Metal Studs

[damonrpayne]

I have an offer of skilled and experienced slave labor to build my movie room, equipment rentals would also be free and essentially my labor cost would boil down to some beer and a cookout and materials being the only real cost. This is a group of experienced Handy-people from my brother's church.

One thing they are trying to talk me into is this odd "metal stud" idea, claiming its cheaper, faster, stronger than doing wooden studs. Assuming its as easy to work with as wood for electrical and all, should I have any acoustic concerns?

I guess I am worried about a bunch of 9' tall metal poles in my walls starting to vibrate as SPL in the room increases. This is probably a groundless concern since they'll be anchored and all. Should I be worried about this, especially if I intend to dilligently work on sound treatments for the room?

[scott0527]

There is a lot of information on Steel Framing here:

http://www.steelframingalliance.com/mc/page.do

I'm not sure if they address acoutics, I couldn't find anything. You'll be safer from termites though.

[colterphoto1]

You will get what you pay for in terms of labor.

If it's not framed right, drywall hanging might be a problem, finishing might look sloppy and you'll possibly detract from your homes value rather than add to it.

But go ahead and do it on the cheap if you want. Just be aware that I told you so just like I did with your home contractor.

Are these guys YOUR friends? Do you have personal knowledge of their experience? Are you ready to let them loose in your home with your materials without knowing their qualifications? Can they complete the entire job in a professional manner? Are they INSURED? What happens if someone gets hurt on your property? Are you sure you want people drinking and building at the same time?

Seriously.

[gaspr]

Lots of good info here www.audioalloy.com

Garth

[j-malotky]

Damon

Don't forget to have them place the studs 12" or less instead of 16". in the 4 foot corner where your Khorns are going to be placed.

In Hope, they told me that the corners of the room in the lab were solid 2x4's no gap at all.

JM

[Guest " "]

Is this for a basement?

I live in a new development of about 30 new homes. We all have an area that is about 16X26 that was not finished. the area is above ground. 2 walls are 10 inch concrete. floor is a concrete slab on piles.

Some of the folks finsihed this area using metal studs. some used lumber. The folks who used metal studs, all have cracks in their drywall now.

The only good thing I can say about metal studs is that they have pre-drilled holes for all your cabling.

[Wrench722]

If you are going to use the steel studs then use at least 5/8 rock and stud at 12" center. The wood stud can be put in at 16" center and use 1/2" rock. The wood is better for acoustics.

[Jay481985]

I thought from my little experience that steel studs is usually needed for commercial but to use in residential you need to get a permit for steel studs.

[rplace]

I did my entire basement in steel. I is way easier to transport and work with, cuts in seconds with tin snips in your location no need to go outside and use chop saw (read no saw dust). It also is wire friendly as noted earlier. I was able to do the work myself without an extra set of hands. It goes together like an erector set. All you need is tin snips and a cordless screw gun.

BTW I hung the drywall myself...never having done anything like it before in my life. I did pay to have a pro do the tape, mud and finishing. My HT and the rest of my basement is the best looking part of my house when it comes to square, plumb, lines/marks in the wall from tape, mud, etc.

I think if you do it yourself or have some "friends" help you, you will end up with better quality work then the contractors who just want to get done and paid.

[rplace]

Wire friendly

[rplace]

I used 2X4s around door frames and other heavy load areas like my rack. If you buy the righ size steel you can mix and match steel studs and wood studs in the same steel track.

Lots of glue on the drywall as it is hung and no vibration problems or cracking problems.

Steel does not warp or twist either. You will have the straightest walls possible.

[rplace]

And the end result. As you can guess I am now a big fan of steel. My neighbor did his basement in wood. As it started to warp and twist he went back and installed horizontal 2X4s between each vertical stud to try and keep that down. Then he had to drill out every stud to run wires. If you look at my first picture I have water running at the top, electrical in the middle and a PVC pipe for curent and future wires.

EDIT: BTW I used 1/2 drywal on 16 inch centers. My "other" neighbor did his basement in steel with 1/2 inch drywall and 24 inch centers. The steel tracks are pre "dented" every 8 inches so once you have the top and bottom track in it is truly mindless to put the vertical studs in. The basement is poured concrete walls and floor (no cement blocks). I have no issues with cracks in the drywall and don't see how non load bearing walls could get cracked unless there is somehting else (movement) going on with the house. We have been in the house 3.5 years and basement was done over winters 1 and 2 of that 3.5 year period.

[damonrpayne]

That is one nice looking room rplace.

[rplace]

That is one nice looking room rplace.

Thanks man! Do you like the Celebrator Goat and spray painting left for the future people who end of doing some rework?

My first house was built in 1960 and when I did some "Wall Moving" in 1995 I found all sorts of old beer cans and presents in the wall.

Have fun with your project. It really is not all that tough to do. I did about 98% of the work myself and for the most part did it alone. I did make my wife carry the drywall sheets down to the basement with me. She says she is done moving drywall in this lifetime.

[Def Leper]

Metal studs should be fine, and make a much nicer wall that the typical wood scraps that pass for studs at the local big box home improvement store. You can stuff them with blue foam insulation for extra sound absorbtion. Make sure you use panel adhesive (or the denser sound control adhesive) at every joint and the drywall interface to lock everything together tightly.

A wonderful sound control material for media rooms is Homosote, which you should be able to get at most Home Depot stores. It's a sound-deadening material in 4X8 X 1/2" sheets. Best way to use it to build floating panels covered by acoustic material. You can cut the panels in just about any way that looks good to you. Tall, vertical panels look great (2 feet wide) and can be mounted with several horizontal furring strips, 1/2" or 1" thick. This forms a trap cavity that is very effective, and you can change the look of the room by changing the covering fabric. For maxiumum sound deadening, use a solid layer of homosote under the sheetrock. The ultimate sound control is to layer as follows:

layer of homosote on back of studs

layer of homosote on front of studs

layer of sheet rock on front of homosote

floating homosote trap panels.

You can set a bomb off and not hear it in the next room. What you will hear is being transmitted through the floors and ceilings.

The only warning about homosote is that it is a ground paper/cellulose material and you should not use it in a damp basement unless you properly vapor/moisture shield the wall first and use a dehumidifer. It's also NASTY stuff to saw and very important to use a good dust mask when cutting.

[picky]

damon and all: I completely agree that Homosote is an effective product and it is very affordable. I used it to help isolate my laundry/utlity room from our theater. I was able to find it without problem in 4'x8'x1/2" sheets at Home Depot.

I have read everyone's post here and I dare not contradict all of the good things you have all written and experienced using metal studs. But, I do need to at least contribute what I have read during my research for our theater. And, Damon, you and I have discussed the research process briefly and you know that I was very thorough in my studies.

I can't back up what I am about to say with quotes and facts, guys, because I don't recall the sources, so I'm just gonna say what I recall reading. So, please don't go off on me as this is not "gospal":

I did happen to read at least two well-writen articles during the course of my room research (within the last 3 years) that told me to avoid using metal studs in rooms that were to be used for viewing media or for critical listening to music. The reason had to do with the resonance of the wall and the lack of the same density that is provided by wooden studs. It made sense to me at the time and I could find no one who could refute those claims......until now, that is. As I see several of you whom would clearly beg to differ. Trust me. You certainly know more about the performance of metal studs that do I. I only felt it was important to bring what I have read up for discussion. from a different perspective.

I did use all wooden studs and I am thrilled by the results. However, this is not to say that had I used metal studs that I would not be as pleased. I really do not know.

rplace: BTW, man: Great-looking room! -Glenn

[Joe Shmoe]

Word of caution when doing the drywall yourself & having a professional finish it.... Make sure you know all the tricks of the trade for hanging drywall, otherwise you may pay more than you want to have someone else finish it, usually they do not like to finish someone elses work... especially a DIY'er.

Just be sure to create as less seams as possible, minimize butt joints, stagger the drywall as to not have one seam running the full length of the celing or wall (this prevents cracking) And be sure to over lap doorways if possible (this also prevents cracking). Use screws instead of nails, and glue everything!

[dtel]

I don't know about where you live but here wires must be run through conduit if metal studs are used,because of the edges of the metal where the wire sits.

Might be a different code in different areas, thats why i don't like metal studs, running conduit adds alot to the cost and time.

[rplace]

I don't know about where you live but here wires must be run through conduit if metal studs are used,because of the edges of the metal where the wire sits.

Might be a different code in different areas, thats why i don't like metal studs, running conduit adds alot to the cost and time.

Code, we don't need no stinking code! Who pulls a permit for work inside a house?[6][]

They make handy, plastic, snap-in, inserts that go on either side of the pre cut holes for just that purpose. It makes a simple plastic "tunnel" so the wire does not get chafed. The cost about $2 for 100 and take maybe 5 seconds to install.

[damonrpayne]

Code, we don't need no stinking code! Who pulls a permit for work inside a house?[6][]

There's always a possibility of a problem when the houe is sold if work is done without permit and therefore inspection. Being a person of poor luck, I'll get the permits to be safe.