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X over question from techno-nubee


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Many of you will know that I bought a set of Heresy1 speakers from the thread in 2ch and that the xover was all jacked up. I will post the schematic that was given me by Orolin and photos of what was done to the xovers in the speakers. I am only showing one as they are both the same. I was just wondering if any of you expert electronic types could spot what the heck this guy was doing??? The photos show everything I know about what was done. If we can't figure it out, no big deal but I think this was the root of the bass being gone from the H1s.

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Well the caps are stock, but he changed the coils but that is not necessarily a good thing if the values were not identical to the originals. I also think that there was only supposed to be a single coil in that network, not two.

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Well, I just spent $93.22 with Partsexpress to upgrade the caps to Audiocap ppt thetas and the inductors to erse super q's. Add gold binding posts and shipping and there you have it, nearly $50 per speaker to upgrade the and return the xovers to better than but stock design. I hope it is worth it, I could have done this a lot cheeper with lessor quality parts from my local electronic store. Like $20 total for each speaker!

If this works out, I may buy the parts and re-nue and upgrade the xovers in all my speakers, that ought to be a few more $$$6.gif3.gif2.gif

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You should have just ordered some caps to replace the old cans -- and left the rest alone. Whoever did the work knew what they were doing, and obviously didn't change the caps because they liked the fact that they were Paper in Oil. The second .11mH coil with the paralleled 3uF cap is of course the P-trap, which runs in series with the squawker. It forms a narrow bandpass that kills a resonant peak at 9kHz found in many of the older K-55-V's -- you should put it back in the circuit. The big copper foil air cores for the LF section are very nice (and pricey). Overkill if anything, but I certainly wouldn't have wasted money replacing them.

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LOL, well that's true. I guess he mostly knew what he was doing.

I've been trying out some white caps lately, don't think I can tell any difference from the yellow caps. I hate it what that happens.

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You're a tough competitor Bob. :)

Randy, Solen now sells film and foils in limited values. However, some of the availablle values are right where I need them: 1.5uF, 2uF, 2.2uF, 3.3uF, and 3.9uF. Since I get OEM pricing from Solen, I can get these for not much more than my OEM pricing on the Auricaps. The Auricaps, Kimbers, and Sonicaps are the best of the metallized types, but if I can get a film and foil that I like for the same price, then that's the direction I'll go. When they showed up, I was delighted to feel the same heft/feel as the Thetas. I measured six of the 2.2's I ordered, and they were all 2.19. If only Solen did that well with their metallized version.

tincaps.jpg

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.010µF, 1200Vdc, Tol. ±3%

.022µF to 1.0µF, 630Vdc, Tol. ±3%

1.5µF & 2.0µF, 400Vdc, Tol. ±3%

2.2µF, 250Vdc, Tol. ±3%

2.7µF, 3.3µF & 3.9µF, 150Vdc, Tol. ±3%

4.7µF, 100Vdc, Tol. ±3%

Yes Al, I've compared them very closely. If I lay them right next to each other, one is definitely white, and the other one is definitely yellow -- no question about it. :) C'mon, don't we know by now that these things all sound the same! A week of cap comparisons with my Heresy's just left me with a big headache. There were differences, but be darned if I can describe them. The important thing I discovered was that everything I used sounded good, and the minute shifts in signature weren't anything to get worked up over. When I was positive I heard differences, it was only at the higher SPLs (upper 90's). The only cap that didn't go strident on me was the PPT Theta.

Incidently, the listening tests were done using J. Albright's Heresy mod with the 21uF high pass to the squawker, 3.0uF to the tweeter, 10 ohm swamping resistor on the autoformer, and using taps 1 and 2. The caps were the film and foil Thetas, and the following metallized types: Auricaps, Solens, Kimbers, Daytons, and the GE motor runs -- which I could only use on the tweeter. I ended up doing some mixing and matching too, and I'm pretty sure I never did hear a difference regardless of what I used for the primary input cap.

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