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Big news!!!!! 60th Anniv Khorn


3dzapper

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One of the things I want to do at the get together in Hope, is ask very carefully how do I do this with my current K horns.. It is my understanding you do not need to have them snug in the corners any more with enclosed backs..

I can't say how, but I believe this to be true. Call it a huge hunch too.

So lets see if upgrade kits or people with the specs could do this to their own K Horns. I, for one, want to do this!

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If the standard Klipschorn has a closed back option, I want one.

Actually, I'd want two...

I reckon Klipsch engineers must have revised some aspects of the Klipschorn's response (crossovers?) to accomodate the slightly different low frequency response as a result of the closed back.

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You're too quick for me, Paul. I pushed the post button before I finished my post. [;)]

I just got a price for the new Klipschorns landed in Australia. With the stronger Australian dollar, the price has now come down to something very affordable. I've already got a buyer for my new La Scalas if I want to sell. But the condition is that I keep them in the raw birch finish. This buyer is fastidious and wants them strictly original.

Decisions, decisions...

That'll mean I need to keep my system 2 channel rather than multi...

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You still need the corners to finish the horn. As shown in the pictures, without a wall on either side to finish the bass horn, response starts dropping at 250Hz, and at 100Hz it drops like a rock. Don't take my word for it -- call Klipsch. There is an advantage however to completely sealing the tailboard, but you wouldn't believe the reason if I told you, so I'll just keep my mouth shut and see if Klipsch decides to tell you.

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There is an advantage however to completely sealing the tailboard, but you wouldn't believe the reason if I told you, so I'll just keep my mouth shut and see if Klipsch decides to tell you.

Come on, Dean, let's have it. You know Klipsch won't tell us anything good.

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I think the engineers are simply addressing the need to add a bit of convenience to the Khorn's original design. I don't know about anyone else (actually, I do) but I've spent a LOT of time and energy maneuvering them around and tweaking. Certainly more than any other speaker I've used.

Khorns are not very room-friendly nor plug-n'-play. I realized pretty quickly that the Khorn could sound glorious but there was a good possibly that it could sound pretty bad without some thought as to placement or any adjustments. It would take some work but if I couldn't set it up properly, I only had myself to blame.

That's one of the charms but a good deal of folks do not have the initiative or patience and would be very quick to dismiss the Khorn (that's right - there are people who would spend $12K and expect their new speakers to sound perfect right out of the box!). Maybe Klipsch wants to market a Khorn that will sound good without too much extra effort.

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You still need the corners to finish the horn. As shown in the pictures, without a wall on either side to finish the bass horn, response starts dropping at 250Hz, and at 100Hz it drops like a rock. Don't take my word for it -- call Klipsch. There is an advantage however to completely sealing the tailboard, but you wouldn't believe the reason if I told you, so I'll just keep my mouth shut and see if Klipsch decides to tell you.

To keep the spiders out?

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"For the first time ever, the rear of the speaker has received a cosmetic facelift. Solid panels now enclose the rear high frequency and low frequency cabinets to add a more elegant appearance, eliminate any corner and response issues and allow for toe in or out. "

In other words, additions have been made that:

Are not visible when in use

Add unneccesary weight

Do not add any audible value to a properly set up system

Inflate the cost of the system without improving the performance or appearance

What's so elegant about the back side of a speaker that must be placed in a corner to work? Why would you be worried about toe on a bass cabinet? Isn't a positionable mid-hi section what you need to adjust toe? How can adding panels eliminate response issues created by an unknown corner? That's engineering double talk for "The marketing people made me do it."

Proof that Paul is dead. Koo koo ka choo.

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I just looked over the press release and the phrase that caught my eye was:

"Sold in pairs, these limited-edition speakers are only available in Europe."

Am I reading a different release - I can't believe no-one else spotted it.

http://www.klipsch.com/newscenter/press.aspx?cid=1176

Now if that price of $11,000 odd applies here it is VERY interesting because that is lower that the price for the standard item.

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http://www.kaleidos.it/used_sound/gold_sound/images/cornerhorn.jpg

Maybe a great time to post this. All I can say is I have a hunch that this will work if not so snug anymore. OK, a Solid hunch... The K horns in solid corners will always help the problem of placement. (Of solid fantastic lows that Paul designed them to give you.) The problem is, that I bet 90% of the people, Dean, do not have a propper seal or understand just how important this is..

That said.. I have heard a pair like this shown in the 60th anniversary model picture, they were NOT in the corners all snug as a bug and they sounded INCREDIBLE.. BTW, I am in FL now as we speak... so you know. The K horns sound not just kinda good, but earth shattering, fantastic, wonderful, good. And all I saw was the enclosed backs.. I kept smiling more and more knowing well geeze I can do this myself.. To my own.

And that's my point. And your right, this is not a fix to place em 3 feet out in a room facing you... but I am serious. I just wish you could of heard what I heard in the pair I did. It would of made you smile and go OMG, I am sure of it.. So you either build a wall.. or help out what you have and let your wall extend it like you pointed out... but get rid of the seal problem. Either way, you fix what is the problem and finally realize what you really have attached to that home depot 12 guage , or 10k wire..will sing!

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So what I'm thinking is the enclosed back eliminates the need to seal the Klipschorns into a corner, BUT doesn't necessarily eliminate the need to have the Klipschorns backed into the corner. As was pointed out earlier, the Klipscorn still needs corner reinforcement to extend the horn. What I like about this idea, is that toe in and toe out is now possible without compromising the bass response or having to unbolt the top section.

But what I want to know is... WHAT'S GOING ON?!!! Is this stage 2 of the Klipschorn update or not?

All I can get from the Klipsch rep here is that the latest model is now available but no details are provided about what's in the box. I hate surprises. [:@]

Just kidding. [<:o)]

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"Maybe a great time to post this [false corner plans]. All I can say is I have a hunch that this will work if not so snug anymore. OK, a Solid hunch... The K horns in solid corners will always help the problem of placement. (Of solid fantastic lows that Paul designed them to give you.) The problem is, that I bet 90% of the people, Dean, do not have a proper seal or understand just how important this is.."

My experience with false corners was pretty straight-forward. When I first hooked up the Khorns, they were out in the room and the bass was pretty weak - nothing like the bottom end of the B&W 801's I was thinking of replacing. I quickly moved out the 801s and pushed the Khorns tightly in the corner. The result was much improved - tighter, more prominent bass. Unfortunately, my room isn't properly proportioned for Khorns so the image was lost.

I moved the Khorns around a bit but the result compromised both the image and bottom end. A friend who's had most of the Klipsch lineup and several Khorns suggested that I build corners out of bricks or cinderblocks but I searched this forum, found the false corner drawings and decided that MDF and birch plywood with DynaMat in between would do the trick. The result was better bass and I could move the speakers to optimize the image.

That was fine for a few years but I eventually got a bug and replaced the top-end (thanks guys! - you know who you are). The new horn no longer sealed the bass bin so I closed the top and bottom of the false corners, enclosing the bins. I was not expecting the result - much tighter, deeper bass. Things improved even more when I added braces for rigidity.

If I had it to do again with the original drivers, I'd seal the bottom of the false corners and stiffen things up with braces.

Just my experience.

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"What I like about this idea, is that toe in and toe out is now possible without compromising the bass response or having to unbolt the top section."

What continues to amaze me is that no matter how many times it's said, it just doesn't seem to sink in. One more time: Even sealed, if you pull them out from their corners you lose the end of the horns. With that, you get massive roll off beginning at about 100Hz. Now, it may sound good, but it's not right, and you're losing a great deal of information at the bottom.

The seal at the tailboard: I agree that many think they have "a good seal", but a seal that allows ANY air to escape is less than ideal. Now, to find the answer to what I hinted at earlier, you need to quit focusing just on the tailboard seal.

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I posted the origional "Dope from Hope" link a few pots back on the ideal situation..

What I am saying is yes, the side walls DO need to still be part of the bass bin extension too. What I am also saying is this, I heard a pair and they were like 4-6 inches out from the wall (still in the corners).. but I am telling you, just unbelieveable bass.. Clean, solid.. How I have heard it a few times in my life, it was just amazing!!!

So no air at all escapes, and it extends out from the wall as you have them in your corners too.

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