Big news!!!!! 60th Anniv Khorn

[edwinr]

"What I like about this idea, is that toe in and toe out is now possible without compromising the bass response or having to unbolt the top section."

What continues to amaze me is that no matter how many times it's said, it just doesn't seem to sink in. One more time: Even sealed, if you pull them out from their corners you lose the end of the horns. With that, you get massive roll off beginning at about 100Hz. Now, it may sound good, but it's not right, and you're losing a great deal of information at the bottom.

The seal at the tailboard: I agree that many think they have "a good seal", but a seal that allows ANY air to escape is less than ideal. Now, to find the answer to what I hinted at earlier, you need to quit focusing just on the tailboard seal.

Okay, so you're saying that sealing the tailboard is not done so that speaker positioning in the corner is eliminated or is less essential or toe in or out is facilitated. You still need the Klipschorns to be snug in their corners so the end of the horns isn't compromised. I've got that bit.

But what other benefits does a closed in back offer?

Hmmmm... I'm thinking. [^o)]

Edit: It's gotta have something to do with how a sealed tailboard interacts with the wall so that horn extension is properly implemented?

[Bill Cain]

The seal at the tailboard: I agree that many think they have "a good seal", but a seal that allows ANY air to escape is less than ideal. Now, to find the answer to what I hinted at earlier, you need to quit focusing just on the tailboard seal.

But what other benefits does a closed in back offer?

Hmmmm... I'm thinking. [^o)]

It's gotta have something to do with how a sealed tailboard interacts with the wall so that horn extension is properly implemented?

Perhaps Klipsch is attempting to remove variations, to the best of their ability, by removing the corner as part of the speaker? The further away from the driver that you can maintain horn integrity, the more you can assure design fulfillment. If you make it all the way to the walls, I would think it would couple better with them, than if you were relying on the corner as an interface with the cabinet. You've removed the last variable; the corner.....

Of course, you still need walls......

Are we getting close? []

[edwinr]

Hey! I got it!

It's to stop people like Dean getting into the back and pulling the crossovers to bits! [Y]

[3dzapper]

[]

Dean, We're waiting![:@]

[Bill Cain]

[]

Dean, We're waiting![:@]

Yes we are......... []

[Bill Cain]

[]

Dean, We're waiting![:@]

Inquiring minds want to know. [8-|]

[SilverSport]

...to be sure...Bill

[SilverSport]

...needed to close the Top Hat to have a place to hold the PWK Plaque included with each specially marked 60th special???...Bill

[SilverSport]

...c'mon Dean...holding on to the edge...starting to slip...don't know if I can make it but..."Must warn others...!"[] []...Bill

[IndyKlipschFan]

OK, I am not saying you can put em out in the room.. But seriously.. Semi close to the wall.. ( the ones I heard were 4-6 inches away) and OMG. I am not "blowing you smoke" DeanG or others.. It was just that dramatic!

Now that said, you want em out in your room, your going to have to extend it IMO like the link I put of constructing a false wall. That is still true.. Kinda like the Hartsfield JBL model.

I wanna talk to Trey and others more when I get home on this. But it looks like a pretty simple modification to me, with SUPERIOR results "if" properly sealed. (not to the wall but the cabinet.) For those in doubt, your not gonna believe it.. (maybe some of you never will, LOL) but I heard it.. and trust me, that bottom end just comes to life!

[Deang]

Bill Cain said: "...The further away from the driver that you can maintain horn integrity, the more you can assure design fulfillment. If you make it all the way to the walls, I would think it would couple better with them..."

There it is. So, how many here have perfectly square walls and floors, and the perfect corners that come with them? O.K., so you got yer nifty rubber strips, pipe insulation, or whatever you're using along the outside edges of the tailboard -- and you push the beasts into their corners. So, what stops progress back into the corner? The tailboard seated into the corner? No, you're done when the top rear corner of the top hat stops you. If you're lucky -- the tailboard is properly seated. Don't count on it. If you're feeling adventurous, try this: Pull one of your Klipschorns out, remove the top hat, and then push the Klipschorn back into the corner. Now get an extra set of hands and try to put your top hat back on. Good luck.

Even with a good seal, it won't be a perfect seal. Air is pounding on the tailboard, and trust me on this, regardless of what you're using back there -- air/sound is escaping.

Now we come to the other problem I alluded to, and that's the side walls that meet up with the sides of the Klipschorn. Again, if your floors are not warped, or on a slab, and everything is square -- it meets up nice and flush. Even still, air, and the sound it's carrying is escaping. A little here, and little there, and it begins to add up -- and in the end performance suffers. IOW's, it certainly isn't working like the mathematical model says it should.

If you take any horn, drill a small hole or two into the throat, and cut slits into two of its seams -- it ain't going to work the same as it did.

Some of you have one side of your horn lined with carpet.

[Deang]

I'm not doubting you at all Indy, I hear it everyday. The slam factor and control goes way up when they're buttoned up nice and tight. But you gotta have the wings to get solid response down to 40Hz.

[Marvel]

That's why I have LaScalas. []

[Deang]

What do you get when you ram a Klipschorn and a LaScala into each other?

[Marvel]

I'll bite -- What?

say, will you sell me a couple of inductors?

[Marvel]

See how I killed that off. Probably a Jubilee.

about those inductors....

[Deang]

Yes, very good -- a Jubilee.

I responded to you about the inductors in another thread where you asked about them, but can't remember where that was. At any rate, I wanted you to shoot me an email with your shipping address. Problem is, I got an order for a set of networks, and when I pulled out my 20's I found out I was down to my last pair. There were three pair in the box, and the other two pair were .39's. I put another order in with Solen on Wednesday, so when the order shows up I'll ship you a pair.

[Marvel]

I'll send you an email with the snail mail address. Send me the price withyour address and I'll go ahead and send a check off to you.

I had actually sent an email, but it was through the forums. Perhaps it didn't work.

Send me one at babrownATalltelDOTnet

And I found your mailing address, so I don't need it.

Bruce

[Bill Cain]

Bill Cain said: "...The further away from the driver that you can maintain horn integrity, the more you can assure design fulfillment. If you make it all the way to the walls, I would think it would couple better with them..."

There it is. So, how many here have perfectly square walls and floors, and the perfect corners that come with them? O.K., so you got yer nifty rubber strips, pipe insulation, or whatever you're using along the outside edges of the tailboard -- and you push the beasts into their corners. So, what stops progress back into the corner? The tailboard seated into the corner? No, you're done when the top rear corner of the top hat stops you. If you're lucky -- the tailboard is properly seated. Don't count on it. If you're feeling adventurous, try this: Pull one of your Klipschorns out, remove the top hat, and then push the Klipschorn back into the corner. Now get an extra set of hands and try to put your top hat back on. Good luck.

Even with a good seal, it won't be a perfect seal. Air is pounding on the tailboard, and trust me on this, regardless of what you're using back there -- air/sound is escaping.

Now we come to the other problem I alluded to, and that's the side walls that meet up with the sides of the Klipschorn. Again, if your floors are not warped, or on a slab, and everything is square -- it meets up nice and flush. Even still, air, and the sound it's carrying is escaping. A little here, and little there, and it begins to add up -- and in the end performance suffers. IOW's, it certainly isn't working like the mathematical model says it should.

If you take any horn, drill a small hole or two into the throat, and cut slits into two of its seams -- it ain't going to work the same as it did.

Some of you have one side of your horn lined with carpet.

Thanks for the answer w/ clarification. I have always loved the performance of my LSI's in commercial applications, but have never stepped up to K-Horns for home use. I have stayed with with my old Dahlquists, because I didn't have the appropriate setting for K-Horns.

That may change as I will be house-hunting in the near future.

I will now take into account the special needs of K-Horns. Whether or not I ever get them will be of secondary importance. But I will be better prepared, due to this forum.

And now, for a question:

I'm wondering if folks will start to upgrade their K-Horns to emulate the 60th Anniversary model. Would Klipsch encourage such activity by providing more info? Or might it be a simple and intuitive addition?

[IndyKlipschFan]

I'm wondering if folks will start to upgrade their K-Horns to emulate the 60th Anniversary model. Would Klipsch encourage such activity by providing more info? Or might it be a simple and intuitive addition?

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I, for one, hope so..