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Couple of basic LaScala Questions


meagain

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Holy Batcrap Batman! Did a bunch of people just jump on my server to download stuff!

Doc. Feels funny callin you doc...why is that anyway?

You know, I bought a bunch of Junk to RTA stuff already...my wife would kill me if I ordered more exotic test stuff. man...I need a lab like Bob. Couldn't justify it though, I don't make any money doing this stuff...just waste money. For fun only.

Well, not an expert on time delay. Would have to read up on it. Just to let you know, I tested the reflex cabs with just the woofer running....same results. Not sure if that helps you.

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..... And don't forget Sly and the Family Stone. "Dance to the Music." What fantastic funk! You can't just SIT and listen to that one. You gotta get up and shake it! [:D]

While we are at it, let's "Celebrate" with Kool and the Gang!

On one end of my house upstairs is a 28 x 18 living/dining room. The builders underhung the joists from double 2 X10s spanning from the load carrying wall in the kitchen to the outside wall. In a rancher, it looks like an easier option than Jeff's method with a second floor to consider.

I'm waiting for an OK from the bride to open up two of the upstairs bedrooms into a large master. (Been waiting now for 17 years:-( What do empty nesters need with 5 bedrooms?

Rick

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Well, not an expert on time delay. Would

have to read up on it. Just to let you know, I tested the reflex

cabs with just the woofer running....same results. Not sure if

that helps you.

Well that just further verifies that what you percieve as a bass

problem is actually a problem with the midrange...or rather a lack of

midrange at the correct moment in time. You can think of these

frequencies as cues for our ears to pay attention to the lower

frequencies (that we don't otherwise hear because our ears don't work

well that low).

Another problem you run into is the different dispersion pattern

between the woofer and squaker (the woofer is starting to beam at those

frequencies where the squaker has a very large dispersion). To verify

the severity of this issue you could just listen to the speakers

outside where the off-axis response won't make a difference (provided

you're sitting on-axis when listening).

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jwcullison - Your links don't work for me. I found the double bass bin thread on google, but not the other.

Bob - That looks beautiful. Thanks for bumping the thread. I'm looking forward to seeing more pics.

3dzap - Did you get my PM on returning the x-over loaners? If not, hubby had to run out of town again but will be home this weekend to do the switch and I can ship them Monday. I just can't haul these khorns out myself with the thick carpet without dinging them.

My ranch is basically 28' wide on the short end. The wall I want removed is: 1) a painted brick fireplace wall 2) on the other side the room is 2 steps down 3) I have a trussed roof. The room that's 2 steps down (the sunken room) was an old screened porch that I think the previous owners (a gaggle of sons in the family) enclosed during a keg party. Stud finders don't even work. The whole area has to be demo'd and rebuilt. It's quite a horrifying situation. I learned about the room being a screen porch from the 85+ year old mom who told me she raised some turkeys in it and one was born a cyclops. [:o] Serious! No, we're not in the boonies here. Not even close. LOL You should see what they did to the electrical system!

We put off buying stereo gear till we fixed all this but we just couldn't stand it anymore. I'm basically going to find things as they come & make do till we can do it up right. Hopeing to put the khorns in a proper room.

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Rick, how do you underhang the joists and not have your beam in the floor above? Or is it in the attic?

Meagain, I guess the challenge of that wall is too much for now. On the "bettering" the LaScala issue, did you see my LaCornwalls idea? I think those would be great!

BTW: On the different levels you mentioned for your rooms, I have the same thing here. Did you notice in the background (where the 2nd beam was) that there were all new joists in there? That area used to be a porch that the previous owners enclosed. The problem was the floor of the balcony did not align with the floor inside the rest of the house. So...... we tore it all out and raised the balcony floor by installing new joists and decking. Now, it's all even and more like an original part of the house. No step down into a "different area" - it's all just part of the same room, now.

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Meagain, 28-feet is the short dimension? Oooooh. That'd take an I-Beam before I felt safe. You can do that with an I-Beam, but you'd need a hell of a hoist to lift it - or maybe 10 fat guys. [:D] What kind of load is there on top? A second story? Attic?

What dimension is the room you're using now? 28 x ?

What dimension is the porch? 28 x? (If 28 is the small dimension, that must be one hell of a big porch.)

Got a buddy with a wrecker and a hoist mounted on the back?

And then, you step down? Onto slab or deck? If it's deck, no big deal. Sounds like your house must have a pier and beam (or block and beam) foundation.

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Meagain, 28-feet is the short dimension? Oooooh. That'd take an I-Beam before I felt safe. You can do that with an I-Beam, but you'd need a hell of a hoist to lift it - or maybe 10 fat guys. [:D] What kind of load is there on top? A second story? Attic?

What dimension is the room you're using now? 28 x ?

What dimension is the porch? 28 x? (If 28 is the small dimension, that must be one hell of a big porch.)

Got a buddy with a wrecker and a hoist mounted on the back?

And then, you step down? Onto slab or deck? If it's deck, no big deal. Sounds like your house must have a pier and beam (or block and beam) foundation.

Yes, a mega beam is needed. It's a ranch so there's just roof above. Ridiculously low pitch. And we were told due to the trusses - they hold the walls together or something nutty and everything's like a house of cards. The roof on the sunken room on the other side of the fireplace wall is angled down. I don't even think they used real drywall. Probably styrofoam that's been plastered over a bit. Heavy snows are worrisome. The rest of the house is plaster walls with a lannon stone exterior and pretty solid.

The room I'm using now for TV/khorns isn't the sunken room. It's the other side and is 13' wide by very long (flows into tiny dining type area which is empty and kitchen).

Porch/sunken room is about 13 x 16-18'? Bad slab. Bonus points that if it wasn't carpeted. A ball placed on the floor would go flying. The rest of the house has a real foundation and full basement with almost 8' finished ceilings.

JPM - We locked into Dr. Hsu's stuff several months ago. Your critique about your "3" is very important. Might wait on it for a bit though.

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Not to belabor the point, but it sounds like 13' is the common wall width between the 2 rooms you want to combine. If that's true, I also will note that since you have the main room as 13' x long, your joists/trusses would typically run the shorter span (typically). If this logic holds up, the wall between the 2 rooms is not load-bearing. Maybe you're lucky.

I know when we moved in a year ago, I had no idea what walls were load-bearing and assumed some were when they weren't. Even our foundation repair guy (which I should have done myself as well) was telling me a wall next to the stairs was carrying a load. It in fact was not, and we took it out this last weekend.

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Meaghan, the wall you want to remove was originally an outside wall? That is a horse of another color.

Rick

Not nece-celery! The same principles should apply. If the joists run parallel to the exterior wall, you could take it out. It's done all the time by people who add on rooms. I know I could do it on my place with impunity. You'd need to account for the direction the rafters in the roof run as well. That's all.

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The more I read it, the more it is seen that to demo that wall is probably nothing. You're talking a 13' span, which you could easily accomplish with 2 2x10's and no steel in the middle. You don't have a second story up there with people jumping around and heavy furniture. Heck, you could even go 2x8 or 2x6 for that matter, but 2x10's would be my choice - or even 2x12's because wood is cheap enough, and it'll be concealed in the attic.

Trusses should be a non-issue. I bet they run parallel to the wall to be removed, so you'll never even touch them.

That leaves the way the roof of the old porch was tied-in. You describe it as a shed-roof. A shed roof starts high on the end connected to the house and pitches downward to the outside wall of the porch. Nothing fancy there. If that's what you have, the part of the porch roof that ties into the house is probably on a gable. You won't touch it either.

I'd bet that wall is non-load-bearing and could be removed with no structural consequence at all - meaning you don't even need a beam - just rip-and-go. That is, unless you show me that I've misunderstood what you wrote.

I never would have known this a year ago, but ripping a whole house down to its skeleton has taught me alot.

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