Tom Adams Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 Hey jw.....if Mark1101 makes a trip to your place from Athens can I drive up from Savannah???? [] Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 5, 2006 Author Share Posted April 5, 2006 Dr.Who. Those are good points. I was planning to possibly try 5". You know with these Ports, the flare extension peices add length to the cutout piece. The shortest this setup can go is 5". Actually 6 inches but the included literature with these ports states the last inch doesn't count. Tom. Yes, you are always welcome with some advanced notice. You can test run these dbb's of mine or my Cornscalas. Unfortunantly, the TallCorns will be shipped off to my lakehouse in Alabama w/in weeks. Oh, I guess you can hear my Herescala too! jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 5, 2006 Author Share Posted April 5, 2006 Here is as short as the ports go 6" (really 5" by Precision port instructions) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 5, 2006 Author Share Posted April 5, 2006 Al and DOC and Bob and others who are checking in. Here is the 5" port done the same way from the listening position. I haven't tried the mic on the floor testing. Al, if you have suggestions on how to tune CORRECTLY with the setup I have available, please chime in. I'm not sure what you were getting at in your last post. I'm not as good with this as you. I have basically done pretty much what Doc has suggested when I started this Bass Bin stuff. He and I had the same idea in mind in that I would try long ports and shorten as I go. I also had the same idea of getting some estimates from WinISD. To port similar to a Cornwall, I would need 5" or 4" ports (dual 4" diameter) to get the same curve as estimated with the Cornwall shelf port. Having said that, the 5" port sounds like my Cornscalas and the Late Cornwalls I had. the Bass isn't as low but more punchy. I know some think the Cornwall is boomy but I have never found that to be the case (relatively). For the application I'm using these, they will play a lot of dance, rap, anf old classic rock. I know what you're thinking...what a waste especially with the expense of ESNs. They won't get any Jazz like I play at time at my house (although, I confess i listen to that other stuff with my Cornscalas and subs at times). The 5" port plot looks similar to the 7" plot although they don't sound the same with music. Bob, FYI, the woofer doesn't move as much with this 5" port length setup. (less excursion) jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 JC, seems your measurement is getting masked by room issues at 30 and 60 Hz. Try moving the mic a distance of *scratches head* 6 feet from your current measuring position? It probably won't matter which direction. The goal is to shift the room issues such that you get less interference in the 30-40Hz region. Btw, you are only measuring one speaker at a time when doing this right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 19, 2006 Author Share Posted April 19, 2006 Well, I'm a little overdue for some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 19, 2006 Author Share Posted April 19, 2006 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 19, 2006 Author Share Posted April 19, 2006 Needs a little dustin...I know. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eglivincent Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 Looks Good JC, Thanks for all the posts on your projects progression. I think you had mentioned going t work on a tall bass bin somewhere inthe near future. Is a tallscala next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 20, 2006 Author Share Posted April 20, 2006 Tallscala. That's a good one. You have good memory. I have been tinkering with the idea of a horn bass bin that is more slimline and tucks away in a corner. Dana Moore has givin me some ideas on this. I haven't made up my mind on what will be next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 20, 2006 Author Share Posted April 20, 2006 This TallCorn is coming together. It's been raining and I can't paint the bass bin yet. The top section is wired and ready to go. Remember I settled for the dual 4" diameter by 7" length ports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 20, 2006 Author Share Posted April 20, 2006 Closer view of top section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 20, 2006 Author Share Posted April 20, 2006 I want to show again how I build the grill frames. I used to do the 3/8 inch masonite but found it to be cumbersome. I also don't think it is as sturdy. I know use 1/2 by 1/2 hardwood strips. I basically cut them to 1/8 shorter than the total width and length of the inner Height and width of the cabinet. This 1/8" allows just enough room to wrap the cloth around and staple in place. The frames are joined by predrilling a 1/8" hole for screws then drill a 13/64" bit just at the surface of the hole in order to flush the screw. The screws are #4 x 3/4 inch pan heads. I then put wood glue at the joints in the corners after "framed" to hold them in place to keep from "turning" once framed. I then spray paint them flat black. You can see the glue in the corners of the picture if you look closely. You can use Gorilla glue but you will have to lightly sand off the "foamy" stuff it creates once dried. the wood glue is nice because you really only have to let is partly dry about 30 minutes before you paint. Much quicker. The staples used to place the grill cloth is a cheap non powered staple gun using 1/4" staples. These are nice as they are really cheap and you can pull them out with a pair of needle nose pliars w/o damage to anything if needed. Once made...very sturdy and no velcro is needed. They will "stuff" in the cabinet front very well and won't move until you pull them out if needed to show off the drivers. You can put as much tension on the grill cloth if wanted to prevent "buckling" of the fabric. This picture is of the bass bin frames. I placed a strip in the middle to provide more "sturdiness" because placing the fabric real tight can cause the wood strip to bend ever so slightly if the strip is long. This middle strip will go between the ports and the woofers to prevent any interference. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 JC, The speakers look great. I have a network question. Have you tried any Sonicaps yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 20, 2006 Author Share Posted April 20, 2006 Here is a close up of the flush pan head screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 20, 2006 Author Share Posted April 20, 2006 Mark. This fad for those Sonicaps have just started rollin on. I will have to try these in the future. With the extreme slope network, the second order band pass, 3rd order tweeter filter, 4 autoformers...the total cost of the network is up there. The tweeter filter has the Solen Film and Foil caps which are more expensive as well. For me to use the Sonicaps for the ESN in the mid filter for those caps in series would have cost me some big bucks. I would have had to buy a total of eight 12 uF Sonicaps. That is $160. With my cost so far...some may laugh at my expense for this Ultimate Cornwall. I have some other networks here that I can change the primary caps to a dual 20 uF Sonicap instead of the 40 uF Solen Fast cap. I think this is what Dean put in your ALK jr for the mid cap...is that right? You have the Audiocaps for the tweeter..right? jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 JC My ALK Jrs are all audiocap thetas except the primary which is a PPMF due to large uf. I have a Scott LK-72 that was recapped by Craig with all Sonicaps. My previous amps all had auricaps and I got the urge one day and recapped it with Auricaps. Tore out all the Sonicaps. I almost could not tell the difference in sound at all. The Sonicaps and Auricaps sound almost exactly the same. I wasted money. But I asked you that because I never heard Sonicaps in a network before. I am building Al's cornwall networks and they are expensive. Not as expensive as what you are doing but even with all Sonicaps they are around $400/pr. I used Sonicaps as a compromise because all the big names are just way too high. I expect them to sound very similar to an auricap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmxfelon420 Posted April 22, 2006 Share Posted April 22, 2006 id say they look pretty good, but with me, id rather like a huge set of speakers Cant wait for more updates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 26, 2006 Author Share Posted April 26, 2006 Only auditioned a little tonight. Have the frames for the Bass bin made. Just need to wrap the cloth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meagain Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 WOW! How impressive. You should be proud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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