RichardP Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 I purchased Cornwall's a little while back, which have black smoked glass tops that were installed by an owner prior to the one I purchased from. One corner of the glass was broken in previous shipping, and I want to either take off both tops, or depending on the difficulty I encounter, replace only the broken one. The tops look OK aesthetically, but the 1"x2" broken area is obvious. The tops appear to be held on by some type of 2-sided adhesive strips placed around the perimeter of the cabinet top. I don't want to simply start prying them up, as that would likely damage the wood. These cabinets appear to be plywood that someone finished nicely in dark cherry. I can imagine that gently heating the glass with an iron might soften up the adhesive, but I haven't tried it yet. I wouldn't know what temperature to use, and I don't know how the wood plys would react to heat. Can anyone help with some suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 I would use a hairdryer or a heat gun on med temp....around the perimeter of the glass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Very carefully slide a thin utility knife between the glass and the wood, taking care that the blade does not dig into the wood. You may also slide it along the glass, tipping slightly toward the glass so that it will not damage the wood. Using this method, you can safely remove the glass tops. Use a very sharp utility knife, as it will make your job a lot easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardP Posted January 5, 2005 Author Share Posted January 5, 2005 Thanks for the quick replies. Hallwalker, I will definitely try the hairdryer before a clothes iron. Michael, I think you are suggesting that the utility knife cuts through the adhesive; unfortunately, the adhesive strips are set back as much as 1" from the edge of the speaker top, thus a regular razor blade knife may not be long enough. I do think that if I can softened up the adhesive, a thin blade of any type might cut through it. Also, assuming that I get the glass off, how would I remove adhesive residue from the speaker top? From a small gap in the broken glass, it looks like the tops also got the cherry finish before glass was installed, so I hope that all this will not require me to refinish the tops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 With a long 4" blade at maximum extension, you should be able to do it. Removing the adhesive, good old elbow grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ignorance_is_not_bliss Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 umm, yeah, what they said... though if you decide to use a clothes iron, drape a thin layer of terrycloth over the glass, and using a steam setting, perhaps the adhesive will come loose through careful motions with the iron. if none of these work, go buy some goof off, and apply it to the edges of the adhesive... between that and a razor blade, it'll come free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 Find the resonate frequency of the glass and play that tone through the speakers as loud as you can until the glash shatters To get the glue off, use some De-Solve It. I get glue on my woodfloor all the time when working on various projects and my parents hate having glue on their nice woodfloor so they make me scrub away with this stuff. It doesn't harm the wood at all and it gets the glue off real nice and easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJkizak Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 Make sure you are wearing safety glasses when you pry them things off. JJK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Reed Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 If you can't find De-Solve It, try Goo-B-Gone. I think you can get it at Home Depot. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodger Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 If you don't feel comfortable using a razor knife, there are some very thin pry bars. They would be near the wall paper tool area. Also as mentioned above, wear safety glasses. If the glass does not like the heat it may shatter. Mineral spirits can also be used to remove excess/remaining adhesive. Work slowly, patience will pay off. dodger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 Grab a box of Craft Sticks (look like tongue depressors). As you work around the edge and lift up, you can place them under the edge to keep glass from settling back down on the adhesive. The glass should flex enough to allow you to do this. And DO wear eye protection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtaylor Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 What they said, safety glasses! Good tip marvel! Randy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebes Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 Don't even think of using Goofoff, Desolve it etc. until you've tried it in an area where it won't show if it lifts the stain. I am a painting contractor and I can tell you from experience that stuff can damage finishes that are not pollyed and will damage water-based polly finishes. When you've got the glass off use a small amount of WD 40 or mineral spirits to remove the residual glue. Test in inconspicous area first. Also you may want to try a freezer pack and that may make the tape brittle enough to pulloff gently using a long utility knife or a five way tool. The way I always screw up difficult little projects like this is getting frustrated. If you start running into problems just walk away from it for awhile. If I followed my own advice I'd have less busted stuff around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 I have quite a bit of experience removing glued on emblems and moldings off of vehicles, that were mounted with 3m double sided adhesive. This is the most annoying stuff to remove, period. I doubt that what was used was more than regular double sided carpet tape. I have used an adhesive remover wheel, that is made of a rubber compound, that does not harm automotive paint, but I could not recommend it on a speaker cabinet without trying it myself first. Second backup is good old elbow grease with a little help from a heat gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 "The way I always screw up difficult little projects like this is getting frustrated. If you start running into problems just walk away from it for awhile. If I followed my own advice I'd have less busted stuff around." Thebes, That is sage advice!! Any luck yet Richard? Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 "The way I always screw up difficult little projects like this is getting frustrated. If you start running into problems just walk away from it for awhile. If I followed my own advice I'd have less busted stuff around." Agreed- this sounds like a several-nighter. Don't get too anxiousl with the heat gun. I used one to soften putty around storm windows. Too much heat and the glass would shatter. If your speaker tops are tempered you can use quite a bit of heat, if not, you have to be VERY careful! I don't know how you can tell which is which, both can have polished edges, tempered will not flex as much. Just heat and scrape a small area at a time. Maybe put a protective metal strip between speaker top and glass, aim stream of hot air in there to soften adhesive without getting glass overheated, then cut glass away from foam with long knife. GO SLOWLY, take lots of breaks. Michael- thinks the glass tops are great idea, I have them on my office furniture and they are usually just set on the wood with small clear plastic nickel-shaped discs between them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardP Posted January 6, 2005 Author Share Posted January 6, 2005 Wow, I never thought I would get this much great advice. Thanks to all!!! Zapper, I may try this weekend, when there's a lot of time and light. Thebes, you seem to know too much about me...I will be sure to remind myself to take it slow. I wouldn't care if I broke the glass, but I sure don't want to screw up the finish. Various tool ideas are great, too. Thanks again. Oh..and yes, yes, yes, I will wear eye protection! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ignorance_is_not_bliss Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 .......and if al else fails, patience wears thin, the glass is still there, don't forget "Old Faithful: a 22 oz. roofing hammer." Get a good swing too, otherwise you might hurt your wrist and only crack the glass, not shatter it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.