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"Premium" Speaker Cable- - My Family's Test


easyeyes

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Mdeneen is right...Skepticism is a very valid and important part of this whole equation, especially when dealing with so much gibberish within the audio world. While we dont see eye to eye on this whole wire issue, I am all for skepticism as it breeds closer inspection and a more discerning nature.

Of course, Mdeneen's use of the word "politics" is interesting here. I am not sure what classical definition of the word he is shooting for.

kh

system one online / alternate components / asylum listing f>s>

This message has been edited by mobile homeless on 01-27-2002 at 10:08 AM

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Thanks mdeneen. I'm glad someone could clarify my generalist thoughts with the actual poop from the patent.

I think I like the part where it says, "As is well-known..." the best.

anyhoo..I would just like to add these two things:

1. The MITs really sound great

2. With respect (and condolences) to all those who may be mortally affected, I DO want to see this thread reach 6 pages.cwm30.gif

This message has been edited by cc1091 on 01-28-2002 at 12:35 AM

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Mike... Unlike quite a few others on this forum, I am actually quite fond of the original Type B crossover and it is really smooth and musical, yet still detailed and open. In fact, I am not even wanting for more detail as the 2A3 provides the most amazing detail in such an intimate fashion, it is hard to relay in words.

Although, I have to admit, I have wondered what the Jensen Copper Foil Paper in oil (or the Audio Note) caps would be like in the speaker. I just dont think you can get that size without resorting to blackmail. I think it probably would be an improvement, but I like them so much as they are, I cant imagine it. I am currently using the Jensen PIO Copper Foil caps as my coupling caps in the Moondogs. They have an amazing harmonically rich sound with a mouth-watering like roundness to the notes with no etch at all. I dont find them rolled off either. Actually, they are very open and detailed; yet as I said before, exhibit NATURAL detail. I would like to see what some top notch PIO would sound like via the CW but dont know if it's feasible.

kh

This message has been edited by mobile homeless on 01-28-2002 at 12:53 AM

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Having just connected these "as original" Cornwalls to an old Dynakit-70, I could not help notice the little screw posts on the backs of these units for connecting the speakers to the amplifier. I was immediately brought back to (not sure that I ever left) the era in which these things were made, an era which clearly assumed you hooked these up with nothing much bigger than 16 guage wire. Now that I think of it, I think I was asleep when it was determined that one needed whomongoose wire or special cables that could cost up to two grand for an 8' pair....

I guess my point is mostly, what do you do about these terminals which suggest using a more basic wire. How many Cornwall users out there have retrofitted or generally altered their equipment to accomodate larger terminal systems which these larger cable systems would need?

Exactly at what point in time did high-end audio equipment anticipate these "new" cables in their design as compared to this vintage equipment (I am using) which clearly comes from an era which apparently placed little or no importance on large guage or special cable designs?

If I were to braid a cable together as suggested in that article, would I have to retrofit the Cornwalls and the older amp to accomodate the terminals or can you get "spades" which will connect them.

How can you solder together 27 pairs of wire onto a connector small enough to screw onto the Cornwall's original terminal, or for that matter to the similar terminals on older amps?

-Ripped and vanWinkled

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You get smaller spades and/or upgrade to binding posts with more connection area. You can use the smaller screw posts with many vintage pieces which dont have the plastic ridges on either side. My EICO has the vintage screw posts and many sets of wire with the smaller scale spades work fine.

The back of the Cornwall is a problem, however. A temp solution can be to jam the spades in at an angle such as below but the contact area is actually less than ideal here, obviously. I think a good mod would be to install a pair of Cardas binding posts in place which will provide more wire contact area, a tighter connection, and an additional better connection in the interior of the speaker. These posts are extremely sturdy and you can use a driver or post wrench to tighten instead of a flat head screw that easily strips if not careful.

*Picture of EICO HF-81 Rear with Transparent Cable w/Spades

*Picture of TEMP solution with spades and Cornwall stock screw posts

But to answer your question, you can get spades that will fit with these smaller vintage design blocks. AudioQuest and a number of makers sell them. I would probably opt to upgrade the back of the CW to the Cardas 5-Way binding posts, personally. It also makes it such much easier to change wire in addition to a tighter connection with more contact area.

kh

Phono Linn LP-12 Vahalla / Linn Basic Plus / Sumiko Blue Point

CD Player Rega Planet

Preamp Cary Audio SLP-70 w/Phono Modified

Amplifier Welborne Labs 2A3 Moondog Monoblocks

Cable DIYCable Superlative / Twisted Cross Connect

Speaker 1977 Klipsch Cornwall I w/Alnico & Type B Crossover

system one online / alternate components / Asylum Listing f>s>

This message has been edited by mobile homeless on 01-28-2002 at 07:47 AM

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Does everyone's skepticism hold true for interconnects also? If so, please stay tuned for my new post in the near future, "Premium Interconnects" My family's Test II. Go ahead, I want to hear the arguments before my purchase; I might just save myself some money.

If you say that interconnects make a difference and speaker wire doesn't, why not? How many of you really connect your systems up with the rca connectors that come along with your purchase?

EE

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easyeyes,trying to start more crap,huh? :^)

There was a discussion regarding this subject in the past and from what I recall many people do use the thin/cheap factory interconnects.I personally use them for replacement laces on my work boots.The red/yellow/white RCA's are quite pretty and work well with my ear ring.

Keith

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6 pages. Thanks. And all from the frootbat Easyeyes repost of more of the same but now with interconnects... Jesus.

Hey Easyeyes, save yourself some headache and the board some eyestrain and use the garden "bootlace" ICs that came with the JVC cassette deck!

If you need any, I have about 20 pairs over here and would be happy to ship them to you!

kh

ps-They sound SUBLIME! No difference as far as I can tell! Why waste ducats on fancy wire! This stuff's for FREE and works just the same. GOD SPEED!!

pps- Did I happen to mention that Frootbats are a good thing? Especially when spelled that way...

Phono Linn LP-12 Vahalla / Linn Basic Plus / Sumiko Blue Point

CD Player Rega Planet

Preamp Cary Audio SLP-70 w/Phono Modified

Amplifier Welborne Labs 2A3 Moondog Monoblocks

Cable DIYCable Superlative / Twisted Cross Connect

Speaker 1977 Klipsch Cornwall I w/Alnico & Type B Crossover

system one online / alternate components / Asylum Listing f>s>

This message has been edited by mobile homeless on 01-28-2002 at 12:21 PM

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Mobile - Glad to see you're alive and kicking! I got worried when you grew silent as we began page 5, and was even more concerned when we hit page 6. Hope those threats to off yourself were mere musings...they were, weren't they??

LOL,

Chickey

------------------

My System

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I have to agree with Kelly on using good

quality binding posts on the Cornwalls.

From Holsten's pic, that Terminal block

looks pretty small.

You could probably use a larger terminal block,

but binding posts are probably the way to go.

Are you running the Cornwalls currently with

that wire connection, Kelly?

You only got half the spades on the terminals!

Get some posts, I replaced mine with some cheaper

Bennic posts, they are not Cardas, but clearly

superior to the stock Chorus II binding posts.

Whether it improves sound quality or not,

who cares, I would just sleep better at night,

knowing it was a better connection.

Is that solid state amp just a stand for your

Eico?

Or do you use it?

(Kinda threw me when I saw heatsinks, then I noticed

the Eico sitting on it.)

THANX!

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The adapters on the rear Eico's screw terminals are used on all my Klipsch with screw terminals. They are called GOLDEN SPEA-LUNKER Cable Adapters. They will accept banana or spade terminals, and you don't have to modify your existing speaker terminals. $29.00 a set w/reduced price for additional sets on same order.

Bought them from Paul Grzybek, a really good guy to know. Paul's well know by many tube users, he's a vintage tube gear specialist. Here's a link if your're interested: http://www.angelfire.com/biz/bizzyb/spealunker.html

Wes

------------------

"KLIPSCH IS MUSIC"f>

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Nice EICO! You did a great job! It is a latter vintage as the output transformers dont have the lips on the bell covers and the top of the power trans is silver (thought of painting that black?). Really shined up nicely inside and out, though.

You would be surprised what spades you CAN get on the EICO. I really have been able to get almost all my wire on the stock connectors. While a neat solution, it is always better to get rid of an extra connection point. I have put everything from Transparent to Kimber 8TC, to AudioQuest Type 6, to Twisted Cross-Connect, etc without a problem (all either bare wire or spades).

You do realize you have the speakers on the 4ohm taps? Not sure which Klipsch you are using this on. Did you like the 4ohm tap better?

kh

This message has been edited by mobile homeless on 01-29-2002 at 07:46 AM

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MobileHomeless/TalkToKeith

That was just my crack at humor. I'm going to purchase some new interconnects but I will not post the results on this board. I'm thoroughly convinced that some are for them and others are against them. I'm looking at the silver serpents optical and coax, what do you know about these?

Easy

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Mobile, thanks for the compliment. Wasn't aware of older vs. later vintage! I asked the seller a lot of questions and badgered for photos before committing. Plan to leave it in stock form until I decide what mods/upgrades and speaker setup to use. I agree that less connections in the signal path the better, but the adapter allows me to easily switch speakers. Been using avail wire for now, Kimber 4P(?) and IXOS. Felt the 4ohm tap provided better bass, but changed back on 8ohm before reinstalling it. Took that pic last Friday when I removed it to install match pair of Mullard Rectifiers. Are there any concerns or issues with extended use on 4ohm tap W/8ohm speakers?

The only cleaning done was with compressed air, DeXoit 5 and shining the brass faceplate. The other surfaces were wiped downed with a cotton cloth. The unit was in great condition. I prefer using w/o the rear cover, but it's in great shape too.

Got to get my Team working.

Later,

Wes

------------------

"KLIPSCH IS MUSIC"f>

This message has been edited by ShapeShifter on 01-29-2002 at 08:55 AM

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Know what you mean by wanting to keep it stock. I have two and one is stock and the other is painted satin black. I have to admit, the black unit looks like a million bucks, stock or no stock! The black makes the brass front look really stunning..and unique.

I would consider painting the top of the mains transformer black to match the outputs. I think it would increase the value of it as well since I dont recall hardly any EICOs with the silver bell top for the mains. I have seen one or two..but it always calls to mind that it is not a stock part. I believe it is, however.

I found the unit actually sounds better on the taps that match the speakers. I use the 4ohm tap when powering speakers in the 4ohm range...or speakers that dip below 4. Seems to do better at the 8ohm tap for higher impedance speakers like the Klipsch. Some amps, like the Jolida 302B, sound best on the 4ohm taps ALL the time.

You are lucky your unit was in such great shape.

kh

This message has been edited by mobile homeless on 01-29-2002 at 10:00 AM

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