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200 vs 400 watts per channel


merkin

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If the 200 Sunfire watts is not enough, then Sunfire's multichannel amps are not as impressive as many in here claim. Their reputation usually speaks for itself so 200 should be fine.

I run 200 watts across the front with Belles and can easily go to earache levels (and usually do).

Should be enough for you, even with slightly less efficient Klipsch speakers.

400 is overkill. Spend the extra money in upgrading other parts of your system.

Carl.

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I had no idea that this would have that many opions. It's like looking at a sports car and deciding if I really want/need the extra horsepower or bells and whistles. (or just be satisfied with the Yukon cause it runs good and gets me where I want to go in great comfort) There seems to be no need, maybe wants. Are these wants extravagent? Who knows. Guess I'm just a spoiled brat and I will go down and listen to it with the Denon and still enjoy it. Still sounds great, the forte's sing. But what the hey! I'll still look and ponder. USA is a great country cause I'm able to think about these things instead of worring about where the next meal is coming from.

Thank you everyone for all the input.

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You can't hear watts of anything, be they from light bulbs, amplifiers, heaters, engines, or speakers. [;)]

Unfortunately, I think that too many missed the point of the comment above.

Voltage is the force that causes the speaker to move.

Watts are an indication of how much electrical energy is converted into heat!

A speaker's 'wattage' provides an indication of its ability to dissipate electrical energy as heat before a destructive mode ensues. "Wattage" has nothing to do with fidelity or loudness/gain.

And to provide an appropriate simile that some might understand, the last I checked, the wattage of my space heater did not provide me with a meaningful indication of either its sound output nor its fidelity. And similarly, the wattage of a light bulb does not provide an indication of its light output. If this were so, I would love to hear the rationalization for an 8 watt flourescent buld putting out the same amount of light (measured in candlepower or lumens) as a 60 watt incandescent bulb!

There are many factors which contribute to fidelity and gain. Unfortunately, wattage is not one of them. What would be nice is if manufacturers and folks would publish and use/cite units in a more accurate and meaningful manner. [;)]

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Voltage is the force that causes the speaker to move.

Watts are an indication of how much electrical energy is converted into heat!

I was a fan of Yamaha AVR's until I moved my Yamaha RXV-800 into a larger room and my speakers sounded bright at higher volumes. I switched it out with a Denon AVR 3803 with similar watts-per-channel numbers and was amazed at the difference. I couldn't figure out why it was so much better so I went down the line of the specs and the 2 things that jumped out at me were that the Denon was significantly heavier and used 3 times more power than the Yamaha.

I am not a technically inclined person (when it comes to electronics) but my gut feeling was that the heavier amps in the Denon, with the high current design ran my speakers more efficiently.

I gather my novice opinion differs with your definitely more experienced one but I am still at a loss for the difference in higher volume sound quality. [:^)]

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Need more watts, lower your output impedance. On this 500 dollar ebay speacial (onkyo TX-DS989 ver2) 150 watts at 8 ohms, 160 watts at 6 ohms (one pair of LaScala's), 230 watts at 4 ohms, 300 watts at 3 ohms (2 pairs of LaScala's).

AMPLIFIER SECTION

Continuous Average Power output (FTC)

All channels: 130 watts per channel min. RMS at

8 ohms, 2 channels driven from 20

Hz to 20 kHz with no more than

0.05% total harmonic distortion.

170 watts min. RMS at 6 ohms, 2

channels driven from 1 kHz with

no more than 0.1% total harmonic

distortion.

Continuous Power output (DIN) 160 watts at 6 ohms

Maximum Power output (EIAJ) 200 watts at 6 ohms

Dynamic Power Output (Stereo) 2

? 300 watts at 3 ohms

2

? 230 watts at 4 ohms

2

? 150 watts at 8 ohms

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There are many factors which contribute to fidelity and gain. Unfortunately, wattage is not one of them. What would be nice is if manufacturers and folks would publish and use/cite units in a more accurate and meaningful manner. [;)]

By all means, suggest a few alternatives.

I totally agree with the point, but when I sat down to think of how one might achieve this I realized that it dramatically complicates the issue. The reason wattage has become the defacto standard is probably because of all the handy rules of thumb (double impedance, halve the wattage; halve the impedance, double the wattage; 3dB for every doubling of power, etc etc...). Or maybe I haven't thought about it long enough to realize a different set of easy rules to follow.

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