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Finish Care


oldtimer

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Larry, these are my latest Forte II's. The label says F II oak clr. They are lighter in color than my oak oil pair, giving an almost blonde look. It does not appear to be lacquer, but I'm not sure if it is oil or maybe a thin clear satin urethane. From the Klipsch specs:

finishes

Walnut Oil, Oak Oil, Oak Clear, Finished Black
Someone here from Klipsch must know....


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Avoid endust, if possible, there is a chemical compound in it that causes wood to expand to allow the endust to get in and "float" the dust... or so I was told. One way is to use some old english lemon or almond oil, wipe clean and wipe dry a couple times and then repeat it in 24 hours. It is not as aggressive as the endust formula.

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Now that's interesting. When I bought my original oiled oak F IIs I was told to not use anything on them except endust because it has no silicones or wax to build up. My can must date back to then (1989) so I have avoided it pretty well. I have used lemon oil on them of course, but have yet to use the magic blo/gum turpentine mix.

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Don't use ANY kind of oil on those clear laquered oak speakers! Just take a small dab of gunstock wax and polish them every once in a while. OIL will ruin the laquer finish! Do a search for keeping speaker finishes looking good, we have driven this subject into the ground numerous times on the forum.

Oil is for oiled finishes, wax is for laqured finishes, BUT you don't use just ANY wax, because some waxes are harmful to laquer finishes!

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Oldtimer,

HDBR is right and I certainly apologize for not being more clear.

In the suggestion as to why I would use the lemon oil (or endust of that matter), it would only be on a pair of old (at least 15-20 years) laquered speakers where that very thin factory laquer coat has deteriorated to the point where it's of little value in protecting the wood. This is usually when you are not the original owner, and they were exposed to sunlight, had improper care or no care... The "indicator" is a "hazy" or "matte" appearance, either overall or in particular on the tops.

Assuming yours are in nice condition, then "gunstock" wax, or (don't laugh!!!) a high quality, non abrasive, carnauba based automotive wax for laquer paints (Meguiar's comes to mind) also works fine.

Over the years, I've been able to "rescue" a couple pairs of severely deteriorated laquer Heresy's, and recently a pair of laquered Cornwalls using an oil based rubbing. Since the laquer had completely dried out and was breaking up, there was no loss in the effort. They are now, in effect, "oiled" finish. They were, however, in otherwise good condition with no unreasonable scratches, etc. The only other method on a pair with stains, hazy spots, scratches, etc is, of course, to refinish with very, very light sanding, fresh coat of #40 sheen clear laquer, some type of semi-gloss, etc. That's, of course, another whole subject.

On the oiled finishes, there are probably as many "secret solutions" as there are members!!!LOL. Each has their "favorite". All are good, some better, some maybe not. As long as there is some coating that protects the wood fibers from moisture and UV, then that's good.

Again, sorry for the confusion! That's what happens when the kids are climbing all over you, phone's ringing, and it's time for supper, etc.!!

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Assuming yours are in nice condition, then "gunstock" wax, or (don't laugh!!!) a high quality, non abrasive, carnauba based automotive wax for laquer paints (Meguiar's comes to mind) also works fine.

I suggest you see what the gunstock wax does in an out-of-the-way place. I tried a "wood soap" on my 45-yr-old lacquer mahogany's, found that it increased the contrast too much and lost some of the beauty. While I'm sure the wax has a fundamentally different action, it might be worth it to be a little cautious on an older lacquer.
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