Flason Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 I'm in the running for the stupidest human award. I need a little advice. So I have this pair of '78 Cornwalls that I have been refinishing. I had them looking good when I decide to finish them with BLO. I was on the 3rd coat of medium thickness, 1st 2 coats where very light, and about a week into the project when I had a minor emergency and had to take my son to the doctor. (He's alright) I left the oil on the speakers and haden't been back to them in 2 days. Needless to say the oil dried and now the tops have hardened linseed on them. How do I remove the dried oil without screwing up the finish. I've been rubbing the heck out of it, but it doesn't look much better. The sides fared a lot better then the tops. Was thinking about some mineral spirits to loosen up the dried oil but I thought it might damage the finish. Help!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Well the good news is that your son is alright. I am not sure about your situation, when the oil had been on for 2 days, but usually one would just apply more oil and then rub/buff it dry. Hoefully the fresh coat of oil will act as solvent for the mess that is on there. Good luck & let is know the ultimate solution, -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Flason, I'd go with a 50/50 mix of BLO and mineral spirits and a little elbow grease to soften the old BLO then wipe it off. You should be all right it takes several days for the BLO to set completely. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flason Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 Cool. I will try another coat 50\50 with spirits. Definately don't want to remove the finish again and start from scratch. Thanks for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschguy Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 You are actually in good shape for a great finish. Mix 30% turpentine with 70% boiled linseed oil (adding a little stain to the mixture also helps give a deep, beautiful finish). Work the mixture into the wood by using 600 grit wet/dry paper on a sanding block, doing one side at a time following the grain. Follow the 600 grit with a very fine scotchbrite pad soaked in the mixture (no sanding block, just free hand). Buff very well with a soft towel. Let it dry 24h. The 600 grit will remove the excess finish, the high spots, and will create a slurry that will work its way into the grain for a very nice finish. The Scotchbrite pad makes the appearance of the finish very even looking. The good bath towel you use to buff the veneer will land you in the dog house. I just went over my Cornwalls this way and they look and smell like they just left the factory. For my job I used Danish oil mixed with turpentine and stain, but I have used the forementioned mixture numerous times with excellent results. Test this method on the bottom of the cabinet to see how you like it - I'll bet you will. Happy finishing, Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piranha Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 CBR's or CWO's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kriton Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 Hey, question - what is the natural color of boiled linseed oil? I have a pair of CW2's that were birch raw, but since the grain was coming up, I sanded them up lightly, put some clear oil stain on them and waxed them up - the oil did not darken them much at all...if I decide to go over them with BLO, what can I expect with any color change? Thanks, K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 It is basically clear at the thickness of finish that you will be using on speakers. It adds a warm-ish tone with time. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryC Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 These are walnut or something oil, right (e.g., WO)? And not lacquer (WL)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardP Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 You are actually in good shape for a great finish. Mix 30% turpentine with 70% boiled linseed oil (adding a little stain to the mixture also helps give a deep, beautiful finish). Work the mixture into the wood by using 600 grit wet/dry paper on a sanding block, doing one side at a time following the grain. Follow the 600 grit with a very fine scotchbrite pad soaked in the mixture (no sanding block, just free hand). Buff very well with a soft towel. Let it dry 24h. The 600 grit will remove the excess finish, the high spots, and will create a slurry that will work its way into the grain for a very nice finish. The Scotchbrite pad makes the appearance of the finish very even looking. The good bath towel you use to buff the veneer will land you in the dog house. I just went over my Cornwalls this way and they look and smell like they just left the factory. For my job I used Danish oil mixed with turpentine and stain, but I have used the forementioned mixture numerous times with excellent results. Test this method on the bottom of the cabinet to see how you like it - I'll bet you will. Happy finishing, Andy Andy: Can you tell me exactly what stain you added to the BLO? I have some sun-lightened areas on my WO Forte tops that could use darkening a little. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flason Posted March 3, 2006 Author Share Posted March 3, 2006 The walnut oil Cornwall tops are starting to shape up. I used spirits instead of turp because I didn't want to make yet another trip to Ace Hardware. I needed to remove the excess from both tops. The 1st top I did like Klipschguy said except I used 320 wet\dry versus the 600. Even with 320, the build up was very tough to take off. I went as far as to using an orbital sander which actually was the smartest thing I could have done...No...actually the smartest thing I could have done was to wipe the darn things off prior to walking away, but I digress. Cornwall #1 took a couple of hours to finish and since my ADD took a hold of me, I decided to strip the 2nd CW, re-sand, steel wool, and stain again. That took a lot less time but the results were also outstanding...to a point. I used the same ingredients on both speakers but CW 2 looks more "red" than CW 1. I dont think anyone would notice from 12-15' apart but when the speakers are right next to each other #2 is more red. I need to work on the sides a little then either get some tweeter diaphrams from Bob Crites or just pick-up a pair of his tweeters. Then I'll either find some grills to buy or make some myself. I must say there is a certain satisfaction to buying relatively cheap and making your speakers, your speakers. But it would sure be nice to be able to plop down $3K on a new pair of Cornwall III's and it not effect your income. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschguy Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 Richard, Any oil based stain. I use the minwax in the yellow can. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meagain Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Andy - what color stain did you ad? Any pictures on either of these sets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meagain Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Andy - when using the Danish oil (assumably Watco?), did you use the same proportion of turp as with the blo mix? Or did you change it a bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkBK Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Andy - when using the Danish oil (assumably Watco?), did you use the same proportion of turp as with the blo mix? Or did you change it a bit? BLO yellow with age - not necessarily a bad thing - just something to plan for when using the very traditional woodworking finish. I prefer Hope's Tongue Oil over BLO myself - for a gorgeous hand rubbed finish. I would REALLY go easy on the sandpaper idea unless you are experienced is sanding veneer. Remember it is 1/28" or less thick and VERY easy to burn through. 0000 steel wool (protect them drivers first!) is much safer or a scotch brite pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschguy Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 With the Watco Danish Oil, I use it thinner because it is thinner by definition. Both mixtures are approximate mixtures: mostly oil, some turpentine, a little stain added to taste (not literally). Meagin, if you want to keep it real, real simple and get good results, Use the Watco Danish Oil (with a little stain and turpentine), get the finest grade Scotchbrite pad you can find (very fine, I guess), and buff your veneer one side at a time really well, let sit 10 minutes, then buff with a good soft towel. With the pad and oil: go with the grain, use medium pressure at first, followed light, quick polishing strokes. Buff dry. You can eliminate the 600 grit step and still get great results, the veneer just won't be quite as velvety smooth. BTW, 600 grit is a very, very fine sandpaper - it would be quite difficult to sand through your veneer with it. The stuff is used sand automotive paint in its final stages for a high shine. The Scotchbrite and oil shouln't take much more time than lemon oil and a rag and it will do a much better job. The BLO/turpentine is the Klipsch original and I like it. The Watco Danish oil is really nice though - it penetrates the veneer for a hard smooth protective satin finish. It is not sticky at all like BLO can be. I've seen some lame results with BLO, but never with Danish oil. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meagain Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Well - I hit them with Lemon oil for a quickie. But when I do them right (as stated above), I was thinking of using Watco clear/natural with a hint of Watco cherry? Just a whisper to tweak the color. Some pre-tested ratio. Do you that better than Watco & stain? I figured they should at least mix well. Andy is there any rhyme or reason with adding the turp to the Watco? Or do you just 'feel' it? Make it easier to work with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Meagain, You need to follow Andy's advice very carefully. There is a difference between re-finishing and "applying the annual coat of oil to the cabinets". If you are re-finishing the surface must be prepped. This is certainly true if there is a stain in the mixture. As I said in one of the other threads, the rules change if you are applying this mixture over a non-oil finish (e.g. lacquer), or if the surface is dirty or not uniform, or if furniture polish with silicone has been used. Good luck, -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meagain Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Yes, I've printed this thread. When things settle down for me, I'll be doing a full big-deal refinish job on them. I do think I'll have to sand a bit as I can feel grain, and I'm OK with that. I've done a few pieces of furniture before so I know any sanding done is critical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschguy Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 The turpentine helps cut the crud that has gotten into the old veneer. In my experience it also helps give an even finish - I like it. Plus it smells good. When you refinish/refurbish the only prep you need to do is is pour out some danish oil mixture, get the veneer wet with the oil, then sand the oil into the veneer with a flat sanding block and 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper (the sandpaper is black, btw). Immediately polish with a very fine Scotchbrite pad. Then buff with your best bath towel. Run you fingers over the veneer to touch up any rough spots you may have missed. It will not take much sanding to get the veneer very smooth. You're done. Turn on the music. Enjoy the aroma. Hint: remove your grill cloths if possible so you don't any get oil on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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