BEC Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 Kriton, Yes, that is a Heresy I crossover. I had thought you said the 85s were Heresy II. It would have 2 2uF and one 33 uF. Is that crossover mounted on a wooden board or is it on the round cup? Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 Yes, a 68 uF polypropylene cap is pretty big. But I could certainly find a way to make one fit somehow. The 33 uF cap on the E2 in the late model Heresys is a snap. There are other modern capacitors that take up less room than polypropylene if size is an issue. Of course, if PWK was still alive, I am sure he would say "It doesn't make a dime's worth of difference!" And frankly, using something other than an electrolytic to replace that particular capacitor might not make an audible difference, at least not until the electrolytic degraded sufficiently . But electrolytics are definitely time limited components. I cannot count how many electronic devices I have worked on where the culprit was an electrolytic. If I am going through a network replacing other components, I will replace any electrolytics I can where feasible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kriton Posted March 9, 2006 Author Share Posted March 9, 2006 Kriton, Yes, that is a Heresy I crossover. I had thought you said the 85s were Heresy II. It would have 2 2uF and one 33 uF. Is that crossover mounted on a wooden board or is it on the round cup? Bob BOB, I am sorry man, I have caps and crossovers for two pairs of these things that I want to refresh, so I am bouncing back and forth, yes on the H2's the crossover is on the cap...so putting that big capacitor on there is probably not going to work? The H1's look very simple, should be easy to swap out the three caps? I am just trying to find which caps to use and at what values...if I try to use say Thetas and they don;t hae the exact value that I need, what then? Aslo, do I need to match the voltages of the old caps, or the voltages of all the new caps, or does voltage matter at all? Thnaks for listening to the newb, I appreciate it... K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 The voltage rating should be at least 100 volts, but all the crossover caps you can find will be rated higher than that. On the Type E2 crossover board, you should probably have room to use any caps you want to use. On the Heresy II crossover you have to look closely at the physical size of the components. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 Peter, My bad. The HIIs with the round input cap were those in transition. I hadn't thought that the backs were screw on for those. Are the woofers mounted on the back of the motorboard then, or still front mounted like the later HIIs (like mine)? Bruce No woories Bruce. Sorry I was busy all day installing BEC tweeters and listening to them. The woofers are mounted from the front. Soon I'll be buying a Nikon D50 and will finally be able to post decent pictures. Can't wait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kriton Posted March 27, 2006 Author Share Posted March 27, 2006 Wow, There were several posts to this thread that have mysteriously disappeared? Anyway, I ahve a new question, and one of my last hopefully - How do you dtermine the polarity on a capacitor if it is not clearly marked? I have some Solen caps here, and there is not indication of positive or negative sides? I know I have seen some caps that specifically specify by coloring the leads which is positive and which is negative, or at least the direction the the capacitor should be plced in relations to the inputs from the amp, but these don;t have nay indicators on them at all? Can I solder them in in any fashion? Thanks! K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 The caps are non-polarized -- it makes no difference which way you orient them. Solens? Why go through all the trouble of doing this and not spring for the good stuff. After you get sick of the grain, go back and put in some Kimbers. 2uF 250vdc Solen, 13mm x 25mm2uF 250vdc Dayton, 13.5mm x 31mm2uF 200vdc, Kimber, 17.8mm x 29.7mm All film is not created equally. You think your RF-7's would sound the way they do if I would have loaded them up with Solens? What you are getting ready to put in your Heresys is about as good as what you paid me to yank out of your RF-7's!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kriton Posted March 27, 2006 Author Share Posted March 27, 2006 Well damn, I thought I had asked this a while back and got no takers.. So Dean, give me a run down of what you would suggest...I had been looking at Auricaps, Sonicaps, Kimbers, Hovland's, Solens and Daytons... Tell mw what you think, and why man! I just need to know! If you think the Solen's crap, tell me! I had talked to madman (in a good way) behind GR Research and he really likes the Sonicaps, and his explanation was plausible and seemed very good indeed, but I couldn't get the proper uf values, and I didn't want to string caps all over the place...any suggestions? Thanks! (This is where I start getting the value back for those crossovers - which I can never use by the way, the preggo wife is stuck in front of them most of the time these days!) K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kriton Posted March 28, 2006 Author Share Posted March 28, 2006 BUMP, Come on DEAN - Answer the question! K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 LOL:) Solen on the low pass, Auricaps or Kimbers in the high pass. AudioCap PPT Thetas if you can afford them. Stay away from Hovlands in these simple filters -- just too much of a good thing. If you have the green, the best sounding cap I've ever heard in my Type A's is the V-cap OIMP. Before anyone asks, no, they don't sound the same as the GE cans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 I know I'll get tons of opinions on this, but my LS have the AL networks in them. I want to change them, but what are good options? John Albright has some ALKs he will let me borrow, and since I do use tubes on these, the constant impedance would be a good thing. But I also don't listen at high volumes, although Josh might when I'm not at home. [] John has another design he is working on that I may try. My wallet is just a bit thinner after my trip, so the ALKs may be too rich for me. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kriton Posted April 30, 2006 Author Share Posted April 30, 2006 Here are my final "hack jobs" - the wires are a bit long, but I wanted to use the originals with as little modification as possible... E-2 network, what do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 looks good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 BOOM,BOOM,BOOM,TISH,TISH, La,La,La. Sounds good to me!!![8] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 Here are my final "hack jobs" - the wires are a bit long, but I wanted to use the originals with as little modification as possible... E-2 network, what do you think? The real question is... How do they sound?! [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kriton Posted May 3, 2006 Author Share Posted May 3, 2006 Hmm...as I think I said in this thread...I am cautiously optimistic...I think I need to live with them a bit and let them break in...I can tell you that I am hearing some serious detail that is missing in the identical unchanged speaker...but...I am getting a good amount fo ringing from the squawker - but that is a different issue. It has been interesting and somewhat fun to redo these things, but I am reserving my opinion on the crossovers for a while... K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjones5296 Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 The 33 uf cap, Iwas thinking of using a film cap in place of the electrolytic in my E2 crossovers. Thinking that the tighter tolerance might be benefical versus the wide tolerance of the original cap.bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 That electrolytic may say +/-10% or +/-20%, I can't remember -- but keep in mind that Klipsch probably either picked through them or asked the vendor to keep the tolerances closer to +/-5%. An electrolytic is fine in that position as long as it's not drying out -- considering the age of most of them by now it's probably a good idea to just change them out. You know Parts Express is probably only a 20 minute drive for you, right? http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=027-944&DID=7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kg4guy Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Will the square crossovers just pull out from the back after screws are removed or do you need to remove woofer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjones5296 Posted November 25, 2007 Share Posted November 25, 2007 Thanks, good point that Klipsch used selected caps, I did change out for new electrolytics, I should have measured them. Yes Parts Express is only a short drive away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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