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Good soldering iron?


White_Hawk

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Boy, you can easily get caught up with this...How much money do you want to spend?!

For general use I have always liked th Weller WCC 100 (and similar) models.

Unless you need it (and from your stated purpose, you do not) don't get causght up with ESL ratings and other features that you donot need..

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I use an old Weller Station I've had for over 20 years now. It was about the best available when I bought it. $135 if I remember correctly. I bought this one the day the shuttle "Challenger" exploded. The Weller has been a great unit with minimal maintenance over the years. I worked bench repair for a couple of large repair centers and this has been used (and abused) extensively.

I also use a Weller 40w pencil type at times. $12.00

I'm sure there are other good models to choose from in the $50 - $150 range. Get a good variable heat unit with enough power to heat fast so you don't damage components to be soldered.

Occasionally you will need parts and availability is something to be considered for future use. Weller parts have always been available.

Once you get started soldering you'll probably start doing other projects.

Keep a couple of extra tips around for back up.

Harry

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Thanks for the responses =)

mas - probably not too much right now. Less than $100 would be ideal at this point, maybe I could get some nicer station in a year or so...

Would this station be enough for my needs/be reliable?

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-Soldering-Station-WLC100-120V/dp/B000ICEMYA/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1196851412&sr=8-1

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I have a small GC Electronics iron. At least it is sold under their name. Variable temp setting with a thermostat, so that the tip temp stays pretty constant. Touch it to something big and the temp drops, and more current goes to the tip so the temp comes back up. I got it when my brother in law's business folded. It was only about $100, and I have been using it for a good 17 years +.

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And don't forget patience ... be patient, it will heat up and the solder will flow.... That's my biggest problem, having the patience to wait for the joint to heat up. Ordered the Weller WLC100 last night. Figured it's time to step up from my simple Radio Shack pencil type soldering iron with no control - just a soldering iron with a cord coming out the end.

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seti, you'll be happy with that Hakko 936, I have that set-up as well. Bulletproof little bugger.

Cool thanks that is good to know. Someone on the audio asylum recommended it too me. It is silly for me not to know how to solder as there have been so many times where I just needed the basic soldering skills.

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Your iron and the work will tell you. The joint or cable shouldn't take too long to heat up, other wise you may do damage to surrounding components, or PCB if that applies (you get the dreaded measling, or checking of the PCB glass, and pads & etches start lifting). Power supply caps and heavy guage wire can be difficult because the components sink the heat and don't allow the joint (or cable) to heat up effectively. That's why you need an adequate iron to solder the bigger stuff, preferably with temp control. It's also nice to have a variety of tips, bigger tips for bigger jobs, and vice versa.

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White_Hawk,

I have a Hakko Model 936. There are also plenty of tip styles and accessories to choose from for this model. I recenty soldered 12 gauge wire with it while working on a speaker crossover with no problem. I do not know about much larger wire. But it gets plenty hot.

Mostly, I am responding to say that whatever model you choose and there are many good ones to choose from as mentioned already, search on the internet under soldering skills to gain technique knowledge. There are many basic fundamentals and little tricks that are good to know to prevent component burning, good solder flow and how to unsolder. Maybe soldering skills could be its own thread. Don't inhale the fumes.

Enjoy,

Wrinkles

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1 more question - what type of solder is best for working with electronics? I've heard 63Sn/37Pb is easier to use than 60/40 because it has the 1 melting point of 361F verses the range that 60-40 has of 361-374 where you have the "plastic" stage where the solder must be kept still less you get cracks in the joint... I believe the 63/37 is called eutectic solder?

Would there be any reason to not get a eutectic solder - or is there a better one for soldering cables with for audio use?

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Hakko makes some nice irons...my lab partner recently purchased one and it has been my new iron of preference over the weller stations. But really, the value of a soldering iron is in the quality of the tip...the only advantage to the nicer irons is they heat up faster and maintain a more constant temp.

Before soldering something you plan to keep or don't want to break, try some practice soldering first. Connectors are probably one of the harder things to solder, until you start doing 10 mil pitch surface mount chips...

As far as solder, go with the eutectic stuff and make sure it has flux in it too (most all of it does nowadays). The fumes will be more potent, but it'll be way easier to use.

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And don't forget patience ... be patient, it will heat up and the solder will flow.... That's my biggest problem, having the patience to wait for the joint to heat up. Ordered the Weller WLC100 last night. Figured it's time to step up from my simple Radio Shack pencil type soldering iron with no control - just a soldering iron with a cord coming out the end.

Are you tinning the tip of the iron? The tips for the radio shack pencils get worn out pretty fast, which I totally didn't realize until stepping up to some nicer irons. I still use the ratshack pencils at home, but always with a pair of wire cutters. Basically, I just trim down the tip before I use it to get all the oxidation off - and so that it will tin properly.

The heat transfer should be almost instant, unless you're soldering to something that can dissipate the heat quickly (in which case you should be using more heat).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Josh,

If you have not purchased an iron yet....I ran across a Hakko 936 at http://www.kiesub.com/prostores/servlet/Detail?no=3.

I am not affiliated with this company and I have never done business with them, but for $69.95 for this iron anyone that needs one may want to consider one at this price. Other irons are relatively inexpensive at that website as well.

I paid $18.00 more for 936 2 years ago.

Merry Christmas,

Wrinkles

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