D-MAN Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I was considering the wiring, and my opinion is that the connectors shown on the top access panel on my horns, should be mounted on the tailboard (horizontally) and run the wire htrough the tail board/wedge assembly into the back chamber. Tie a knot on both sides (if possible) and seal the hole around the wire with silicone. You are wiring in parallel, right? I would wire the drivers with the drivers mounted so the terminals face the nearest access opening. I would also use equal lengths of wire for each driver. But that's just me! If the driver has screw-down terminals, great. If tabs, use pull-off tabs soldered to the ends of the wiring. Do not solder the wire to the driver terminals, ESPECIALLY if you are going to be changing drivers, even occasionally. Otherwise, you will be pulling the wiring out with the drivers every time (rather than attempting to unsolder them in the cabinet prior to removal). Or you could use more wire than you need, so the drivers can be pulled and then unsoldered. Or you could simply not solder the wires in the first place, and problem solved! In other words, think ahead. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted October 6, 2006 Author Share Posted October 6, 2006 Wired parallel Here is the terminal post I will be using: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-301 I was going to solder to the underside of the terminal but not to the woofer. Did you guys know that Partsexpress now has Auricaps! Ok....back to the hatch. It is funny how I didn't consider any of the options mentioned above unless I didn't understand. Goes to show my unconventional thinking. I chose a 3/4" MDF hatch. 4 T-nuts. The T-nuts on the underside of the top and bottom will be in a position where there is "open space". I think this answered your concern Mike. See the photo. Here is the underside of the bottom which I haven't screwed on yet. See the T-nut there! This has been glued and already "pulled" to the panel with one run of placing a screw real tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted October 6, 2006 Author Share Posted October 6, 2006 ,,,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted October 6, 2006 Author Share Posted October 6, 2006 ,,,,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted October 7, 2006 Author Share Posted October 7, 2006 ,,,,,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted October 7, 2006 Share Posted October 7, 2006 I share Mike's concern about not enough T-nuts. The bottom cover will be kept in place by gravity, but the top . . . ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted October 8, 2006 Share Posted October 8, 2006 Ya, definetly double up on the number of screwn down points for the access panel. You should be confident that a midget as strong as Andre the Giant shouldn't be able to punch out the panel from the inside. [] At the very least I would add too more screw down points (one centered at the bottom of the image and the other two symmetrically across each other near the non-braced corners of the home plate). Also, are those washers or T-Nuts on the access panel? It's hard to tell from the pics, but they shouldn't be T-Nuts (tightening down will cause some cross-threading action which will encourage the panels to seperate). If they're washers then don't worry bout my ramblings. Anyways, nice work. The symmetrical sides of the cabinet look perfect which is probably a pretty good sign. It's definetly far better than I would ever dream of doing myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IB Slammin Posted October 8, 2006 Share Posted October 8, 2006 IB Bumpin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted October 8, 2006 Share Posted October 8, 2006 JWC, Wow, wonderful job. Thanks for posting the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted October 8, 2006 Author Share Posted October 8, 2006 Ok. Criticism......what I wanted. I put in 6 T-nuts on the underside of the bottom of the cabinet.....no more. Now 6 screws and a 3/4 inch MDF door. Mike. Those are flat washers and lock washers under those screws. The T-nuts are on the underside of the bottom of the cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted October 8, 2006 Author Share Posted October 8, 2006 Here is a template to reproduce the door quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted October 8, 2006 Author Share Posted October 8, 2006 Now guys. I got an adrenaline rush when I stood this thing up. I think it was the first time I actually realized I was building the King. Whether it sounds like the real thing or not, it sure looks like one. Note: I don't have the bottom door on. The 3/4" door with the screws in place make just under 1" extra height. Will have to install some 1" tall feet around the edges. I only got to work on this project an hour this weekend. Hopefully during the week it will be done. However, I have to go out of town this coming weekend and won't get to test until the following week at the earliest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seti Posted October 8, 2006 Share Posted October 8, 2006 uhhhhhhhhh WoW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted October 8, 2006 Share Posted October 8, 2006 Six T-nuts are better than 4. I bet that thing weighs almost as much as the car in my avatar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 This looks like the "old" forum format! Anyway, I think you will have problems with not having enough screw attachement points on the access panels. I've hacked your picture (attached) to show what I'd do. Figure a screw down about every 4-6 linear inches. You will be mighty suprized as to how much power those driver have if you don't! Better safe than sorry. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 My cabinet already seems like it has been infected with T-nuts. As of now, there will be 28 T- Nuts in this thing. The bottom is a done deal. Can't go back to put in T-Nuts. However, I could put in some "jam" nuts. I was hoping 6 would do it as the MDF is heavier than Plywood. Placing those T-nuts in locations of Dead space is a pain. In fact...the bottom took way longer than I had imagined. I guess the top door I could place more. I guess I should order T-nuts in Bulk. Heck Home Depot here is out of the T-nuts I use....I bought them all. What do you all think of the below: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=081-1088 http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-846 jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Looks fine to me, as long as you have the appropriate security-head driver. I haven't used T-nuts at all in all these years. I use exterior-type wood screws, have to be careful about stripping which means that when tightening, you have to use a manual driver. But in your case, yes, I wouldn't mix types. Another thing, I always use 10-20 threads, never had a problem. I can't imagine what it would take for a driver to strip a 10-20 thread by force! I suppose that certain PA large-format large signal rigs could do it, but that is probably never going to happen in my house! DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 You guys win. Top with 11 holes for T-nuts. The bottom hatch will have a "foot" on it. There will also be 4 other feet on the bottom at the periphery....all 5 feet at same plane. Does anyone think the foot on the door is a bad idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 ,,,,,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 Yikes, now you're using too many [][][] As far as feet on the bottom...sounds like a recipe for a teetering speaker unless you have some method of height adjustment - and then it gets annoying to move the speaker. I always use 3 feet on every speaker I build... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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