deang]

Beautiful, but talk about doing it the hard way!

[D-MAN]

Well, Okay. Maybe I did come off a little harsh. My appologies.

Turpentine is the preferred thinner for linseed oil.

Actually centuries of proof of that. But why does BLO need to be thinned or it causes problems? I would recommend NOT thinning it, but that's just my recommendation, it is not to say that someone like Q-man is wrong. There are many ways to skin a cat.

Turpentine is used to thin BLO (the medium) in traditional oil painting, so it is certainly a proven thing to do. And oil paintings last far longer than we do, that's for sure. Turp is a oleoresin distilate extracted from (mostly) conifer tree pitch, so it goes with wood just fine, but it tends to break down (which is why it is an effective thinner, but not an effective finish). To add it to a finish is simply weakening the finish. You can use it to remove a finish, but should not use it to apply a finish.

If you find that boiled linseed oil is too thick for your purpose, then use another type of oil. Don't thin it. That's my recommendation.

I never have thinned it. Works great, but the thing about spontaneous combustion is absolutely true. A rag with BLO on it is a science experiment (or worse) just waiting to happen...

DM

[Hofy]

So, flat black WalMart spray point wont cut it?

I have used linseed oil on a pair of walnut finished Bose speakers. atleast they looked good.

All kidding aside, the best thing about oil is if you mess up or are not happy with the finish, a little steel wool and you start over fresh again.

[Piranha]

If memory serves me correctly I recall that Andy recommended I not thin BLO before applying it to my Cornwalls. He also mentioned that Klipsch uses straight BLO during the manufacturing of their cabinets.

My CW's came out great. Next up the LaScala's if I don't have them professionally refinished.

I also applied straight BLO to my Welbourne chassis's that were used to make my monos.

[Deang]

So, the stuff can actually go on full strength without it getting tacky on you? I just figured if it was being wiped on, a little thinner would really save the arm muscles. I mean, you get it on nice and smooth, and the thinner evaporates off while your rubbing off the excess.

[dodger]

Hello:

Years ago a very goo friend in the audio repair, now production, area gave me the advice to cut the BLO with Mineral spirits. On my C-20 it's great.

On virgin or to add a stain, I've used Watco Danish Oil. I also used it when I used to refinish guitars if a wood "stain" was preferred to paint.

Follow ALL of the safety notes as described above. Also find out what has been used previously.

I used the Danish Oil as it stood up to sweat, getting drinks knocked on the guitars and a host of things.

I finished a Deacon's Bench in 1976 with Watco Danish Oil. Having to take pills or getting thirsty during the night, I would bring a glass of water and set it on the bench - no covering. I still have it, there are no water marks on it.

Whichever method you choose, read all directions, work in an area with ventilation and follow the safety guidelines mentioned.

Good Luck.

dodger

[Marvel]

D-Man,

I think the idea of thinning the first coat is that it allows it to pemetrate the wood a bit more on the first coat, so you don't end up with mostly a surface coat. It shoudl withstand abrasions more that way. Same reason you would thin polyurethane on the first coat.

Helps the wood fibers to bond together a bit more beneath the surface and be more durable.

Marvel

[Piranha]

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On 7/7/2004 8:26:18 PM AK-4 wrote:

So, the stuff can actually go on full strength without it getting tacky on you? I just figured if it was being wiped on, a little thinner would really save the arm muscles. I mean, you get it on nice and smooth, and the thinner evaporates off while your rubbing off the excess.

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Dean,

The thinner idea sure sounds logical to me. I will try your suggestion next time around. Although I must say that I really had very little problem applying it straight. I used some elbow grease after each application to prevent the tacky buildup you mention. I also sanded them with 600 grit between each of the six coats I applied. Came out really nice.

I just did what HDBRbuilder recommended.

[Rivendell61]

Hi,

Re boiled linseed, turpentine, etc:

I used to use the Sutherland Wells Tung Oil stuff (Garrett Wade....).

Now I use pure Linseed Oil. As I understand it the turpentine thinner really only became common in mid 20th century--and for no 'functional' reason (i.e., as a thinner). Thinned oil ala 'Danish' oil will give fine finishes but not the best--and at a cost: financial (it costs more per sq. ft.) and in toxicity, esp if it also has (metal) 'driers', and lower quality.

An excellent-if little known--product is made by 'Tried & True Wood Finish' http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com

this ia a polymerized linseed oil...and nothing else. Based on old 1920's or 30's? finish.

It is safe for use on anything--even food items. You can use it in the house without any dangerous vapor (it smells kind of sweet and nice...).

Still gotta toss the used rags carefully (soak in water and bag)to avoid combustion.

Wipe on--let sit 5 min--wipe off. 'Thinning is not recommemded.'

Couple coats...

They also do a 'linseed and beeswax' finish that I use as a final coat.

This stuff gives a really beautiful finish and is easier (except for a bit of buffing) than anything else--and totally non-toxic (you can eat the stuff--well, sort of).

One more thing to remember: oil finish cures from LIGHT. Don't leave it in a dark basement to dry. Temp/humidity/etc are not critical: light is.

Mark

[Q-Man]

Looks like Tillmbil lost interest.

Don't be afraid to thin the first coat with turpentine. I didn't say to thin it on every coat, but then some boiled lindseed oils are thicher then others.

Most of you are working on old neglected speakers or you wouldn't be asking how to oil them. Your first goal should be to clean them, and a thinner oil will aid in this. That's one reason I said to rub in the first coat with steel wool. I first wash down the cabinets with stright mineral spirits. After they dry then I give them a light sanding.

Some of you guys are making way too much of this. Just rub on the darn oil and figure it out. You will learn what works and what doesn't work. Your not going to hurt anything.

Maybe you should just do like we old Italians do? We use Olive Oil for everything .

[colterphoto1]

Thanks for the BLO tips. My old Cornwalls are pretty beat up. Got them from a guy whose HOUSE BURNED DOWN around them as they were stored in a closet at the time. $300 to me and I only had to recone the woofers. But they smelled real bad for a couple of years.

Question: If I plan on doing several modifications to my Cornwalls, including applying new veneer, should I just leave the walnut dry for now or can I spruce them up with BLO or one of the alternatives? I'm afraid of getting the surface too gooey with oil that the new veneer may not adhere properly.

Thanks for advice.